Cultural influences · SS27
Who borrowed from whom
Every pairing of a house and a tradition from outside the country it is based in: who drew on it, what they took, and the look that shows it.
Where each look stands
1102 looks that drew on a tradition, by how the tradition relates to the house- From another region 389
- From a neighbouring country 135
- Home tradition or own region 472
- Can't tell 146
Houses based in Denmark
11 pairings, most looks first
Denmark → IndiaAnother region
15 looks · 3 houses · hand block print, mughal floral, zardozi
La Bagatelle* · The Garment · The Royal Danish Academy
“Repeated small floral buta stamps in staggered rows with slight registration irregularities and an indigo-teal ground, typical of Indian hand block printing.”
Denmark → ChinaAnother region
10 looks · 6 houses · pankou / frog closures, chinese silk brocade, tang jacket
The Garment · Mr. Larkin* · By Malene Birger · La Bagatelle* · Taus* and 1 more
“Four knotted cord frog fastenings in self-fabric down a centre-front slit opening, a traditional Chinese knot-button closure, set on a tailored white jacket.”
Denmark → ScotlandNeighbouring
9 looks · 4 houses · tartan / kilt, tam o'shanter
Henrik Vibskov · MKDT Studio* · Anne Sofie Madsen · Stem*
“Navy and dark green sett with thin red and white overcheck lines, in the manner of Black Watch-style tartan, rendered as printed or knitted hosiery.”
Denmark → SpainNeighbouring
5 looks · 3 houses · campero boots, manton de manila, traje de flamenca
La Bagatelle* · OpéraSport* · Sson*
“Tall dark brown leather riding boots with contrasting lighter top band and tasselled side pulls, characteristic of Spanish botas camperas.”
Denmark → JapanAnother region
4 looks · 3 houses · hakama, kasuri, origami paper folding
The Royal Danish Academy · La Bagatelle* · Scandinavian Academy of Fashion Design
“Indigo ground with scattered small white cross/igeta-like marks and red dashes with blurred, feathered edges typical of kasuri weft ikat; Indian cotton ikat also possible.”
Denmark → South Asian (unspecified)Another region
4 looks · 2 houses · ikat / patola
“Turquoise cotton with feathered, blurred-edge white-and-blue diamond/flame motifs typical of resist-dyed ikat; likely Indian handloom ikat, though Central or Southeast Asian ikat also possible.”
Denmark → Central Asian (unspecified)Another region
3 looks · 2 houses · adras / atlas ikat, ikat / patola
“Pink-and-white feathered diamond/lozenge ikat pattern with blurred edges, resembling Uzbek adras; could also read as Indian or Southeast Asian ikat. Likely printed rather than woven.”
Denmark → GermanyNeighbouring
2 looks · 1 house · dirndl / tracht
“Fitted square-neck bodice with criss-cross front lacing over a contrasting underlayer, full gathered skirt and a ribbon tied at the waist like a dirndl apron bow. Alpine dirndl tradition spans Germany and Austria.”
Denmark → East Asian (unspecified)Another region
1 look · 1 house · folded paper lucky stars
“Dozens of small puffed five-point paper stars clustered on the skirt front, the classic folded lucky-star form made from paper strips; Chinese/Japanese/Korean craft, origin unclear.”
Denmark → Middle Eastern (unspecified)Another region
1 look · 1 house · belly-dance hip scarf
“Triangular scarf knotted low on the hip over a skirt, with a heavy beaded border, dense bead fringe and metallic beaded teardrop appliqués, as on raqs sharqi hip scarves.”
