Cultural influences · SS27
Who borrowed from whom
Every pairing of a house and a tradition from outside the country it is based in: who drew on it, what they took, and the look that shows it.
Where each look stands
1102 looks that drew on a tradition, by how the tradition relates to the house- From another region 389
- From a neighbouring country 135
- Home tradition or own region 472
- Can't tell 146
drawing on South Asian (unspecified)
8 pairings, most looks first
Denmark → South Asian (unspecified)Another region
4 looks · 2 houses · ikat / patola
“Turquoise cotton with feathered, blurred-edge white-and-blue diamond/flame motifs typical of resist-dyed ikat; likely Indian handloom ikat, though Central or Southeast Asian ikat also possible.”
Italy → South Asian (unspecified)Another region
3 looks · 3 houses · ikat / patola, kurta, salwar / shalwar kameez
Emporio Armani · Fendi · Moschino
“Woven upper with blurred, feathered-edge grey chevron and flame shapes typical of warp-resist ikat; could equally be Central Asian or Southeast Asian ikat.”
Belgium → South Asian (unspecified)Another region
1 look · 1 house · zardozi
“Raised, padded gold metal-thread and coiled wire embroidery in dense floral and scroll motifs on black wool; could also draw on Chinese or Ottoman goldwork.”
Côte d’Ivoire → South Asian (unspecified)Another region
1 look · 1 house · kurta
“Ankle-length straight sleeveless tunic with embellished round neckline, worn over a separate sheer gold layer, recalling a kurta / kameez-over-lower-garment layering.”
Germany → South Asian (unspecified)Another region
1 look · 1 house · dupatta, latkan tassels, zardozi
“Sheer magenta net with scattered sequin butis and heavy gold embroidered border panel, matching classic bridal dupatta layout.”
France → South Asian (unspecified)Another region
1 look · 1 house · rudraksha / prayer bead mala
“Strand of brown textured rudraksha-like seed beads with dangling tassels, like a Hindu or Buddhist japa mala; carved bone-like beads could also suggest Tibetan bone malas.”
Japan → South Asian (unspecified)Another region
1 look · 1 house · ikat / patola
“Chevron bands with blurred, feathered-edge purple and white motifs typical of ikat. Could equally draw on Central Asian adras, Japanese kasuri or Southeast Asian ikat. Reworked on pleated fabric.”
United States → South Asian (unspecified)Another region
1 look · 1 house · bindi
“Round red dot placed centrally between the brows, worn in the traditional position.”
By where the house is based
Looks drawing on another country's tradition, and the traditions drawn on most
- Italy139 looks · 27 houses
Japan (18) · India (15) · Ecuador (15) · Central Asian (unspecified) (13)
- France75 looks · 21 houses
Japan (23) · Scotland (17) · China (17) · Spain (7)
- Japan56 looks · 24 houses
Scotland (26) · China (13) · Spain (4) · Mexico (3)
- Denmark52 looks · 16 houses
India (15) · China (10) · Scotland (9) · Spain (5)
- United States50 looks · 16 houses
Scotland (15) · India (9) · Ghana (6) · Spain (5)
- Nigeria29 looks · 14 houses
Morocco (7) · China (6) · Japan (3) · Mali (3)
- Germany25 looks · 9 houses
China (13) · Spain (5) · Austria (2) · Japan (2)
- Belgium24 looks · 3 houses
Scotland (8) · Andean (7) · India (7) · Austria (1)
- United Kingdom20 looks · 9 houses
West African (unspecified) (4) · Japan (4) · Spain (3) · Andean (2)
- South Africa9 looks · 2 houses
Japan (4) · West African (unspecified) (3) · Mali (2) · Fulani (1)
- Lebanon8 looks · 2 houses
India (7) · China (1)
- Côte d’Ivoire5 looks · 1 house
Fulani (2) · Yoruba (2) · Ghana (1) · South Asian (unspecified) (1)
- Mexico5 looks · 4 houses
