Cultural influences · SS27
Who borrowed from whom
Every pairing of a house and a tradition from outside the country it is based in: who drew on it, what they took, and the look that shows it.
Where each look stands
1102 looks that drew on a tradition, by how the tradition relates to the house- From another region 389
- From a neighbouring country 135
- Home tradition or own region 472
- Can't tell 146
From another region
110 pairings, most looks first
Japan → ScotlandAnother region
26 looks · 8 houses · tartan / kilt
Kei Ninomiya · Kidill · Comme Des Garçons Homme Plus · Auralee · Junko Shimada and 3 more
“Knee-length pleated wool wrap skirt in green, navy and purple tartan, worn as menswear kilt; reworked with punk safety-pin clusters along pleats.”
France → JapanAnother region
23 looks · 8 houses · tabi, kimono / obi brocade, kimono
Givenchy · Maison Margiela · Kenzo · Dior · Isabel Marant and 3 more
“White calf-high boots with a clearly split toe separating the big toe, the defining feature of Japanese jika-tabi, reworked as painted leather boots.”
Italy → JapanAnother region
18 looks · 7 houses · haori, kimono, tabi
Giorgio Armani · Alberta Ferretti · Capasa Milano Shoes Collection · Act N°1 · Emporio Armani and 2 more
“Visible split-toe construction separating the big toe from the other toes, derived from Japanese jika-tabi, reworked as black suede knee-high heeled boots with side zip.”
Italy → IndiaAnother region
15 looks · 8 houses · kashmir shawl / pashmina, kolhapuri chappal, hand block print
Loro Piana · LA Doublej · Etro · Alanui · Amato Daniele and 3 more
“Repeated Devanagari Om (ॐ) glyph set inside radiating sunburst medallions on front panels and hem, knitted in tan-on-cream jacquard.”
United States → ScotlandAnother region
15 looks · 4 houses · tartan / kilt, highland argyll jacket
Ralph Lauren · Anna Sui · Thom Browne · Tanner Fletcher
“Dark green/navy sett with yellow and red overchecks, Black Watch/Gordon-style tartan worn head-to-toe; frayed selvedge hems on trousers evoke woven wool tartan cloth.”
Denmark → IndiaAnother region
15 looks · 3 houses · hand block print, mughal floral, zardozi
La Bagatelle* · The Garment · The Royal Danish Academy
“Repeated small floral buta stamps in staggered rows with slight registration irregularities and an indigo-teal ground, typical of Indian hand block printing.”
Germany → ChinaAnother region
13 looks · 4 houses · pankou / frog closures, qipao / cheongsam, tang jacket
William Fan · Ottolinger · Kallmeyer · Dagger*
“Four horizontal knotted cord closures in matching black, evenly spaced down the centre front, fastening edge-to-edge in the manner of Chinese pankou.”
Italy → Central Asian (unspecified)Another region
13 looks · 3 houses · adras / atlas ikat, ikat / patola
Emporio Armani · Etro · Loro Piana
“Large blurred-edge abstract motifs with feathered, streaky warp-direction outlines typical of ikat; neutral grey-cream palette; could also read as Indian or Southeast Asian ikat.”
Denmark → ChinaAnother region
10 looks · 6 houses · pankou / frog closures, chinese silk brocade, tang jacket
The Garment · Mr. Larkin* · By Malene Birger · La Bagatelle* · Taus* and 1 more
“Four knotted cord frog fastenings in self-fabric down a centre-front slit opening, a traditional Chinese knot-button closure, set on a tailored white jacket.”
United States → IndiaAnother region
9 looks · 3 houses · bindi, zardozi, lehenga / ghagra choli
Cucculelli Shaheen · Prabal Gurung · Altuzarra
“Red teardrop-shaped mark centred on the forehead between the brows, a stylised bindi form. Applied as runway makeup, not a traditional dot.”
Italy → MoroccoAnother region
8 looks · 4 houses · babouche, sfifa braid trim, gandoura / jabador
Capasa Milano Shoes Collection · Giorgio Armani · Emporio Armani · Fendi
“Scrolling corded passementerie braid running down the centre front opening and around the standing collar, as in Moroccan sfifa trim on caftans and jabadors.”
Italy → ChinaAnother region
7 looks · 3 houses · pankou / frog closures, tang jacket, chinese silk brocade
Giorgio Armani · Act N°1 · Amato Daniele
“Horizontal fabric knot-and-loop fastenings set down the centre front in place of buttonholes, the characteristic Chinese pankou closure, done tone-on-tone in black.”
