Cultural influences · SS27

Who borrowed from whom

Every pairing of a house and a tradition from outside the country it is based in: who drew on it, what they took, and the look that shows it.

47%Of referencing looks were borrowed

389Looks reached into another region

166Houses borrowed

24Countries they are based in

Where each look stands

1102 looks that drew on a tradition, by how the tradition relates to the house

From another region 389
From a neighbouring country 135
Home tradition or own region 472
Can't tell 146

The pairings

145 pairings, most looks first

Japan → ScotlandAnother region
26 looks · 8 houses · tartan / kilt
Kei Ninomiya · Kidill · Comme Des Garçons Homme Plus · Auralee · Junko Shimada and 3 more
“Knee-length pleated wool wrap skirt in green, navy and purple tartan, worn as menswear kilt; reworked with punk safety-pin clusters along pleats.”
France → JapanAnother region
23 looks · 8 houses · tabi, kimono / obi brocade, kimono
Givenchy · Maison Margiela · Kenzo · Dior · Isabel Marant and 3 more
“White calf-high boots with a clearly split toe separating the big toe, the defining feature of Japanese jika-tabi, reworked as painted leather boots.”
Italy → JapanAnother region
18 looks · 7 houses · haori, kimono, tabi
Giorgio Armani · Alberta Ferretti · Capasa Milano Shoes Collection · Act N°1 · Emporio Armani and 2 more
“Visible split-toe construction separating the big toe from the other toes, derived from Japanese jika-tabi, reworked as black suede knee-high heeled boots with side zip.”
France → ChinaAnother region
17 looks · 11 houses · pankou / frog closures, tang jacket, qipao / cheongsam
Isabel Marant · Courreges · Dior · Kenzo · Lemaire and 6 more
“Row of knotted toggle-and-loop frog fastenings down the centre front, rendered in self leather rather than silk cord.”
France → ScotlandNeighbouring
17 looks · 5 houses · tartan / kilt
Jeanne Friot · Egonlab. · Agnes B. · Ernest W. Baker · Franck Sorbier
“Red ground sett with navy and green bands and fine yellow and white overchecks, closely resembling Royal Stewart tartan, tailored into a matching three-piece suit and coat.”
Italy → IndiaAnother region
15 looks · 8 houses · kashmir shawl / pashmina, kolhapuri chappal, hand block print
Loro Piana · LA Doublej · Etro · Alanui · Amato Daniele and 3 more
“Repeated Devanagari Om (ॐ) glyph set inside radiating sunburst medallions on front panels and hem, knitted in tan-on-cream jacquard.”
United States → ScotlandAnother region
15 looks · 4 houses · tartan / kilt, highland argyll jacket
Ralph Lauren · Anna Sui · Thom Browne · Tanner Fletcher
“Dark green/navy sett with yellow and red overchecks, Black Watch/Gordon-style tartan worn head-to-toe; frayed selvedge hems on trousers evoke woven wool tartan cloth.”
Denmark → IndiaAnother region
15 looks · 3 houses · hand block print, mughal floral, zardozi
La Bagatelle* · The Garment · The Royal Danish Academy
“Repeated small floral buta stamps in staggered rows with slight registration irregularities and an indigo-teal ground, typical of Indian hand block printing.”
Italy → EcuadorAnother region
15 looks · 1 house · toquilla straw / panama hat
Borsalino
“Fine, dense, even hand-plaited pale straw with a visible spiral starting rosette at the crown, typical of Ecuadorian toquilla palm weaving. The fedora and boater shapes and grosgrain bands are Western.”
Japan → ChinaNeighbouring
13 looks · 9 houses · pankou / frog closures, qipao / cheongsam, tang jacket
Seivson* · Auralee · Mame Kurogouchi · Charinyeh* · Noir Kei Ninomiya and 4 more
“Three pairs of white knotted-cord ornamental closures with looped floral coils replace buttons down the front of a striped trench-style coat.”
Italy → ScotlandNeighbouring
13 looks · 6 houses · tartan / kilt, scottish thistle brooch, scottish thistle emblem