Japan (2) · China (1) · Korea (1) · Spain (1)
- South Korea5 looks · 1 house
European (unspecified) (2) · Austria (1) · Japan (1) · Russia (1)
- Brazil4 looks · 3 houses
China (1) · European (unspecified) (1) · Japan (1) · Palestine (1)
- China3 looks · 3 houses
Japan (3)
- India3 looks · 2 houses
Cambodia (1) · Scotland (1) · Spain (1)
- Sweden2 looks · 2 houses
Austria (1) · Korea (1)
- Netherlands2 looks · 2 houses
Japan (1) · West African (unspecified) (1)
- Ghana2 looks · 1 house
Yoruba (2)
By tradition
Looks by houses based elsewhere, and where those houses are based
- Scotland91 looks · 9 countries
Japan (26) · France (17) · United States (15) · Italy (13)
- China72 looks · 11 countries
France (17) · Japan (13) · Germany (13) · Denmark (10)
- Japan68 looks · 13 countries
France (23) · Italy (18) · Denmark (4) · United Kingdom (4)
- India59 looks · 8 countries
Denmark (15) · Italy (15) · United States (9) · Lebanon (7)
- Spain39 looks · 12 countries
France (7) · Denmark (5) · Germany (5) · Italy (5)
- Morocco17 looks · 3 countries
Italy (8) · Nigeria (7) · France (2)
- Ecuador16 looks · 2 countries
Italy (15) · United Kingdom (1)
- Central Asian (unspecified)16 looks · 2 countries
Italy (13) · Denmark (3)
- South Asian (unspecified)13 looks · 8 countries
Denmark (4) · Italy (3) · Germany (1) · France (1)
- Austria12 looks · 7 countries
Italy (4) · Germany (2) · United States (2) · France (1)
- West African (unspecified)11 looks · 6 countries
United Kingdom (4) · South Africa (3) · France (1) · Italy (1)
- Native American (unspecified)10 looks · 3 countries
Italy (7) · Japan (2) · United Kingdom (1)
- East Asian (unspecified)10 looks · 5 countries
Italy (3) · United States (3) · France (2) · Denmark (1)
- Andean10 looks · 3 countries
Belgium (7) · United Kingdom (2) · Italy (1)
- Ghana9 looks · 3 countries
United States (6) · Nigeria (2) · Côte d’Ivoire (1)
- Mexico8 looks · 4 countries
Japan (3) · United States (3) · Belgium (1) · France (1)
- Middle Eastern (unspecified)6 looks · 4 countries
Italy (2) · Nigeria (2) · Denmark (1) · United Kingdom (1)
- Yoruba5 looks · 3 countries
Côte d’Ivoire (2) · Ghana (2) · Denmark (1)
- Germany5 looks · 3 countries
Denmark (2) · United Kingdom (2) · Italy (1)
- Greece5 looks · 1 country
Italy (5)
How each look is placed
- Another region From another region
- Neighbouring From a neighbouring country
- Home tradition The house's own tradition
- Own region From the house's own region
- Can't tell Indigenous tradition, on the house's home ground
- Base unknown House base not recorded
* Base inferred from the national fashion week the house shows at; the house has no recorded base.
How we read it
Read from the runway photographs by our AI tagger: an element counts when it is recognisably drawn from a specific dress or craft tradition and the tagger is at least 60% confident. It describes the clothes only, never the person wearing them, and it is not a statement by the house.
A look is borrowed when the house that showed it is based outside the country the tradition comes from. We compare the house's base (recorded, or inferred from the one national fashion week it shows at) with the tradition the tagger named. Traditions the tagger could only place by region, such as “West African”, count as borrowed only when the house is based outside that region. For Indigenous traditions a house based on the same territory may or may not belong to the community, so those looks are marked “can’t tell”. A house’s base says nothing about its designers’ own heritage, and borrowing is not a verdict: it can be collaboration, homage or appropriation, which the photographs can’t show.