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Cultural influences · SS27

Who borrowed from whom

Every pairing of a house and a tradition from outside the country it is based in: who drew on it, what they took, and the look that shows it.

47%Of referencing looks were borrowed
389Looks reached into another region
166Houses borrowed
24Countries they are based in

Where each look stands

1102 looks that drew on a tradition, by how the tradition relates to the house
  • From another region 389
  • From a neighbouring country 135
  • Home tradition or own region 472
  • Can't tell 146

Houses based in Italy

28 pairings, most looks first
  1. Capasa Milano Shoes Collection, look 13: tabi

    Italy → JapanAnother region

    18 looks · 7 houses · haori, kimono, tabi

    Giorgio Armani · Alberta Ferretti · Capasa Milano Shoes Collection · Act N°1 · Emporio Armani and 2 more

    “Visible split-toe construction separating the big toe from the other toes, derived from Japanese jika-tabi, reworked as black suede knee-high heeled boots with side zip.”

  2. Alanui, look 46: om symbol motif

    Italy → IndiaAnother region

    15 looks · 8 houses · kashmir shawl / pashmina, kolhapuri chappal, hand block print

    Loro Piana · LA Doublej · Etro · Alanui · Amato Daniele and 3 more

    “Repeated Devanagari Om (ॐ) glyph set inside radiating sunburst medallions on front panels and hem, knitted in tan-on-cream jacquard.”

  3. Borsalino, look 6: toquilla straw / panama hat

    Italy → EcuadorAnother region

    15 looks · 1 house · toquilla straw / panama hat

    Borsalino

    “Fine, dense, even hand-plaited pale straw with a visible spiral starting rosette at the crown, typical of Ecuadorian toquilla palm weaving. The fedora and boater shapes and grosgrain bands are Western.”

  4. Elena Miro', look 33: thistle kilt pin

    Italy → ScotlandNeighbouring

    13 looks · 6 houses · tartan / kilt, scottish thistle brooch, scottish thistle emblem

    Elena Miro' · Forte_forte · Fabio Quaranta · Etro · Kiton and 1 more

    “Silver pin topped with a Scottish thistle head and leaves; shaft has Celtic interlace knotwork, the classic kilt-pin form, here worn on a lapel.”

  5. Emporio Armani, look 75: adras / atlas ikat

    Italy → Central Asian (unspecified)Another region

    13 looks · 3 houses · adras / atlas ikat, ikat / patola

    Emporio Armani · Etro · Loro Piana

    “Large blurred-edge abstract motifs with feathered, streaky warp-direction outlines typical of ikat; neutral grey-cream palette; could also read as Indian or Southeast Asian ikat.”

  6. Giorgio Armani, look 39: sfifa braid trim

    Italy → MoroccoAnother region

    8 looks · 4 houses · babouche, sfifa braid trim, gandoura / jabador

    Capasa Milano Shoes Collection · Giorgio Armani · Emporio Armani · Fendi

    “Scrolling corded passementerie braid running down the centre front opening and around the standing collar, as in Moroccan sfifa trim on caftans and jabadors.”

  7. Giorgio Armani, look 152: pankou / frog closures

    Italy → ChinaAnother region

    7 looks · 3 houses · pankou / frog closures, tang jacket, chinese silk brocade

    Giorgio Armani · Act N°1 · Amato Daniele

    “Horizontal fabric knot-and-loop fastenings set down the centre front in place of buttonholes, the characteristic Chinese pankou closure, done tone-on-tone in black.”

  8. Alanui, look 20: navajo / dine weaving pattern

    Italy → Native American (unspecified)Another region

    7 looks · 2 houses · navajo / dine weaving pattern, beadwork, turquoise and silver jewellery

    Alanui · Dolce&Gabbana

    “Jacquard knit with stepped serrated diamonds, arrow forms and Greek-key bands in red, cream, tan and charcoal, recalling Southwestern/Diné-style or Pendleton trade-blanket patterning.”

  9. Loro Piana, look 61: cordobes hat

    Italy → SpainNeighbouring

    5 looks · 4 houses · cordobes hat, espadrille / alpargata, manton de manila

    Loro Piana · Dolce&Gabbana · Eleventy · Forte_forte

    “Black felt hat with a flat-topped cylindrical crown and stiff, flat, very wide brim. This is the cordobés shape, with the brim exaggerated in proportion.”