Elena Miro' · Forte_forte · Fabio Quaranta · Etro · Kiton and 1 more
“Silver pin topped with a Scottish thistle head and leaves; shaft has Celtic interlace knotwork, the classic kilt-pin form, here worn on a lapel.”
Germany → ChinaAnother region
13 looks · 4 houses · pankou / frog closures, qipao / cheongsam, tang jacket
William Fan · Ottolinger · Kallmeyer · Dagger*
“Four horizontal knotted cord closures in matching black, evenly spaced down the centre front, fastening edge-to-edge in the manner of Chinese pankou.”
Italy → Central Asian (unspecified)Another region
13 looks · 3 houses · adras / atlas ikat, ikat / patola
Emporio Armani · Etro · Loro Piana
“Large blurred-edge abstract motifs with feathered, streaky warp-direction outlines typical of ikat; neutral grey-cream palette; could also read as Indian or Southeast Asian ikat.”
Denmark → ChinaAnother region
10 looks · 6 houses · pankou / frog closures, chinese silk brocade, tang jacket
The Garment · Mr. Larkin* · By Malene Birger · La Bagatelle* · Taus* and 1 more
“Four knotted cord frog fastenings in self-fabric down a centre-front slit opening, a traditional Chinese knot-button closure, set on a tailored white jacket.”
Denmark → ScotlandNeighbouring
9 looks · 4 houses · tartan / kilt, tam o'shanter
Henrik Vibskov · MKDT Studio* · Anne Sofie Madsen · Stem*
“Navy and dark green sett with thin red and white overcheck lines, in the manner of Black Watch-style tartan, rendered as printed or knitted hosiery.”
United States → IndiaAnother region
9 looks · 3 houses · bindi, zardozi, lehenga / ghagra choli
Cucculelli Shaheen · Prabal Gurung · Altuzarra
“Red teardrop-shaped mark centred on the forehead between the brows, a stylised bindi form. Applied as runway makeup, not a traditional dot.”
Italy → MoroccoAnother region
8 looks · 4 houses · babouche, sfifa braid trim, gandoura / jabador
Capasa Milano Shoes Collection · Giorgio Armani · Emporio Armani · Fendi
“Scrolling corded passementerie braid running down the centre front opening and around the standing collar, as in Moroccan sfifa trim on caftans and jabadors.”
Belgium → ScotlandNeighbouring
8 looks · 2 houses · tartan / kilt, harris tweed
Dries Van Noten · Julie Kegels
“Knee-length dark tartan-check skirt with flat wrapped front panel and pressed pleats massed at the side, echoing kilt construction; embellished with scattered studs.”
France → SpainNeighbouring
7 looks · 5 houses · manton de manila, traje de flamenca, espadrille
Kenzo · Dior · Franck Sorbier · Julie de Libran · Lemaire
“Dense multicolour silk-style floral embroidery on crimson ground: large peonies/roses, scrolling tendrils, scattered blossoms, characteristic of mantón de Manila shawl embroidery, reworked as a full gathered skirt.”
Italy → ChinaAnother region
7 looks · 3 houses · pankou / frog closures, tang jacket, chinese silk brocade
Giorgio Armani · Act N°1 · Amato Daniele
“Horizontal fabric knot-and-loop fastenings set down the centre front in place of buttonholes, the characteristic Chinese pankou closure, done tone-on-tone in black.”
Italy → Native American (unspecified)Another region
7 looks · 2 houses · navajo / dine weaving pattern, beadwork, turquoise and silver jewellery
Alanui · Dolce&Gabbana
“Jacquard knit with stepped serrated diamonds, arrow forms and Greek-key bands in red, cream, tan and charcoal, recalling Southwestern/Diné-style or Pendleton trade-blanket patterning.”
Belgium → AndeanAnother region
7 looks · 1 house · alpaca / andean knit, chullo / andean knit hat
Dries Van Noten
“Burgundy knit hat with small geometric diamond jacquard band and long hanging braided-cord earflap ties in blue patterned knit, characteristic of the Andean chullo construction.”
Belgium → IndiaAnother region
7 looks · 1 house · zardozi
