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Fashion Field Notes
For Publications

Cultural influences · SS27

East Asia

306 looks from 101 houses drew on East Asia traditions: 1 in 6 shows this season.

306Looks
1.17%Of all looks
112Shows
101Houses

Who made them

Looks by where the house is based
  • Houses based in the region 87
  • Houses based elsewhere 109
  • House base not recorded 110

Which cultures

  • Japan66.3%
  • China27.1%
  • East Asian (unspecified)4.2%
  • Korea2.6%
  • Tibet0.98%
  • Mongolia0.33%

Share of the region's 306 looks. “Unspecified” when the element is shared across the region.

What kind of reference

  • Garment form36.3%
  • Embroidery / embellishment27.8%
  • Textile / weave21.2%
  • Motif18.3%
  • Footwear17.6%
  • Styling / layering5.2%
  • Print / dye technique4.9%
  • Headwear1.6%

The elements

Looks drawing on each, and the houses that showed it

On the runway

Up to three looks per house, strongest first
Cote Mer, look 17

Cote Mer · Look 17 · Tokyo

  • Boro patchwork
  • Sashiko
  • Kasuri

“Pieced indigo cotton patches of varied blues and patterns, layered and mended look, reworked into a leather-sleeved pullover and cargo trousers.”

Cote Mer, look 30

Cote Mer · Look 30 · Tokyo

  • Kimono / obi brocade
  • Japanese seasonal motifs (crane, pine, seigaiha, sakura)
  • Haori

“Gold-metallic woven brocade panels with chrysanthemums, cherry blossoms, maple leaves, cranes, pine and seigaiha waves, consistent with repurposed kimono and obi fabrics.”

Enföld, look 36

Enföld · Look 36 · Tokyo

  • Geta / zori
  • Tabi

“Flat thong sandals with a woven straw-like footbed and thick padded white V-shaped hanao straps, the construction of traditional zori.”

Fdmtl, look 1

Fdmtl · Look 1 · Tokyo

  • Tabi
  • Hakama

“Clearly visible split-toe front separating big toe, reworked as a laced teal sneaker with dark rubber sole.”

Kallmeyer, look 3

Kallmeyer · Look 3 · New York

  • Pankou / frog closures
  • Tang jacket

“Four horizontal knotted cord closures in matching black, evenly spaced down the centre front, fastening edge-to-edge in the manner of Chinese pankou.”

Lemaire, look 63

Lemaire · Look 63 · Paris

  • Pankou / frog closures
  • Tang jacket

“Row of knotted toggle-and-loop frog fastenings down the centre front, rendered in self leather rather than silk cord.”

Fdmtl, look 3

Fdmtl · Look 3 · Tokyo

  • Tabi

“Split-toe construction separating the big toe on both shoes, reworked as lace-up sneakers with rubber soles.”

Cote Mer, look 3

Cote Mer · Look 3 · Tokyo

  • Seigaiha wave motif
  • Kimono / obi brocade
  • Kimono / obi brocade

“Overlapping concentric-arc blue wave pattern (seigaiha) on lower front panel of the blazer.”

Yohji Yamamoto, look 38

Yohji Yamamoto · Look 38 · Paris

  • Kimono
  • Obi
  • Sensu folding fan hair ornament

“Left-over-right crossed V-neck wrap front, wide hanging rectangular sleeves, long straight robe silhouette layered in black wool.”

Fdmtl, look 15

Fdmtl · Look 15 · Tokyo

  • Tabi
  • Noragi / samue workwear
  • Haori

“Visible split-toe construction separating the big toe on the dark low shoes, characteristic of jika-tabi.”

Yohji Yamamoto, look 4

Yohji Yamamoto · Look 4 · Paris

  • Kimono
  • Obi
  • Kimono layering with striped under-collar

“Left-over-right crossed collar wrap, wide rectangular hanging sleeves, ankle-length straight robe; reworked in black wool with oversized proportions.”

Yohji Yamamoto, look 45

Yohji Yamamoto · Look 45 · Paris

  • Geta / zori
  • Tabi
  • Japanese calligraphy and ukiyo-e figure print

“Flat raised black platform soles with thong (hanao) strap between toes, worn over split-toe socks, matching Japanese geta form.”

Enföld, look 35

Enföld · Look 35 · Tokyo

  • Geta / zori
  • Tabi

“Flat thonged sandals with woven straw-like footbed and white-edged platform sole, V-strap between toes in classic zori/setta form, worn over black socks.”

William Fan, look 26

William Fan · Look 26 · Berlin

  • Pankou / frog closures
  • Tang jacket

“Row of horizontal knotted cord frog fastenings down the centre front, here paired with a modern zip on a technical nylon blouson.”