  10. LA Doublej, look 54: celtic insular knotwork / zoomorphic interlace

    Italy → IrelandNeighbouring

    5 looks · 3 houses · irish crochet lace, celtic insular knotwork / zoomorphic interlace, celtic interlace / insular knotwork

    LA Doublej · Alanui · Dolce&Gabbana

    “Vertical bands of interlaced zoomorphic beasts with biting heads, triskele-like spirals and trumpet curves typical of Insular manuscript art (Book of Kells style); could equally be Scottish/Pictish Celtic.”

  11. Alessandro Enriquez, look 34: greek black-figure vase painting motif

    Italy → GreeceNeighbouring

    5 looks · 1 house · greek key meander and amphora motif, ancient greek vase / column motif, classical greek vase and column motifs

    Alessandro Enriquez

    “All-over print of amphorae, palmettes, scrolling foliage and Greek key meander bands, black on ochre-orange like ancient Greek black-figure pottery.”

  12. Marni, look 37: trachten jacket / janker

    Italy → AustriaNeighbouring

    4 looks · 4 houses · trachten jacket / janker, trachten silver buttons and cord trim

    Blazé Milano · Eleventy · Ermanno Scervino · Marni

    “Dark boiled-wool-like jacket with contrasting braided cord trim along lapels, edges and cuffs, metal dome buttons; oversized proportions rework the Alpine janker.”

  13. Loro Piana, look 66: cossack fur hat / papakha

    Italy → RussiaNeighbouring

    4 looks · 1 house · papakha / cossack fur hat, cossack fur hat / papakha, russian fur hat / papakha

    Loro Piana

    “Tall brimless cylindrical black fur hat with a flat crown, worn low on the brow, in the Cossack papakha shape.”

  14. Emporio Armani, look 85: ikat / patola

    Italy → South Asian (unspecified)Another region

    3 looks · 3 houses · ikat / patola, kurta, salwar / shalwar kameez

    Emporio Armani · Fendi · Moschino

    “Woven upper with blurred, feathered-edge grey chevron and flame shapes typical of warp-resist ikat; could equally be Central Asian or Southeast Asian ikat.”

  15. Eleventy, look 49: turquoise and silver jewellery

    Italy → Diné (Navajo)Another region

    3 looks · 2 houses · navajo / dine weaving pattern, turquoise and silver jewellery

    Alanui · Eleventy

    “Concho belt: series of oval stamped silver-tone conchos with scalloped edges, scroll repoussé motifs and turquoise centres on a leather strap, plus a matching oval concho buckle.”

  16. Giorgio Armani, look 33: crossed-collar wrap top

    Italy → East Asian (unspecified)Another region

    3 looks · 2 houses · chinese silk brocade, cloud scroll motif, crossed-collar wrap top

    Giorgio Armani · Loro Piana

    “Narrow band collar crossing diagonally at the throat over a wrapped front panel. Recalls Korean jeogori, Chinese hanfu jiaoling or kimono collar; the exact source is ambiguous.”

  17. Borsalino, look 46: fez / tarboosh

    Italy → Middle Eastern (unspecified)Another region

    2 looks · 2 houses · fez / tarboosh, kilim / persian carpet motif

    Borsalino · Etro

    “Brimless, flat-topped, slightly tapered cylindrical cap with possible small tassel tab at side; reworked in glossy satin. Could read as Ottoman/Moroccan fez or a kufi-style cap.”

  18. Moschino, look 31: alpaca motif

    Italy → AndeanAnother region

    1 look · 1 house · alpaca motif

    Moschino

    “Two appliquéd alpaca/llama silhouettes, one black and one cream, on the bodice; camelids are an emblematic Andean motif.”

  19. Fendi, look 31: gajtan / gold cord scroll appliqué

    Italy → BalkansNeighbouring

    1 look · 1 house · gajtan / gold cord scroll appliqué

    Fendi

    “Couched gold cord in spiralling scrolls and vertical drops running down black front panels, like Balkan/Ottoman-Greek fermeli or jelek braidwork; Hungarian or Romanian readings also possible.”