Dries Van Noten
“Raised gold metallic-thread embroidery with padded, coiled couching and dangling gold threads forming a large buta-like motif on black wool skirt.”
Lebanon → IndiaAnother region
7 looks · 1 house · maang tikka, kundan / polki, zardozi
Zuhair Murad
“Small jewelled pendant sits at the centre-part hairline on the forehead, worn as a maang tikka.”
Nigeria → MoroccoAnother region
7 looks · 1 house · sfifa braid trim, gandoura / jabador, moroccan aakad / tassel passementerie
Sahrazad*
“Collarless V-slit neckline with tonal braided trim, a long centre-front placket of small passementerie buttons, and loose wide sleeves typical of Moroccan jabador/gandoura tunics; shortened over shorts.”
Nigeria → ChinaAnother region
6 looks · 3 houses · pankou / frog closures, tang jacket
Bakusoraya* · Pettre Taylor* · Pillz N Poizn*
“Four knotted cord frog fastenings in pink running down the centre front of the jacket, reworked in a pastel colourway.”
United States → GhanaAnother region
6 looks · 1 house · bolga basket
Altuzarra
“Bulbous tightly woven straw basket with dyed red and black bands and a diamond motif, typical of Frafra elephant-grass Bolga baskets, here with a leather handle”
Italy → SpainNeighbouring
5 looks · 4 houses · cordobes hat, espadrille / alpargata, manton de manila
Loro Piana · Dolce&Gabbana · Eleventy · Forte_forte
“Black felt hat with a flat-topped cylindrical crown and stiff, flat, very wide brim. This is the cordobés shape, with the brim exaggerated in proportion.”
Denmark → SpainNeighbouring
5 looks · 3 houses · campero boots, manton de manila, traje de flamenca
La Bagatelle* · OpéraSport* · Sson*
“Tall dark brown leather riding boots with contrasting lighter top band and tasselled side pulls, characteristic of Spanish botas camperas.”
Italy → IrelandNeighbouring
5 looks · 3 houses · irish crochet lace, celtic insular knotwork / zoomorphic interlace, celtic interlace / insular knotwork
LA Doublej · Alanui · Dolce&Gabbana
“Vertical bands of interlaced zoomorphic beasts with biting heads, triskele-like spirals and trumpet curves typical of Insular manuscript art (Book of Kells style); could equally be Scottish/Pictish Celtic.”
United States → SpainAnother region
5 looks · 3 houses · manton de manila, traje de flamenca, lunares polka dots
Carolina Herrera · Ulla Johnson · Anna Sui
“Cream silk with tone-on-tone floral embroidery, hand-knotted macramé lattice border (reja) and long silk fringe, the hallmarks of the manton de manila shawl, recut into top and skirt.”
Germany → SpainNeighbouring
5 looks · 2 houses · manton de manila, mantilla and peineta, shawl-panel construction
Kallmeyer · Sf1Og*
“Dark ground densely embroidered with pale flowers, leafy scrolls and blossoms, edged with long knotted silk fringe, characteristic of mantón de Manila shawls, reworked into a halter dress.”
Italy → GreeceNeighbouring
5 looks · 1 house · greek key meander and amphora motif, ancient greek vase / column motif, classical greek vase and column motifs
Alessandro Enriquez
“All-over print of amphorae, palmettes, scrolling foliage and Greek key meander bands, black on ochre-orange like ancient Greek black-figure pottery.”
Italy → AustriaNeighbouring
4 looks · 4 houses · trachten jacket / janker, trachten silver buttons and cord trim
Blazé Milano · Eleventy · Ermanno Scervino · Marni
“Dark boiled-wool-like jacket with contrasting braided cord trim along lapels, edges and cuffs, metal dome buttons; oversized proportions rework the Alpine janker.”
Denmark → JapanAnother region
4 looks · 3 houses · hakama, kasuri, origami paper folding
The Royal Danish Academy · La Bagatelle* · Scandinavian Academy of Fashion Design
“Indigo ground with scattered small white cross/igeta-like marks and red dashes with blurred, feathered edges typical of kasuri weft ikat; Indian cotton ikat also possible.”