William Fan, look 31

William Fan · Look 31 · Berlin

  • Pankou / frog closures
  • Tang jacket

“Row of self-fabric knotted button-and-loop closures running down the front opening, matching fabric, in the traditional pankou placement.”

Lemaire, look 26

Lemaire · Look 26 · Paris

  • Pankou / frog closures
  • Tang jacket

“Row of knotted toggle-and-loop closures fastening the centre front, rendered in leather on an oversized jacket.”

The Garment, look 1

The Garment · Look 1 · Copenhagen

  • Pankou / frog closures
  • Tang jacket

“Four knotted cord frog fastenings in self-fabric down a centre-front slit opening, a traditional Chinese knot-button closure, set on a tailored white jacket.”

Pillz N Poizn, look 11

Pillz N Poizn · Look 11 · Lagos

  • Pankou / frog closures
  • Tang jacket

“Four knotted cord frog fastenings in pink running down the centre front of the jacket, reworked in a pastel colourway.”

Absent Findings, look 20

Absent Findings · Look 20 · Milan

  • Endless knot (palbeu) motif
  • Chinese silk brocade

“Repeated interlaced angular endless-knot (one of the Eight Auspicious Symbols) woven tone-on-tone into lavender slubby fabric.”

Mame Kurogouchi, look 34

Mame Kurogouchi · Look 34 · Paris

  • Pankou / frog closures
  • Tang jacket

“Four black knotted cord frog fastenings with loops closing the front of the jacket, traditional Chinese pankou construction.”

Alice YU, look 29

Alice YU · Look 29 · Milan

  • Qipao / cheongsam
  • Dragon / phoenix motif

“Fitted red bodice with high standing collar, short cap sleeves and close cheongsam cut, cropped to an asymmetric diagonal hem over a separate skirt.”

Dior, look 47

Dior · Look 47 · Paris

  • Pankou / frog closures
  • Chinese silk brocade

“Black knotted cord frog fastenings with looped ends and hanging tassel closing the jacket front below the shearling collar.”

Kallmeyer, look 27

Kallmeyer · Look 27 · New York

  • Pankou / frog closures
  • Tang jacket

“Four black knotted-cord loop-and-knob fastenings set horizontally down the centre front, contrasting with the gold fabric, in the traditional pankou arrangement.”

Imprint South Africa, look 19

Imprint South Africa · Look 19 · Lagos

  • Kimono
  • Obi

“Straight-cut wrap robe with crossed V-neck collar band in contrasting orange, wide rectangular sleeves, knee length rather than full length.”

Isabel Marant, look 28

Isabel Marant · Look 28 · Paris

  • Pankou / frog closures
  • Tang jacket

“Four black corded loop-and-knot-button closures fastening the centre front and collar, the classic Chinese pankou arrangement, here on a padded satin bomber.”

Enföld, look 15

Enföld · Look 15 · Tokyo

  • Geta / zori

“Flat woven straw-look footbed with thick padded black velvet-like hanao thong strap, worn with white socks pulled up tabi-style; zori form on a chunky rubber sole.”

Seivson, look 13

Seivson · Look 13 · Tokyo

  • Pankou / frog closures

“Three pairs of white knotted-cord ornamental closures with looped floral coils replace buttons down the front of a striped trench-style coat.”

Absent Findings, look 6

Absent Findings · Look 6 · Milan

  • Tabi

“Black leather ankle boots with a clearly divided split toe separating the big toe, the defining feature of Japanese tabi, reworked as a heeled leather boot.”

Absent Findings, look 13

Absent Findings · Look 13 · Milan

  • Tabi
  • Batik

“Black leather footwear with clearly visible split toe separating big toe from the others, the defining tabi feature, reworked as Western leather boot.”

Marke, look 20

Marke · Look 20 · Berlin

  • Tabi

“White lace-up sneakers with a clearly divided split toe separating the big toe, the defining tabi form, reworked as athletic footwear.”

Auralee, look 40

Auralee · Look 40 · Paris

  • Pankou / frog closures

“Row of self-fabric knotted cord frog closures with loop fastenings down the centre front of the blue cotton shirt, replacing ordinary buttons.”

Swedish School of Textiles, look 18

Swedish School of Textiles · Look 18 · Copenhagen

  • Hanbok

“Short jeogori-like top with crossed V-neck, white-edged dongjeong-style collar band and long hanging otgoreum-like ribbon tie; sheer pale blue fabric; set over a skirt.”

Alexis Mabille, look 13

Alexis Mabille · Look 13 · Paris

  • Pankou / frog closures

“Row of knotted black fabric frog fastenings with loops running down the centre-front opening of the cape, in the traditional pankou style.”

