Who borrowed from whom

France → ScotlandNeighbouring

17 looks · 5 houses · tartan / kilt

Jeanne Friot · Egonlab. · Agnes B. · Ernest W. Baker · Franck Sorbier

“Red ground sett with navy and green bands and fine yellow and white overchecks, closely resembling Royal Stewart tartan, tailored into a matching three-piece suit and coat.”

Japan → ChinaNeighbouring

13 looks · 9 houses · pankou / frog closures, qipao / cheongsam, tang jacket

Seivson* · Auralee · Mame Kurogouchi · Charinyeh* · Noir Kei Ninomiya and 4 more

“Three pairs of white knotted-cord ornamental closures with looped floral coils replace buttons down the front of a striped trench-style coat.”

Italy → ScotlandNeighbouring

13 looks · 6 houses · tartan / kilt, scottish thistle brooch, scottish thistle emblem

Elena Miro' · Forte_forte · Fabio Quaranta · Etro · Kiton and 1 more

“Silver pin topped with a Scottish thistle head and leaves; shaft has Celtic interlace knotwork, the classic kilt-pin form, here worn on a lapel.”

Denmark → ScotlandNeighbouring

9 looks · 4 houses · tartan / kilt, tam o'shanter

Henrik Vibskov · MKDT Studio* · Anne Sofie Madsen · Stem*

“Navy and dark green sett with thin red and white overcheck lines, in the manner of Black Watch-style tartan, rendered as printed or knitted hosiery.”

Belgium → ScotlandNeighbouring

8 looks · 2 houses · tartan / kilt, harris tweed

Dries Van Noten · Julie Kegels

“Knee-length dark tartan-check skirt with flat wrapped front panel and pressed pleats massed at the side, echoing kilt construction; embellished with scattered studs.”

France → SpainNeighbouring

7 looks · 5 houses · manton de manila, traje de flamenca, espadrille

Kenzo · Dior · Franck Sorbier · Julie de Libran · Lemaire

“Dense multicolour silk-style floral embroidery on crimson ground: large peonies/roses, scrolling tendrils, scattered blossoms, characteristic of mantón de Manila shawl embroidery, reworked as a full gathered skirt.”

Italy → SpainNeighbouring

5 looks · 4 houses · cordobes hat, espadrille / alpargata, manton de manila

Loro Piana · Dolce&Gabbana · Eleventy · Forte_forte

“Black felt hat with a flat-topped cylindrical crown and stiff, flat, very wide brim. This is the cordobés shape, with the brim exaggerated in proportion.”

Denmark → SpainNeighbouring

5 looks · 3 houses · campero boots, manton de manila, traje de flamenca

La Bagatelle* · OpéraSport* · Sson*

“Tall dark brown leather riding boots with contrasting lighter top band and tasselled side pulls, characteristic of Spanish botas camperas.”

Italy → IrelandNeighbouring

5 looks · 3 houses · irish crochet lace, celtic insular knotwork / zoomorphic interlace, celtic interlace / insular knotwork

LA Doublej · Alanui · Dolce&Gabbana

“Vertical bands of interlaced zoomorphic beasts with biting heads, triskele-like spirals and trumpet curves typical of Insular manuscript art (Book of Kells style); could equally be Scottish/Pictish Celtic.”

Germany → SpainNeighbouring

5 looks · 2 houses · manton de manila, mantilla and peineta, shawl-panel construction

Kallmeyer · Sf1Og*

“Dark ground densely embroidered with pale flowers, leafy scrolls and blossoms, edged with long knotted silk fringe, characteristic of mantón de Manila shawls, reworked into a halter dress.”

Italy → GreeceNeighbouring

5 looks · 1 house · greek key meander and amphora motif, ancient greek vase / column motif, classical greek vase and column motifs

Alessandro Enriquez

“All-over print of amphorae, palmettes, scrolling foliage and Greek key meander bands, black on ochre-orange like ancient Greek black-figure pottery.”

Italy → AustriaNeighbouring

4 looks · 4 houses · trachten jacket / janker, trachten silver buttons and cord trim

Blazé Milano · Eleventy · Ermanno Scervino · Marni

“Dark boiled-wool-like jacket with contrasting braided cord trim along lapels, edges and cuffs, metal dome buttons; oversized proportions rework the Alpine janker.”

Italy → RussiaNeighbouring

4 looks · 1 house · papakha / cossack fur hat, cossack fur hat / papakha, russian fur hat / papakha

Loro Piana

“Tall brimless cylindrical black fur hat with a flat crown, worn low on the brow, in the Cossack papakha shape.”

China → JapanNeighbouring

3 looks · 3 houses · haori, obi, sailor school uniform (seifuku)

Icicle · Uma Wang · Yueqi QI

“Sailor collar with long tie-scarf, short-sleeved blouse and knife-pleated grey mini skirt echo Japanese seifuku; could also read as generic Western naval/schoolwear.”

United Kingdom → SpainNeighbouring

3 looks · 1 house · manton de manila, traje corto / chaquetilla, traje de luces / matador

Temperley London

“Ivory silk cape with large polychrome rose embroidery, an openwork knotted mesh band (enrejado) and long silk fringe, all characteristic of the Manila shawl, reworked as a cape.”

Nigeria → MaliNeighbouring

3 looks · 1 house · bogolan / mudcloth

Igc Fashion*

“Off-white ground with dark brown repeated geometric glyphs, chevron-filled ovals, zigzag bands and dotted lines in rows, typical of bogolan mudcloth layout; printed rather than mud-dyed.”

