Cultural influences · SS27
Who borrowed from whom
Every pairing of a house and a tradition from outside the country it is based in: who drew on it, what they took, and the look that shows it.
Where each look stands
1102 looks that drew on a tradition, by how the tradition relates to the house- From another region 389
- From a neighbouring country 135
- Home tradition or own region 472
- Can't tell 146
drawing on Japan
13 pairings, most looks first
France → JapanAnother region
23 looks · 8 houses · tabi, kimono / obi brocade, kimono
Givenchy · Maison Margiela · Kenzo · Dior · Isabel Marant and 3 more
“White calf-high boots with a clearly split toe separating the big toe, the defining feature of Japanese jika-tabi, reworked as painted leather boots.”

Italy → JapanAnother region
18 looks · 7 houses · haori, kimono, tabi
Giorgio Armani · Alberta Ferretti · Capasa Milano Shoes Collection · Act N°1 · Emporio Armani and 2 more
“Visible split-toe construction separating the big toe from the other toes, derived from Japanese jika-tabi, reworked as black suede knee-high heeled boots with side zip.”

Denmark → JapanAnother region
4 looks · 3 houses · hakama, kasuri, origami paper folding
The Royal Danish Academy · La Bagatelle* · Scandinavian Academy of Fashion Design
“Indigo ground with scattered small white cross/igeta-like marks and red dashes with blurred, feathered edges typical of kasuri weft ikat; Indian cotton ikat also possible.”

United Kingdom → JapanAnother region
4 looks · 3 houses · tabi, haori, origami crane (orizuru)
Chopova Lowena · Robert Wun · Temperley London
“White face piece shaped as a folded paper crane: crisp creased planes, pointed wings, upright folded neck and tail, the classic orizuru form, rendered rigid and enlarged.”

South Africa → JapanAnother region
4 looks · 2 houses · kimono, obi, noragi / samue workwear
Imprint South Africa · Dennis Chuene
“Straight-cut wrap robe with crossed V-neck collar band in contrasting orange, wide rectangular sleeves, knee length rather than full length.”


Nigeria → JapanAnother region
3 looks · 3 houses · kimono, shibori, tabi
Dust OF The Earth* · Geometric Motion* · Studio Namnyak*
“Burgundy leather loafers with a distinct split-toe separating the big toe, the defining tabi form, reworked as a chain-trim loafer.”


Mexico → JapanAnother region
2 looks · 2 houses · hinomaru / rising sun motif, tabi
Efecto Perfecto* · Nin Studio*
“Black low shoes with a visible split separating the big toe from the other toes, the defining tabi feature, reworked as a soled shoe.”

United States → JapanAnother region
2 looks · 2 houses · kimono / obi brocade, tabi
“Gold metallic-weft brocade on cream ground with stylised clouds, waves and blossom sprays in a scattered landscape layout like obi kinran; Chinese silk brocade also possible.”

Brazil → JapanAnother region
1 look · 1 house · kimono, obi
“Long straight-cut wrap coat with left-over-right crossed front, closed by a wide sash at the waist; given a shirt collar and patchwork panels.”

South Korea → JapanNeighbouring
1 look · 1 house · red-crowned crane motif
“Red-crowned cranes with black-tipped wings among pines, stylised scalloped cloud bands and gold sunburst flowers, recalling Japanese kimono and byōbu screen crane-and-pine imagery.”