Italy → Native American (unspecified)Another region
7 looks · 2 houses · navajo / dine weaving pattern, beadwork, turquoise and silver jewellery
“Jacquard knit with stepped serrated diamonds, arrow forms and Greek-key bands in red, cream, tan and charcoal, recalling Southwestern/Diné-style or Pendleton trade-blanket patterning.”
Belgium → AndeanAnother region
7 looks · 1 house · alpaca / andean knit, chullo / andean knit hat
“Burgundy knit hat with small geometric diamond jacquard band and long hanging braided-cord earflap ties in blue patterned knit, characteristic of the Andean chullo construction.”
Belgium → IndiaAnother region
7 looks · 1 house · zardozi
“Raised gold metallic-thread embroidery with padded, coiled couching and dangling gold threads forming a large buta-like motif on black wool skirt.”
Lebanon → IndiaAnother region
7 looks · 1 house · maang tikka, kundan / polki, zardozi
“Small jewelled pendant sits at the centre-part hairline on the forehead, worn as a maang tikka.”
Nigeria → MoroccoAnother region
7 looks · 1 house · sfifa braid trim, gandoura / jabador, moroccan aakad / tassel passementerie
“Collarless V-slit neckline with tonal braided trim, a long centre-front placket of small passementerie buttons, and loose wide sleeves typical of Moroccan jabador/gandoura tunics; shortened over shorts.”
Nigeria → ChinaAnother region
6 looks · 3 houses · pankou / frog closures, tang jacket
Bakusoraya* · Pettre Taylor* · Pillz N Poizn*
“Four knotted cord frog fastenings in pink running down the centre front of the jacket, reworked in a pastel colourway.”
United States → SpainAnother region
5 looks · 3 houses · manton de manila, traje de flamenca, lunares polka dots
Carolina Herrera · Ulla Johnson · Anna Sui
“Cream silk with tone-on-tone floral embroidery, hand-knotted macramé lattice border (reja) and long silk fringe, the hallmarks of the manton de manila shawl, recut into top and skirt.”
Denmark → JapanAnother region
4 looks · 3 houses · hakama, kasuri, origami paper folding
The Royal Danish Academy · La Bagatelle* · Scandinavian Academy of Fashion Design
“Indigo ground with scattered small white cross/igeta-like marks and red dashes with blurred, feathered edges typical of kasuri weft ikat; Indian cotton ikat also possible.”
United Kingdom → JapanAnother region
4 looks · 3 houses · tabi, haori, origami crane (orizuru)
Chopova Lowena · Robert Wun · Temperley London
“White face piece shaped as a folded paper crane: crisp creased planes, pointed wings, upright folded neck and tail, the classic orizuru form, rendered rigid and enlarged.”
Denmark → South Asian (unspecified)Another region
4 looks · 2 houses · ikat / patola
“Turquoise cotton with feathered, blurred-edge white-and-blue diamond/flame motifs typical of resist-dyed ikat; likely Indian handloom ikat, though Central or Southeast Asian ikat also possible.”
Japan → SpainAnother region
4 looks · 2 houses · traje de flamenca, cordobes hat, espadrille / alpargata
Junya Watanabe Man · Junko Shimada
“Body-hugging lace skirt to the knee flaring abruptly into stacked tiered volantes (ruffles) with velvet bands, the classic flamenca mermaid silhouette, reworked in black tulle with sportswear top.”
South Africa → JapanAnother region
4 looks · 2 houses · kimono, obi, noragi / samue workwear
Imprint South Africa · Dennis Chuene
“Straight-cut wrap robe with crossed V-neck collar band in contrasting orange, wide rectangular sleeves, knee length rather than full length.”
United Kingdom → West African (unspecified)Another region
4 looks · 1 house · cowrie shells, gele
“Dense openwork net of cowrie shells strung on dark cord, forming a full face-and-head covering hood with long cord ties; cowrie adornment widespread across West Africa.”
France → IndiaAnother region
3 looks · 3 houses · banarasi brocade, sari drape, zardozi
Alexis Mabille · Dior · Franck Sorbier
“Gold lamé panel falls diagonally from the shoulder across the torso and gathers at the hip over a long column, recalling a sari pallu. It is also readable as a generic Grecian drape.”