  20. Marni, look 41: lederhosen

    Italy → GermanyNeighbouring

    1 look · 1 house · lederhosen

    Marni

    “Grey leather short shorts with vertical piped zip/fly lines, contrast scalloped leather appliqué at hip pockets typical of lederhosen detailing, cut much shorter and slimmer than traditional.”

  21. Etro, look 22: kilim / persian carpet motif

    Italy → IranAnother region

    1 look · 1 house · kilim / persian carpet motif

    Etro

    “Large central medallion with scalloped border and pendant forms, rosettes and arabesque floral fill on a dark ground, laid out like a Persian carpet field.”

  22. Daniela Gregis, look 47: jogakbo / bojagi patchwork

    Italy → KoreaAnother region

    1 look · 1 house · jogakbo / bojagi patchwork

    Daniela Gregis

    “Sheer, translucent rectangular panels pieced in irregular geometric blocks with thin visible seam lines and colour overlaps, like bojagi in ramie or silk gauze. Could also be generic patchwork.”

  23. Fabiana Filippi, look 35: barong tagalog

    Italy → PhilippinesAnother region

    1 look · 1 house · barong tagalog

    Fabiana Filippi

    “Sheer, translucent ecru collared button-front shirt with dense tone-on-tone raised embroidery across the body, recalling barong tagalog's sheer embroidered formal shirt.”

  24. Dolce&Gabbana, look 48: turquoise and silver jewellery

    Italy → PuebloAnother region

    1 look · 1 house · turquoise and silver jewellery

    Dolce&Gabbana

    “Turquoise cabochon-like stones set in rows along the front edges and in radiating sunburst clusters, recalling Zuni cluster or needlepoint turquoise jewellery, transferred onto knitwear.”

  25. Fabiana Filippi, look 11: sarong

    Italy → Southeast Asian (unspecified)Another region

    1 look · 1 house · sarong

    Fabiana Filippi

    “Printed cloth wrapped as a straight sarong over full-length trousers, with a vertical bordered panel like a kepala, recalling Malay kain samping layering. Could also be a generic scarf-skirt.”

  26. Loro Piana, look 33: mevlevi sikke (dervish felt hat)

    Italy → TurkeyAnother region

    1 look · 1 house · mevlevi sikke (dervish felt hat)

    Loro Piana

    “Tall, rigid, camel felt hat with a truncated-cone shape that flares slightly, closely recalling the Mevlevi dervish sikke.”

  27. Borsalino, look 55: wayuu tapestry crochet

    Italy → WayuuAnother region

    1 look · 1 house · wayuu tapestry crochet

    Borsalino

    “Tight single-crochet construction with colour-changed geometric diamonds, chevrons and stepped triangles in red, orange and yellow, like Wayuu mochila kanaas patterning, adapted to raffia.”

  28. Alanui, look 32: cowrie shells

    Italy → West African (unspecified)Another region

    1 look · 1 house · cowrie shells

    Alanui

    “Cowrie shells strung on a beaded necklace; cowrie adornment also common in other regions, so attribution is uncertain.”

By where the house is based

Looks drawing on another country's tradition, and the traditions drawn on most

  • Italy139 looks · 27 houses

    Japan (18) · India (15) · Ecuador (15) · Central Asian (unspecified) (13)

  • France75 looks · 21 houses

    Japan (23) · Scotland (17) · China (17) · Spain (7)

  • Japan56 looks · 24 houses

    Scotland (26) · China (13) · Spain (4) · Mexico (3)

  • Denmark52 looks · 16 houses

    India (15) · China (10) · Scotland (9) · Spain (5)

  • United States50 looks · 16 houses

    Scotland (15) · India (9) · Ghana (6) · Spain (5)

  • Nigeria29 looks · 14 houses

    Morocco (7) · China (6) · Japan (3) · Mali (3)

  • Germany25 looks · 9 houses

    China (13) · Spain (5) · Austria (2) · Japan (2)

  • Belgium24 looks · 3 houses

    Scotland (8) · Andean (7) · India (7) · Austria (1)

  • United Kingdom20 looks · 9 houses

    West African (unspecified) (4) · Japan (4) · Spain (3) · Andean (2)

  • South Africa9 looks · 2 houses

    Japan (4) · West African (unspecified) (3) · Mali (2) · Fulani (1)

  • Lebanon8 looks · 2 houses

    India (7) · China (1)