United Kingdom → GermanyNeighbouring

2 looks · 2 houses · dirndl / tracht, trachten haferlschuh shoe

Chopova Lowena · Simone Rocha

“Pointed front corselet panel with metal studs, like Alpine mieder hooks, in floral-striped cotton, worn over a full gathered skirt in a dirndl-like silhouette. Could equally be Austrian tracht.”

Japan → KoreaNeighbouring

2 looks · 2 houses · hanbok

Charinyeh* · Mizen*

“Very short cropped jacket over a high-waisted, voluminous bell-shaped long skirt, with long ribbon tie hanging from chest, echoing jeogori, goreum and chima proportions.”

Nigeria → GhanaNeighbouring

2 looks · 2 houses · bolga basket, bolga straw weaving, raffia / sisal fibre knotting

Cynthia Abila* · Garbe*

“Tightly coiled-woven elephant-grass style fan/half-moon bag with natural straw ground and bands of green, red-orange and dark dyed fibre, typical of Bolgatanga basketry and hand fans.”

Côte d’Ivoire → FulaniNeighbouring

2 looks · 1 house · fulani jewellery

Elie Kuame

“Multiple stacked strands of large gold beads, filigree-style spheres and lozenge pendants recalling Fulani/Wolof gold bead and filigree adornment; triangular pendant amulet-like.”

Côte d’Ivoire → YorubaNeighbouring

2 looks · 1 house · aso oke

Elie Kuame

“Narrow-strip-style woven stripes in tonal blues with small dotted supplementary weft and fringed selvedge ends; could also read as other West African strip-weave cloth.”

Germany → AustriaNeighbouring

2 looks · 1 house · trachten jacket / janker

GmbH

“Grey boiled-wool-like jacket with low stand collar, contrast piped edges, slit pockets and decorative metal buttons, typical Alpine janker (Austria or Bavaria); cropped, boxy proportions.”

Denmark → GermanyNeighbouring

2 looks · 1 house · dirndl / tracht

Cecilie Bahnsen

“Fitted square-neck bodice with criss-cross front lacing over a contrasting underlayer, full gathered skirt and a ribbon tied at the waist like a dirndl apron bow. Alpine dirndl tradition spans Germany and Austria.”

Ghana → YorubaNeighbouring

2 looks · 1 house · adire, aso oke

Christie Brown

“Indigo ground with white hand-drawn-looking hatched blocks, concentric arcs and line clusters arranged in a patchwork grid, like adire resist motifs, printed onto sheer chiffon.”

Belgium → AustriaNeighbouring

1 look · 1 house · dirndl / tracht

Julie Kegels

“Light-blue ground with vertical stripes of tiny flowers and star-shaped edelweiss-like blooms, recalling Alpine trachten/dirndl cotton prints; Germany and Switzerland also plausible.”

Switzerland → SpainNeighbouring

1 look · 1 house · traje de luces / matador

Germanier

“Short fitted jacket with sculpted, heavily gold-embellished shoulders, tight trousers ending below the knee, dark stockings and flat strapped shoes recall the bullfighter's suit of lights.”

Côte d’Ivoire → GhanaNeighbouring

1 look · 1 house · kente

Elie Kuame

“Strip-woven look with zigzag bands in yellow, red, blue and purple and blocked red rectangles, typical kente palette and motifs, tailored into a cropped Western jacket.”

France → AustriaNeighbouring

1 look · 1 house · trachten jacket / janker

Agnes B.

“Short fitted cream knit with bobble (Noppen) and twisted-stitch panels, tasselled neck tie and metal buttons, typical of Alpine Trachten cardigans (Austrian or Bavarian).”

Ireland → ScotlandNeighbouring

1 look · 1 house · tartan / kilt

Paul Costelloe

“Woven twill wool in a repeating symmetrical sett of brown, camel and dark overchecks; tartan-like plaid used head to toe in tailoring rather than as a kilt.”

Italy → BalkansNeighbouring

1 look · 1 house · gajtan / gold cord scroll appliqué

Fendi

“Couched gold cord in spiralling scrolls and vertical drops running down black front panels, like Balkan/Ottoman-Greek fermeli or jelek braidwork; Hungarian or Romanian readings also possible.”

Italy → GermanyNeighbouring

1 look · 1 house · lederhosen

Marni

“Grey leather short shorts with vertical piped zip/fly lines, contrast scalloped leather appliqué at hip pockets typical of lederhosen detailing, cut much shorter and slimmer than traditional.”

Japan → MongoliaNeighbouring

1 look · 1 house · deel

yoshiokubo

“Calf-length robe silhouette with high stand collar, full skirt gathered at the waist and contrasting cuff panels, reworked in technical nylon with a centre zip.”

South Korea → JapanNeighbouring

1 look · 1 house · red-crowned crane motif

Wooyoungmi

“Red-crowned cranes with black-tipped wings among pines, stylised scalloped cloud bands and gold sunburst flowers, recalling Japanese kimono and byōbu screen crane-and-pine imagery.”

Sweden → AustriaNeighbouring

1 look · 1 house · loden

Acne Studios

“Dense, felted, heathered moss-green wool with a matte milled surface typical of Alpine loden cloth. Cut as a plain city overcoat; domed contrast buttons faintly recall trachten buttons.”

Ukraine → SpainNeighbouring

1 look · 1 house · abanico hand fan

Nadya Dzyak

“Red pierced wooden-rib folding fan with hand-painted flowers on fabric leaf, the classic Spanish abanico, held open in flamenco-style pose”