Italy → South Asian (unspecified)Another region
3 looks · 3 houses · ikat / patola, kurta, salwar / shalwar kameez
Emporio Armani · Fendi · Moschino
“Woven upper with blurred, feathered-edge grey chevron and flame shapes typical of warp-resist ikat; could equally be Central Asian or Southeast Asian ikat.”
Nigeria → JapanAnother region
3 looks · 3 houses · kimono, shibori, tabi
Dust OF The Earth* · Geometric Motion* · Studio Namnyak*
“Burgundy leather loafers with a distinct split-toe separating the big toe, the defining tabi form, reworked as a chain-trim loafer.”
Denmark → Central Asian (unspecified)Another region
3 looks · 2 houses · adras / atlas ikat, ikat / patola
“Pink-and-white feathered diamond/lozenge ikat pattern with blurred edges, resembling Uzbek adras; could also read as Indian or Southeast Asian ikat. Likely printed rather than woven.”
Italy → Diné (Navajo)Another region
3 looks · 2 houses · navajo / dine weaving pattern, turquoise and silver jewellery
“Concho belt: series of oval stamped silver-tone conchos with scalloped edges, scroll repoussé motifs and turquoise centres on a leather strap, plus a matching oval concho buckle.”
Italy → East Asian (unspecified)Another region
3 looks · 2 houses · chinese silk brocade, cloud scroll motif, crossed-collar wrap top
“Narrow band collar crossing diagonally at the throat over a wrapped front panel. Recalls Korean jeogori, Chinese hanfu jiaoling or kimono collar; the exact source is ambiguous.”
Japan → MexicoAnother region
3 looks · 2 houses · lucha libre mask motif, baja / jerga hoodie
Yukihero Pro-Wrestling* · Ancellm*
“Two chest patches show stylised wrestling masks with contrasting eye and mouth outlines and decorative trim, characteristic of Mexican lucha libre masks, rendered as appliqué.”
United States → East Asian (unspecified)Another region
3 looks · 1 house · crane and pine motif, pine and crane motif, tiger motif (east asian ink painting)
“Embroidered gnarled pine branches paired with flying cranes, the classic longevity pairing of Chinese and Japanese painting and textiles, rendered on a knit cardigan.”
United States → MexicoAnother region
3 looks · 1 house · chicano / cholo styling, greca / mesoamerican stepped fret, mesoamerican greca / stepped fret
“Red-on-white stepped-fret meander band on the collar and sleeve cuffs, recalling Mesoamerican greca fretwork (Mitla type). Paired with green-white-red Mexican kit colours.”
South Africa → West African (unspecified)Another region
3 looks · 1 house · ankara / wax print, agbada, kufi
“Bold graphic cotton print with saturated red, blue, black and white blocks, chevrons and stripes in wax-print style colour layout, reworked as patchwork-like panels.”
France → East Asian (unspecified)Another region
2 looks · 2 houses · chinese silk brocade, silk satin floral embroidery
“Dense satin-stitch flowers on lustrous gold silk satin, recalling Japanese kimono or Chinese silk embroidery; could be print, Japanese or Chinese source uncertain.”
Italy → Middle Eastern (unspecified)Another region
2 looks · 2 houses · fez / tarboosh, kilim / persian carpet motif
“Brimless, flat-topped, slightly tapered cylindrical cap with possible small tassel tab at side; reworked in glossy satin. Could read as Ottoman/Moroccan fez or a kufi-style cap.”
Japan → Native American (unspecified)Another region
2 looks · 2 houses · beadwork, navajo / dine weaving pattern
“Chest yoke of strung beads in horizontal bands with vertical bead strands ending in long fringe, recalling Plains beaded and hair-pipe breastplate yokes.”
Mexico → JapanAnother region
2 looks · 2 houses · hinomaru / rising sun motif, tabi
Efecto Perfecto* · Nin Studio*
“Black low shoes with a visible split separating the big toe from the other toes, the defining tabi feature, reworked as a soled shoe.”
United States → ChinaAnother region
2 looks · 2 houses · dragon / phoenix motif, gold metallic-thread embroidery, pankou / frog closures
“Embroidered sinuous dragons with whiskered heads amid gold auspicious cloud scrolls (xiangyun), rendered on a Western trucker-style black jacket.”
United States → JapanAnother region
2 looks · 2 houses · kimono / obi brocade, tabi
“Gold metallic-weft brocade on cream ground with stylised clouds, waves and blossom sprays in a scattered landscape layout like obi kinran; Chinese silk brocade also possible.”