United Kingdom → JapanAnother region
4 looks · 3 houses · tabi, haori, origami crane (orizuru)
Chopova Lowena · Robert Wun · Temperley London
“White face piece shaped as a folded paper crane: crisp creased planes, pointed wings, upright folded neck and tail, the classic orizuru form, rendered rigid and enlarged.”
Denmark → South Asian (unspecified)Another region
4 looks · 2 houses · ikat / patola
La Bagatelle* · Caro Editions
“Turquoise cotton with feathered, blurred-edge white-and-blue diamond/flame motifs typical of resist-dyed ikat; likely Indian handloom ikat, though Central or Southeast Asian ikat also possible.”
Japan → SpainAnother region
4 looks · 2 houses · traje de flamenca, cordobes hat, espadrille / alpargata
Junya Watanabe Man · Junko Shimada
“Body-hugging lace skirt to the knee flaring abruptly into stacked tiered volantes (ruffles) with velvet bands, the classic flamenca mermaid silhouette, reworked in black tulle with sportswear top.”
South Africa → JapanAnother region
4 looks · 2 houses · kimono, obi, noragi / samue workwear
Imprint South Africa · Dennis Chuene
“Straight-cut wrap robe with crossed V-neck collar band in contrasting orange, wide rectangular sleeves, knee length rather than full length.”
United Kingdom → West African (unspecified)Another region
4 looks · 1 house · cowrie shells, gele
Labrum London
“Dense openwork net of cowrie shells strung on dark cord, forming a full face-and-head covering hood with long cord ties; cowrie adornment widespread across West Africa.”
Italy → RussiaNeighbouring
4 looks · 1 house · papakha / cossack fur hat, cossack fur hat / papakha, russian fur hat / papakha
Loro Piana
“Tall brimless cylindrical black fur hat with a flat crown, worn low on the brow, in the Cossack papakha shape.”
China → JapanNeighbouring
3 looks · 3 houses · haori, obi, sailor school uniform (seifuku)
Icicle · Uma Wang · Yueqi QI
“Sailor collar with long tie-scarf, short-sleeved blouse and knife-pleated grey mini skirt echo Japanese seifuku; could also read as generic Western naval/schoolwear.”
France → IndiaAnother region
3 looks · 3 houses · banarasi brocade, sari drape, zardozi
Alexis Mabille · Dior · Franck Sorbier
“Gold lamé panel falls diagonally from the shoulder across the torso and gathers at the hip over a long column, recalling a sari pallu. It is also readable as a generic Grecian drape.”
Italy → South Asian (unspecified)Another region
3 looks · 3 houses · ikat / patola, kurta, salwar / shalwar kameez
Emporio Armani · Fendi · Moschino
“Woven upper with blurred, feathered-edge grey chevron and flame shapes typical of warp-resist ikat; could equally be Central Asian or Southeast Asian ikat.”
Nigeria → JapanAnother region
3 looks · 3 houses · kimono, shibori, tabi
Dust OF The Earth* · Geometric Motion* · Studio Namnyak*
“Burgundy leather loafers with a distinct split-toe separating the big toe, the defining tabi form, reworked as a chain-trim loafer.”
Denmark → Central Asian (unspecified)Another region
3 looks · 2 houses · adras / atlas ikat, ikat / patola
Caro Editions · La Bagatelle*
“Pink-and-white feathered diamond/lozenge ikat pattern with blurred edges, resembling Uzbek adras; could also read as Indian or Southeast Asian ikat. Likely printed rather than woven.”
Italy → Diné (Navajo)Another region
3 looks · 2 houses · navajo / dine weaving pattern, turquoise and silver jewellery
Alanui · Eleventy
“Concho belt: series of oval stamped silver-tone conchos with scalloped edges, scroll repoussé motifs and turquoise centres on a leather strap, plus a matching oval concho buckle.”
Italy → East Asian (unspecified)Another region
3 looks · 2 houses · chinese silk brocade, cloud scroll motif, crossed-collar wrap top