  • Côte d’Ivoire5 looks · 1 house

    Fulani (2) · Yoruba (2) · Ghana (1) · South Asian (unspecified) (1)

  • Mexico5 looks · 4 houses

    Japan (2) · China (1) · Korea (1) · Spain (1)

  • South Korea5 looks · 1 house

    European (unspecified) (2) · Austria (1) · Japan (1) · Russia (1)

  • Brazil4 looks · 3 houses

    China (1) · European (unspecified) (1) · Japan (1) · Palestine (1)

  • China3 looks · 3 houses

    Japan (3)

  • India3 looks · 2 houses

    Cambodia (1) · Scotland (1) · Spain (1)

  • Sweden2 looks · 2 houses

    Austria (1) · Korea (1)

  • Netherlands2 looks · 2 houses

    Japan (1) · West African (unspecified) (1)

  • Ghana2 looks · 1 house

    Yoruba (2)

By tradition

Looks by houses based elsewhere, and where those houses are based

  • Scotland91 looks · 9 countries

    Japan (26) · France (17) · United States (15) · Italy (13)

  • China72 looks · 11 countries

    France (17) · Japan (13) · Germany (13) · Denmark (10)

  • Japan68 looks · 13 countries

    France (23) · Italy (18) · Denmark (4) · United Kingdom (4)

  • India59 looks · 8 countries

    Denmark (15) · Italy (15) · United States (9) · Lebanon (7)

  • Spain39 looks · 12 countries

    France (7) · Denmark (5) · Germany (5) · Italy (5)

  • Morocco17 looks · 3 countries

    Italy (8) · Nigeria (7) · France (2)

  • Ecuador16 looks · 2 countries

    Italy (15) · United Kingdom (1)

  • Central Asian (unspecified)16 looks · 2 countries

    Italy (13) · Denmark (3)

  • South Asian (unspecified)13 looks · 8 countries

    Denmark (4) · Italy (3) · Germany (1) · France (1)

  • Austria12 looks · 7 countries

    Italy (4) · Germany (2) · United States (2) · France (1)

  • West African (unspecified)11 looks · 6 countries

    United Kingdom (4) · South Africa (3) · France (1) · Italy (1)

  • Native American (unspecified)10 looks · 3 countries

    Italy (7) · Japan (2) · United Kingdom (1)

  • East Asian (unspecified)10 looks · 5 countries

    Italy (3) · United States (3) · France (2) · Denmark (1)

  • Andean10 looks · 3 countries

    Belgium (7) · United Kingdom (2) · Italy (1)

  • Ghana9 looks · 3 countries

    United States (6) · Nigeria (2) · Côte d’Ivoire (1)

  • Mexico8 looks · 4 countries

    Japan (3) · United States (3) · Belgium (1) · France (1)

  • Middle Eastern (unspecified)6 looks · 4 countries

    Italy (2) · Nigeria (2) · Denmark (1) · United Kingdom (1)

  • Yoruba5 looks · 3 countries

    Côte d’Ivoire (2) · Ghana (2) · Denmark (1)

  • Germany5 looks · 3 countries

    Denmark (2) · United Kingdom (2) · Italy (1)

  • Greece5 looks · 1 country

    Italy (5)

How each look is placed

  • Another region From another region
  • Neighbouring From a neighbouring country
  • Home tradition The house's own tradition
  • Own region From the house's own region
  • Can't tell Indigenous tradition, on the house's home ground
  • Base unknown House base not recorded

* Base inferred from the national fashion week the house shows at; the house has no recorded base.

How we read it

Read from the runway photographs by our AI tagger: an element counts when it is recognisably drawn from a specific dress or craft tradition and the tagger is at least 60% confident. It describes the clothes only, never the person wearing them, and it is not a statement by the house.

A look is borrowed when the house that showed it is based outside the country the tradition comes from. We compare the house's base (recorded, or inferred from the one national fashion week it shows at) with the tradition the tagger named. Traditions the tagger could only place by region, such as “West African”, count as borrowed only when the house is based outside that region. For Indigenous traditions a house based on the same territory may or may not belong to the community, so those looks are marked “can’t tell”. A house’s base says nothing about its designers’ own heritage, and borrowing is not a verdict: it can be collaboration, homage or appropriation, which the photographs can’t show.

← Cultural influences