Germany → IndiaAnother region
2 looks · 1 house · bindi, lehenga / ghagra choli, sari
“Sheer pale-blue length of cloth with wide contrasting navy embroidered border, draped from waist over shoulder as pallu in classic nivi manner.”
France → MoroccoAnother region
2 looks · 1 house · gandoura / jabador, sfifa braid trim
“Collarless deep V-slit neckline edged in tonal braid, loose hip-length tunic with tone-on-tone embroidered chest panel, as on a Moroccan jabador top worn with trousers.”
United Kingdom → AndeanAnother region
2 looks · 1 house · alpaca / andean knit
“Chunky hooded zip cardigan with irregular horizontal stripes and embroidered star-flowers, close to Ecuadorian/Andean souvenir knit jackets. Reworked in a greyscale palette.”
Japan → Southeast Asian (unspecified)Another region
2 looks · 1 house · non la conical hat
“Wide, shallow conical hat in tightly woven pale straw. Reads as Vietnamese non la, though Chinese douli or Japanese sugegasa forms are similar. Rendered in a refined woven texture.”
South Korea → European (unspecified)Another region
2 looks · 1 house · eastern european folk woven bands, folk waistcoat with ornamental clasps
“Burgundy fitted vest fastened with rows of ornate silver filigree hook clasps, recalling Central/Eastern European folk waistcoats (Hungarian, Balkan, Slavic alternatives).”
Nigeria → Middle Eastern (unspecified)Another region
2 looks · 1 house · thobe / dishdasha
“Ankle-length straight cream cotton robe with long sleeves and a half-placket button front. Equally readable as a West African kaftan/jalabiya; reworked with contrast stitching.”
United States → AustriaAnother region
2 looks · 1 house · dirndl / tracht, trachten jacket / janker
“Short boxy jacket with contrasting black velvet-look collar and lapels embroidered with small flowers, plus black welt pocket trims, recalling Alpine trachten jackets.”
United States → First Nations (unspecified)Another region
2 looks · 1 house · cowichan sweater
“Bulky hand-knit-look cardigan with wide shawl collar, cream figurative motifs on navy ground, and banded patterning at sleeves, typical of Coast Salish Cowichan sweaters. Navy colourway departs from natural tones.”
South Africa → MaliAnother region
2 looks · 1 house · bogolan / mudcloth
“Rust-brown, black and white blocky geometric patterning with hatched bands and dashes, typical of bogolan mudcloth layouts, printed rather than mud-dyed.”
Belgium → MexicoAnother region
1 look · 1 house · charro / sombrero
“Waist-length cropped jacket with rows of silver studs along the fronts and scrolling soutache braid on the sleeves, like a charro jacket. A Spanish Andalusian chaquetilla is an alternative reading.”
Belgium → South Asian (unspecified)Another region
1 look · 1 house · zardozi
“Raised, padded gold metal-thread and coiled wire embroidery in dense floral and scroll motifs on black wool; could also draw on Chinese or Ottoman goldwork.”
Brazil → European (unspecified)Another region
1 look · 1 house · folk cross-stitch panel
Foz*
“Square counted cross-stitch panel, red and black on cream, symmetrical rosette with stylised floral sprigs; resembles Eastern European or Iberian folk cross-stitch, also Palestinian tatreez.”
Brazil → JapanAnother region
1 look · 1 house · kimono, obi
“Long straight-cut wrap coat with left-over-right crossed front, closed by a wide sash at the waist; given a shirt collar and patchwork panels.”