Netherlands → JapanAnother region
1 look · 1 house · kimono
“Crossover wrapped V front with deep rectangular hanging sleeves extended along a horizontal pole, recalling a kimono displayed on an ikō rack; heavily reworked drape.”
By where the house is based
Looks drawing on another country's tradition, and the traditions drawn on most
- Italy139 looks · 27 houses
Japan (18) · India (15) · Ecuador (15) · Central Asian (unspecified) (13)
- France75 looks · 21 houses
Japan (23) · Scotland (17) · China (17) · Spain (7)
- Japan56 looks · 24 houses
Scotland (26) · China (13) · Spain (4) · Mexico (3)
- Denmark52 looks · 16 houses
India (15) · China (10) · Scotland (9) · Spain (5)
- United States50 looks · 16 houses
Scotland (15) · India (9) · Ghana (6) · Spain (5)
- Nigeria29 looks · 14 houses
Morocco (7) · China (6) · Japan (3) · Mali (3)
- Germany25 looks · 9 houses
China (13) · Spain (5) · Austria (2) · Japan (2)
- Belgium24 looks · 3 houses
Scotland (8) · Andean (7) · India (7) · Austria (1)
- United Kingdom20 looks · 9 houses
West African (unspecified) (4) · Japan (4) · Spain (3) · Andean (2)
- South Africa9 looks · 2 houses
Japan (4) · West African (unspecified) (3) · Mali (2) · Fulani (1)
- Lebanon8 looks · 2 houses
India (7) · China (1)
- Côte d’Ivoire5 looks · 1 house
Fulani (2) · Yoruba (2) · Ghana (1) · South Asian (unspecified) (1)
- Mexico5 looks · 4 houses
Japan (2) · China (1) · Korea (1) · Spain (1)
- South Korea5 looks · 1 house
European (unspecified) (2) · Austria (1) · Japan (1) · Russia (1)
- Brazil4 looks · 3 houses
China (1) · European (unspecified) (1) · Japan (1) · Palestine (1)
- China3 looks · 3 houses
Japan (3)
- India3 looks · 2 houses
Cambodia (1) · Scotland (1) · Spain (1)
- Sweden2 looks · 2 houses
Austria (1) · Korea (1)
- Netherlands2 looks · 2 houses
Japan (1) · West African (unspecified) (1)
- Ghana2 looks · 1 house
Yoruba (2)
By tradition
Looks by houses based elsewhere, and where those houses are based
- Scotland91 looks · 9 countries
Japan (26) · France (17) · United States (15) · Italy (13)
- China72 looks · 11 countries
France (17) · Japan (13) · Germany (13) · Denmark (10)
- Japan68 looks · 13 countries
France (23) · Italy (18) · Denmark (4) · United Kingdom (4)
- India59 looks · 8 countries
Denmark (15) · Italy (15) · United States (9) · Lebanon (7)
- Spain39 looks · 12 countries
France (7) · Denmark (5) · Germany (5) · Italy (5)
- Morocco17 looks · 3 countries
Italy (8) · Nigeria (7) · France (2)
- Ecuador16 looks · 2 countries
Italy (15) · United Kingdom (1)
- Central Asian (unspecified)16 looks · 2 countries
Italy (13) · Denmark (3)
- South Asian (unspecified)13 looks · 8 countries
Denmark (4) · Italy (3) · Germany (1) · France (1)
- Austria12 looks · 7 countries
Italy (4) · Germany (2) · United States (2) · France (1)
- West African (unspecified)11 looks · 6 countries
United Kingdom (4) · South Africa (3) · France (1) · Italy (1)
- Native American (unspecified)10 looks · 3 countries
Italy (7) · Japan (2) · United Kingdom (1)
- East Asian (unspecified)10 looks · 5 countries
Italy (3) · United States (3) · France (2) · Denmark (1)
- Andean10 looks · 3 countries
Belgium (7) · United Kingdom (2) · Italy (1)
- Ghana9 looks · 3 countries
United States (6) · Nigeria (2) · Côte d’Ivoire (1)
- Mexico8 looks · 4 countries
Japan (3) · United States (3) · Belgium (1) · France (1)
- Middle Eastern (unspecified)6 looks · 4 countries
Italy (2) · Nigeria (2) · Denmark (1) · United Kingdom (1)
- Yoruba5 looks · 3 countries
Côte d’Ivoire (2) · Ghana (2) · Denmark (1)
- Germany5 looks · 3 countries
Denmark (2) · United Kingdom (2) · Italy (1)
- Greece5 looks · 1 country
Italy (5)
How each look is placed
- Another region From another region
- Neighbouring From a neighbouring country
- Home tradition The house's own tradition
- Own region From the house's own region
- Can't tell Indigenous tradition, on the house's home ground
- Base unknown House base not recorded
* Base inferred from the national fashion week the house shows at; the house has no recorded base.
How we read it
Read from the runway photographs by our AI tagger: an element counts when it is recognisably drawn from a specific dress or craft tradition and the tagger is at least 60% confident. It describes the clothes only, never the person wearing them, and it is not a statement by the house.
A look is borrowed when the house that showed it is based outside the country the tradition comes from. We compare the house's base (recorded, or inferred from the one national fashion week it shows at) with the tradition the tagger named. Traditions the tagger could only place by region, such as “West African”, count as borrowed only when the house is based outside that region. For Indigenous traditions a house based on the same territory may or may not belong to the community, so those looks are marked “can’t tell”. A house’s base says nothing about its designers’ own heritage, and borrowing is not a verdict: it can be collaboration, homage or appropriation, which the photographs can’t show.
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