Mame Kurogouchi, look 33

Mame Kurogouchi · Look 33 · Paris

  • Pankou / frog closures

“Row of white knotted cord frog fastenings across the chest of the white jacket, in traditional Chinese pankou form.”

Maison Margiela, look 23

Maison Margiela · Look 23 · Paris

  • Tabi

“White calf-high boots with a clearly split toe separating the big toe, the defining feature of Japanese jika-tabi, reworked as painted leather boots.”

Maison Margiela, look 34

Maison Margiela · Look 34 · Paris

  • Tabi

“Black leather ankle boots with a distinct split separating the big toe from the other toes, the defining feature of Japanese tabi, reworked as a heeled leather boot.”

The houses

101 houses, by looks drawing on East Asia traditions

Based in the region

  • Yohji Yamamoto · 24 looks · geta / zori, haori, japanese calligraphy and ukiyo-e figure print Based in Japan
  • Fdmtl · 20 looks · boro patchwork, hakama, haori Based in Japan
  • Enföld · 10 looks · geta / zori, tabi Based in Japan
  • Issey Miyake · 4 looks · hakama, kimono, shibori Based in Japan
  • Junya Watanabe Man · 4 looks · boro patchwork, sashiko Based in Japan
  • Mikio Sakabe · 4 looks · haori, sailor fuku school uniform, sailor-style school uniform (seifuku) Based in Japan
  • Wooyoungmi · 3 looks · red-crowned crane motif, sipjangsaeng (ten longevity symbols) motif, sipjangsaeng (ten longevity symbols) motifs Based in South Korea
  • Anrealage · 2 looks · kimono, sukajan souvenir-jacket embroidery Based in Japan
  • Auralee · 2 looks · pankou / frog closures Based in Japan
  • Eitaro · 2 looks · irezumi / sukajan tiger motif, sukajan / irezumi-style tiger embroidery Based in Japan
  • Mame Kurogouchi · 2 looks · pankou / frog closures, tang jacket Based in Japan
  • Icicle · 1 look · obi Based in China
  • Jarelzhang · 1 look · pankou / frog closures Based in China
  • Junko Shimada · 1 look · haori, japanese pine-tree painting motif Based in Japan
  • Noir Kei Ninomiya · 1 look · pankou / frog closures Based in Japan
  • support surface · 1 look · cross-collar wrap closure Based in Japan
  • Uma Wang · 1 look · haori Based in China
  • WHiTENOOK · 1 look · qipao / cheongsam Based in Japan
  • Yohei Ohno · 1 look · kasuri, kimono / obi brocade Based in Japan
  • yoshiokubo · 1 look · deel Based in Japan
  • Yueqi QI · 1 look · sailor school uniform (seifuku) Based in China

Based elsewhere

  • Giorgio Armani · 14 looks · auspicious cloud (xiangyun) motif, boro patchwork, chinese silk brocade Based in Italy
  • William Fan · 7 looks · pankou / frog closures, qipao / cheongsam, tang jacket Based in Germany
  • Givenchy · 6 looks · chrysanthemum (kiku) motif, japanese floral silk embroidery (chrysanthemum and wisteria), japanese wisteria and chrysanthemum motif Based in France
  • Kenzo · 6 looks · chinese embroidered silk slippers, chinese embroidered slippers, kimono Based in France
  • Maison Margiela · 6 looks · kimono / obi brocade, tabi Based in France
  • Isabel Marant · 5 looks · pankou / frog closures, sashiko, sukajan / souvenir jacket Based in France
  • Amiri · 4 looks · crane and pine motif, dragon / phoenix motif, gold metallic-thread embroidery Based in United States
  • Dior · 4 looks · chinese silk brocade, kimono / obi brocade, pankou / frog closures Based in France
  • The Garment · 4 looks · pankou / frog closures, tang jacket Based in Denmark
  • Alberta Ferretti · 3 looks · kimono Based in Italy
  • Capasa Milano Shoes Collection · 3 looks · tabi Based in Italy
  • Imprint South Africa · 3 looks · kimono, obi Based in South Africa
  • Lemaire · 3 looks · noragi / samue workwear, pankou / frog closures, tang jacket Based in France
  • Ottolinger · 3 looks · pankou / frog closures, qipao / cheongsam Based in Germany
  • The Royal Danish Academy · 3 looks · dudou bib, folded paper lucky stars, origami paper folding Based in Denmark
  • Act N°1 · 2 looks · pankou / frog closures, qipao / cheongsam, tabi Based in Italy
  • Chopova Lowena · 2 looks · tabi Based in United Kingdom
  • Courreges · 2 looks · pankou / frog closures Based in France
  • Kallmeyer · 2 looks · pankou / frog closures, tang jacket Based in Germany
  • 3.1 Phillip Lim · 1 look · tabi Based in United States
  • Adam Lippes · 1 look · pankou / frog closures Based in United States
  • Agnes B. · 1 look · kimono Based in France
  • Alexis Mabille · 1 look · pankou / frog closures Based in France
  • Amato Daniele · 1 look · chinese landscape (shanshui) motif Based in Italy
  • By Malene Birger · 1 look · pankou / frog closures Based in Denmark
  • Daniela Gregis · 1 look · jogakbo / bojagi patchwork Based in Italy
  • Dennis Chuene · 1 look · kimono, noragi / samue workwear Based in South Africa
  • Emporio Armani · 1 look · obi Based in Italy
  • Études Studio · 1 look · tabi Based in France
  • Forte_forte · 1 look · haori Based in Italy
  • Georges Hobeika · 1 look · qipao / cheongsam Based in Lebanon
  • Kiko Kostadinov · 1 look · dajin side-fastening jacket Based in United Kingdom
  • Loro Piana · 1 look · chinese silk brocade Based in Italy
  • Mugler · 1 look · pankou / frog closures Based in France
  • Officine Générale · 1 look · pankou / frog closures Based in France
  • Pressiat · 1 look · qipao / cheongsam Based in France
  • Qasimi · 1 look · kimono Based in United Kingdom
  • Robert Wun · 1 look · origami crane (orizuru) Based in United Kingdom
  • Scandinavian Academy of Fashion Design · 1 look · hakama Based in Denmark
  • Schiaparelli · 1 look · pankou / frog closures Based in France
  • Simon Cracker · 1 look · sashiko Based in Italy
  • Stéphane Rolland · 1 look · qipao / cheongsam Based in France
  • Swedish School of Textiles · 1 look · hanbok Based in Sweden
  • Temperley London · 1 look · haori Based in United Kingdom
  • Tory Burch · 1 look · kimono / obi brocade Based in United States
  • Viktor&Rolf · 1 look · kimono Based in Netherlands