By where the house is based
Looks drawing on another country's tradition, and the traditions drawn on most
- Italy139 looks · 27 houses
Japan (18) · India (15) · Ecuador (15) · Central Asian (unspecified) (13)
- France75 looks · 21 houses
Japan (23) · Scotland (17) · China (17) · Spain (7)
- Japan56 looks · 24 houses
Scotland (26) · China (13) · Spain (4) · Mexico (3)
- Denmark52 looks · 16 houses
India (15) · China (10) · Scotland (9) · Spain (5)
- United States50 looks · 16 houses
Scotland (15) · India (9) · Ghana (6) · Spain (5)
- Nigeria29 looks · 14 houses
Morocco (7) · China (6) · Japan (3) · Mali (3)
- Germany25 looks · 9 houses
China (13) · Spain (5) · Austria (2) · Japan (2)
- Belgium24 looks · 3 houses
Scotland (8) · Andean (7) · India (7) · Austria (1)
- United Kingdom20 looks · 9 houses
West African (unspecified) (4) · Japan (4) · Spain (3) · Andean (2)
- South Africa9 looks · 2 houses
Japan (4) · West African (unspecified) (3) · Mali (2) · Fulani (1)
- Lebanon8 looks · 2 houses
India (7) · China (1)
- Côte d’Ivoire5 looks · 1 house
Fulani (2) · Yoruba (2) · Ghana (1) · South Asian (unspecified) (1)
- Mexico5 looks · 4 houses
Japan (2) · China (1) · Korea (1) · Spain (1)
- South Korea5 looks · 1 house
European (unspecified) (2) · Austria (1) · Japan (1) · Russia (1)
- Brazil4 looks · 3 houses
China (1) · European (unspecified) (1) · Japan (1) · Palestine (1)
- China3 looks · 3 houses
Japan (3)
- India3 looks · 2 houses
Cambodia (1) · Scotland (1) · Spain (1)
- Sweden2 looks · 2 houses
Austria (1) · Korea (1)
- Netherlands2 looks · 2 houses
Japan (1) · West African (unspecified) (1)
- Ghana2 looks · 1 house
Yoruba (2)
By tradition
Looks by houses based elsewhere, and where those houses are based
- Scotland91 looks · 9 countries
Japan (26) · France (17) · United States (15) · Italy (13)
- China72 looks · 11 countries
France (17) · Japan (13) · Germany (13) · Denmark (10)
- Japan68 looks · 13 countries
France (23) · Italy (18) · Denmark (4) · United Kingdom (4)
- India59 looks · 8 countries
Denmark (15) · Italy (15) · United States (9) · Lebanon (7)
- Spain39 looks · 12 countries
France (7) · Denmark (5) · Germany (5) · Italy (5)
- Morocco17 looks · 3 countries
Italy (8) · Nigeria (7) · France (2)
- Ecuador16 looks · 2 countries
Italy (15) · United Kingdom (1)
- Central Asian (unspecified)16 looks · 2 countries
Italy (13) · Denmark (3)
- South Asian (unspecified)13 looks · 8 countries
Denmark (4) · Italy (3) · Germany (1) · France (1)
- Austria12 looks · 7 countries
Italy (4) · Germany (2) · United States (2) · France (1)
- West African (unspecified)11 looks · 6 countries
United Kingdom (4) · South Africa (3) · France (1) · Italy (1)
- Native American (unspecified)10 looks · 3 countries
Italy (7) · Japan (2) · United Kingdom (1)
- East Asian (unspecified)10 looks · 5 countries
Italy (3) · United States (3) · France (2) · Denmark (1)
- Andean10 looks · 3 countries
Belgium (7) · United Kingdom (2) · Italy (1)
- Ghana9 looks · 3 countries
United States (6) · Nigeria (2) · Côte d’Ivoire (1)
- Mexico8 looks · 4 countries
Japan (3) · United States (3) · Belgium (1) · France (1)
- Middle Eastern (unspecified)6 looks · 4 countries
Italy (2) · Nigeria (2) · Denmark (1) · United Kingdom (1)
- Yoruba5 looks · 3 countries
Côte d’Ivoire (2) · Ghana (2) · Denmark (1)
- Germany5 looks · 3 countries
Denmark (2) · United Kingdom (2) · Italy (1)
- Greece5 looks · 1 country
Italy (5)
How each look is placed
- Another region From another region
- Neighbouring From a neighbouring country
- Home tradition The house's own tradition
- Own region From the house's own region
- Can't tell Indigenous tradition, on the house's home ground
- Base unknown House base not recorded
* Base inferred from the national fashion week the house shows at; the house has no recorded base.
How we read it
Read from the runway photographs by our AI tagger: an element counts when it is recognisably drawn from a specific dress or craft tradition and the tagger is at least 60% confident. It describes the clothes only, never the person wearing them, and it is not a statement by the house.
A look is borrowed when the house that showed it is based outside the country the tradition comes from. We compare the house's base (recorded, or inferred from the one national fashion week it shows at) with the tradition the tagger named. Traditions the tagger could only place by region, such as “West African”, count as borrowed only when the house is based outside that region. For Indigenous traditions a house based on the same territory may or may not belong to the community, so those looks are marked “can’t tell”. A house’s base says nothing about its designers’ own heritage, and borrowing is not a verdict: it can be collaboration, homage or appropriation, which the photographs can’t show.