By where the house is based
Looks drawing on another country's tradition, and the traditions drawn on most
- Italy139 looks · 27 houses
Japan (18) · India (15) · Ecuador (15) · Central Asian (unspecified) (13)
- France75 looks · 21 houses
Japan (23) · Scotland (17) · China (17) · Spain (7)
- Japan56 looks · 24 houses
Scotland (26) · China (13) · Spain (4) · Mexico (3)
- Denmark52 looks · 16 houses
India (15) · China (10) · Scotland (9) · Spain (5)
- United States50 looks · 16 houses
Scotland (15) · India (9) · Ghana (6) · Spain (5)
- Nigeria29 looks · 14 houses
Morocco (7) · China (6) · Japan (3) · Mali (3)
- Germany25 looks · 9 houses
China (13) · Spain (5) · Austria (2) · Japan (2)
- Belgium24 looks · 3 houses
Scotland (8) · Andean (7) · India (7) · Austria (1)
- United Kingdom20 looks · 9 houses
West African (unspecified) (4) · Japan (4) · Spain (3) · Andean (2)
- South Africa9 looks · 2 houses
Japan (4) · West African (unspecified) (3) · Mali (2) · Fulani (1)
- Lebanon8 looks · 2 houses
India (7) · China (1)
- Côte d’Ivoire5 looks · 1 house
Fulani (2) · Yoruba (2) · Ghana (1) · South Asian (unspecified) (1)
- Mexico5 looks · 4 houses
Japan (2) · China (1) · Korea (1) · Spain (1)
- South Korea5 looks · 1 house
European (unspecified) (2) · Austria (1) · Japan (1) · Russia (1)
- Brazil4 looks · 3 houses
China (1) · European (unspecified) (1) · Japan (1) · Palestine (1)
- China3 looks · 3 houses
Japan (3)
- India3 looks · 2 houses
Cambodia (1) · Scotland (1) · Spain (1)
- Sweden2 looks · 2 houses
Austria (1) · Korea (1)
- Netherlands2 looks · 2 houses
Japan (1) · West African (unspecified) (1)
- Ghana2 looks · 1 house
Yoruba (2)
By tradition
Looks by houses based elsewhere, and where those houses are based
- Scotland91 looks · 9 countries
Japan (26) · France (17) · United States (15) · Italy (13)
- China72 looks · 11 countries
France (17) · Japan (13) · Germany (13) · Denmark (10)
- Japan68 looks · 13 countries
France (23) · Italy (18) · Denmark (4) · United Kingdom (4)
- India59 looks · 8 countries
Denmark (15) · Italy (15) · United States (9) · Lebanon (7)
- Spain39 looks · 12 countries
France (7) · Denmark (5) · Germany (5) · Italy (5)
- Morocco17 looks · 3 countries
Italy (8) · Nigeria (7) · France (2)
- Ecuador16 looks · 2 countries
Italy (15) · United Kingdom (1)
- Central Asian (unspecified)16 looks · 2 countries
Italy (13) · Denmark (3)
- South Asian (unspecified)13 looks · 8 countries
Denmark (4) · Italy (3) · Germany (1) · France (1)
- Austria12 looks · 7 countries
Italy (4) · Germany (2) · United States (2) · France (1)
- West African (unspecified)11 looks · 6 countries
United Kingdom (4) · South Africa (3) · France (1) · Italy (1)
- Native American (unspecified)10 looks · 3 countries
Italy (7) · Japan (2) · United Kingdom (1)
- East Asian (unspecified)10 looks · 5 countries
Italy (3) · United States (3) · France (2) · Denmark (1)
- Andean10 looks · 3 countries
Belgium (7) · United Kingdom (2) · Italy (1)
- Ghana9 looks · 3 countries
United States (6) · Nigeria (2) · Côte d’Ivoire (1)
- Mexico8 looks · 4 countries
Japan (3) · United States (3) · Belgium (1) · France (1)
- Middle Eastern (unspecified)6 looks · 4 countries
Italy (2) · Nigeria (2) · Denmark (1) · United Kingdom (1)
- Yoruba5 looks · 3 countries
Côte d’Ivoire (2) · Ghana (2) · Denmark (1)
- Germany5 looks · 3 countries
Denmark (2) · United Kingdom (2) · Italy (1)
- Greece5 looks · 1 country
Italy (5)
How each look is placed
- Another region From another region
- Neighbouring From a neighbouring country
- Home tradition The house's own tradition
- Own region From the house's own region
- Can't tell Indigenous tradition, on the house's home ground
- Base unknown House base not recorded
* Base inferred from the national fashion week the house shows at; the house has no recorded base.
How we read it
Read from the runway photographs by our AI tagger: an element counts when it is recognisably drawn from a specific dress or craft tradition and the tagger is at least 60% confident. It describes the clothes only, never the person wearing them, and it is not a statement by the house.
A look is borrowed when the house that showed it is based outside the country the tradition comes from. We compare the house's base (recorded, or inferred from the one national fashion week it shows at) with the tradition the tagger named. Traditions the tagger could only place by region, such as “West African”, count as borrowed only when the house is based outside that region. For Indigenous traditions a house based on the same territory may or may not belong to the community, so those looks are marked “can’t tell”. A house’s base says nothing about its designers’ own heritage, and borrowing is not a verdict: it can be collaboration, homage or appropriation, which the photographs can’t show.