Base not recorded

  • Cote Mer · 37 looks · boro patchwork, chrysanthemum and phoenix motif, crane and chrysanthemum kimono motifs
  • Absent Findings · 12 looks · chinese silk brocade, endless knot (palbeu) motif, endless knot motif
  • Alice YU · 7 looks · auspicious cloud and blossom motif, chinese bamboo ink-painting panels, chinese cash coin motif
  • Cascinelli · 5 looks · pankou / frog closures
  • Mizen · 5 looks · hanbok, kasuri, kimono
  • Wisharawish · 5 looks · geta / zori, kasuri, obi
  • Bakusoraya · 3 looks · pankou / frog closures
  • Seivson · 3 looks · pankou / frog closures, qipao / cheongsam
  • Bottega Bernard · 2 looks · kasuri, noragi / samue workwear
  • Centro · 2 looks · hanbok, pankou / frog closures
  • Charinyeh · 2 looks · hanbok, pankou / frog closures, tang jacket
  • La Bagatelle · 2 looks · kasuri, pankou / frog closures
  • Mr. Larkin · 2 looks · chinese silk brocade, pankou / frog closures
  • Pettre Taylor · 2 looks · pankou / frog closures
  • pillings · 2 looks · tabi
  • Aluf · 1 look · pankou / frog closures
  • Bikkembergs · 1 look · haori
  • Casa Preti · 1 look · hakama
  • Cria Costura · 1 look · kimono, obi
  • Dagger · 1 look · yin-yang / taijitu motif
  • Davii · 1 look · haori
  • Dust OF The Earth · 1 look · tabi
  • Efecto Perfecto · 1 look · hinomaru / rising sun motif
  • Geometric Motion · 1 look · shibori
  • Impari · 1 look · noragi / samue workwear
  • Marke · 1 look · tabi
  • Moarno · 1 look · haori
  • Nin Studio · 1 look · tabi
  • pays des fées · 1 look · qipao / cheongsam
  • Pillz N Poizn · 1 look · pankou / frog closures, tang jacket
  • RequaL≡ · 1 look · chinese silk brocade
  • soduk · 1 look · shibori
  • Studio Namnyak · 1 look · kimono
  • Taus · 1 look · qipao / cheongsam

Where it was shown

Share of each fashion week's looks
  • Tokyo5.4%
  • Paris1.1%
  • Milan0.72%
  • Copenhagen1.0%
  • Lagos0.85%
  • Berlin1.1%
  • New York0.26%
  • Mexico City1.5%
  • London0.49%
  • Sao Paulo0.69%

How we read it

Read from the runway photographs by our AI tagger: an element counts when it is recognisably drawn from a specific dress or craft tradition and the tagger is at least 60% confident. It describes the clothes only, never the person wearing them, and it is not a statement by the house.

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