Giorgio Armani · Loro Piana
“Narrow band collar crossing diagonally at the throat over a wrapped front panel. Recalls Korean jeogori, Chinese hanfu jiaoling or kimono collar; the exact source is ambiguous.”
Japan → MexicoAnother region
3 looks · 2 houses · lucha libre mask motif, baja / jerga hoodie
Yukihero Pro-Wrestling* · Ancellm*
“Two chest patches show stylised wrestling masks with contrasting eye and mouth outlines and decorative trim, characteristic of Mexican lucha libre masks, rendered as appliqué.”
United Kingdom → SpainNeighbouring
3 looks · 1 house · manton de manila, traje corto / chaquetilla, traje de luces / matador
Temperley London
“Ivory silk cape with large polychrome rose embroidery, an openwork knotted mesh band (enrejado) and long silk fringe, all characteristic of the Manila shawl, reworked as a cape.”
Nigeria → MaliNeighbouring
3 looks · 1 house · bogolan / mudcloth
Igc Fashion*
“Off-white ground with dark brown repeated geometric glyphs, chevron-filled ovals, zigzag bands and dotted lines in rows, typical of bogolan mudcloth layout; printed rather than mud-dyed.”
United States → East Asian (unspecified)Another region
3 looks · 1 house · crane and pine motif, pine and crane motif, tiger motif (east asian ink painting)
Amiri
“Embroidered gnarled pine branches paired with flying cranes, the classic longevity pairing of Chinese and Japanese painting and textiles, rendered on a knit cardigan.”
United States → MexicoAnother region
3 looks · 1 house · chicano / cholo styling, greca / mesoamerican stepped fret, mesoamerican greca / stepped fret
Willy Chavarria
“Red-on-white stepped-fret meander band on the collar and sleeve cuffs, recalling Mesoamerican greca fretwork (Mitla type). Paired with green-white-red Mexican kit colours.”
South Africa → West African (unspecified)Another region
3 looks · 1 house · ankara / wax print, agbada, kufi
Imprint South Africa
“Bold graphic cotton print with saturated red, blue, black and white blocks, chevrons and stripes in wax-print style colour layout, reworked as patchwork-like panels.”
Germany → JapanAnother region
2 looks · 2 houses · noragi / samue workwear, tabi
Impari* · Marke*
“White lace-up sneakers with a clearly divided split toe separating the big toe, the defining tabi form, reworked as athletic footwear.”
France → East Asian (unspecified)Another region
2 looks · 2 houses · chinese silk brocade, silk satin floral embroidery
Dior · Givenchy
“Dense satin-stitch flowers on lustrous gold silk satin, recalling Japanese kimono or Chinese silk embroidery; could be print, Japanese or Chinese source uncertain.”
United Kingdom → GermanyNeighbouring
2 looks · 2 houses · dirndl / tracht, trachten haferlschuh shoe
Chopova Lowena · Simone Rocha
“Pointed front corselet panel with metal studs, like Alpine mieder hooks, in floral-striped cotton, worn over a full gathered skirt in a dirndl-like silhouette. Could equally be Austrian tracht.”
Italy → Middle Eastern (unspecified)Another region
2 looks · 2 houses · fez / tarboosh, kilim / persian carpet motif
Borsalino · Etro
“Brimless, flat-topped, slightly tapered cylindrical cap with possible small tassel tab at side; reworked in glossy satin. Could read as Ottoman/Moroccan fez or a kufi-style cap.”
Japan → KoreaNeighbouring
2 looks · 2 houses · hanbok
Charinyeh* · Mizen*
“Very short cropped jacket over a high-waisted, voluminous bell-shaped long skirt, with long ribbon tie hanging from chest, echoing jeogori, goreum and chima proportions.”
Japan → Native American (unspecified)Another region
2 looks · 2 houses · beadwork, navajo / dine weaving pattern
kiminori morishita · Sacai
“Chest yoke of strung beads in horizontal bands with vertical bead strands ending in long fringe, recalling Plains beaded and hair-pipe breastplate yokes.”

By where the house is based

Looks drawing on another country's tradition, and the traditions drawn on most

Italy139 looks · 27 houses
Japan (18) · India (15) · Ecuador (15) · Central Asian (unspecified) (13)
France75 looks · 21 houses
Japan (23) · Scotland (17) · China (17) · Spain (7)
Japan56 looks · 24 houses
Scotland (26) · China (13) · Spain (4) · Mexico (3)
Denmark52 looks · 16 houses
India (15) · China (10) · Scotland (9) · Spain (5)
United States50 looks · 16 houses
Scotland (15) · India (9) · Ghana (6) · Spain (5)
Nigeria29 looks · 14 houses
Morocco (7) · China (6) · Japan (3) · Mali (3)
Germany25 looks · 9 houses
China (13) · Spain (5) · Austria (2) · Japan (2)
Belgium24 looks · 3 houses
Scotland (8) · Andean (7) · India (7) · Austria (1)
United Kingdom20 looks · 9 houses
West African (unspecified) (4) · Japan (4) · Spain (3) · Andean (2)
South Africa9 looks · 2 houses
Japan (4) · West African (unspecified) (3) · Mali (2) · Fulani (1)
Lebanon8 looks · 2 houses
India (7) · China (1)
Côte d’Ivoire5 looks · 1 house
Fulani (2) · Yoruba (2) · Ghana (1) · South Asian (unspecified) (1)
Mexico5 looks · 4 houses
Japan (2) · China (1) · Korea (1) · Spain (1)
South Korea5 looks · 1 house
European (unspecified) (2) · Austria (1) · Japan (1) · Russia (1)
Brazil4 looks · 3 houses
China (1) · European (unspecified) (1) · Japan (1) · Palestine (1)
China3 looks · 3 houses
Japan (3)
India3 looks · 2 houses
Cambodia (1) · Scotland (1) · Spain (1)
Sweden2 looks · 2 houses
Austria (1) · Korea (1)
Netherlands2 looks · 2 houses
Japan (1) · West African (unspecified) (1)
Ghana2 looks · 1 house
Yoruba (2)

By tradition

Looks by houses based elsewhere, and where those houses are based

Scotland91 looks · 9 countries
Japan (26) · France (17) · United States (15) · Italy (13)
China72 looks · 11 countries
France (17) · Japan (13) · Germany (13) · Denmark (10)
Japan68 looks · 13 countries
France (23) · Italy (18) · Denmark (4) · United Kingdom (4)
India59 looks · 8 countries
Denmark (15) · Italy (15) · United States (9) · Lebanon (7)
Spain39 looks · 12 countries
France (7) · Denmark (5) · Germany (5) · Italy (5)
Morocco17 looks · 3 countries
Italy (8) · Nigeria (7) · France (2)
Ecuador16 looks · 2 countries
Italy (15) · United Kingdom (1)
Central Asian (unspecified)16 looks · 2 countries
Italy (13) · Denmark (3)
South Asian (unspecified)13 looks · 8 countries
Denmark (4) · Italy (3) · Germany (1) · France (1)
Austria12 looks · 7 countries
Italy (4) · Germany (2) · United States (2) · France (1)
West African (unspecified)11 looks · 6 countries
United Kingdom (4) · South Africa (3) · France (1) · Italy (1)
Native American (unspecified)10 looks · 3 countries
Italy (7) · Japan (2) · United Kingdom (1)
East Asian (unspecified)10 looks · 5 countries
Italy (3) · United States (3) · France (2) · Denmark (1)
Andean10 looks · 3 countries
Belgium (7) · United Kingdom (2) · Italy (1)
Ghana9 looks · 3 countries
United States (6) · Nigeria (2) · Côte d’Ivoire (1)
Mexico8 looks · 4 countries
Japan (3) · United States (3) · Belgium (1) · France (1)
Middle Eastern (unspecified)6 looks · 4 countries
Italy (2) · Nigeria (2) · Denmark (1) · United Kingdom (1)
Yoruba5 looks · 3 countries
Côte d’Ivoire (2) · Ghana (2) · Denmark (1)
Germany5 looks · 3 countries
Denmark (2) · United Kingdom (2) · Italy (1)
Greece5 looks · 1 country
Italy (5)

How each look is placed

Another region From another region
Neighbouring From a neighbouring country
Home tradition The house's own tradition
Own region From the house's own region
Can't tell Indigenous tradition, on the house's home ground
Base unknown House base not recorded

* Base inferred from the national fashion week the house shows at; the house has no recorded base.

How we read it

Read from the runway photographs by our AI tagger: an element counts when it is recognisably drawn from a specific dress or craft tradition and the tagger is at least 60% confident. It describes the clothes only, never the person wearing them, and it is not a statement by the house.

A look is borrowed when the house that showed it is based outside the country the tradition comes from. We compare the house's base (recorded, or inferred from the one national fashion week it shows at) with the tradition the tagger named. Traditions the tagger could only place by region, such as “West African”, count as borrowed only when the house is based outside that region. For Indigenous traditions a house based on the same territory may or may not belong to the community, so those looks are marked “can’t tell”. A house’s base says nothing about its designers’ own heritage, and borrowing is not a verdict: it can be collaboration, homage or appropriation, which the photographs can’t show.

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