Cultural influences · SS27
Southeast Asia
14 looks from 6 houses drew on Southeast Asia traditions: 1 in 84 shows this season.
Who borrowed it
Every pairing →6 of the 14 looks came from houses based outside the tradition's home country, 6 of them from another region of the world.
- From another region 6
- Can't tell 8
Which cultures
Share of the region's 14 looks. “Unspecified” when the element is shared across the region.
What kind of reference
The elements
Looks drawing on each, and the houses that showed it- Batik · print / dye technique · Java5 looks
- Non la conical hat · headwear3 looks
- Sarong · draping / silhouette2 looks
- Pina cloth · textile / weave1 look
- Barong tagalog · garment form1 look
- Tanjak / tengkolok folded headcloth · headwear1 look
- Bayon multi-face motif · motif · Angkor (Bayon)1 look
- Blangkon headcloth · headwear · Java1 look
On the runway
Up to three looks per house, strongest first
Absent Findings · Look 40 · Milan
- Batik
- Blangkon headcloth
Base unknown
“Brown, rust and cream sogan-type palette with curling cloud and scroll motifs typical of Javanese batik, on the pleated band of the cap.”
Impari · Look 19 · Berlin
- Non la conical hat
Germany → Southeast Asian (unspecified)
“Wide shallow conical hat with radial ribbing and chin tie, recoloured glossy pink; closest to Vietnamese non la, though Chinese douli or other Asian conical hats are alternatives.”
Issey Miyake · Look 36 · Paris
- Non la conical hat
Japan → Southeast Asian (unspecified)
“Wide, shallow conical hat in tightly woven pale straw. Reads as Vietnamese non la, though Chinese douli or Japanese sugegasa forms are similar. Rendered in a refined woven texture.”
Absent Findings · Look 13 · Milan
- Tabi
- Batik
Base unknown
“Black leather footwear with clearly visible split toe separating big toe from the others, the defining tabi feature, reworked as Western leather boot.”
Absent Findings · Look 38 · Milan
- Batik
Base unknown
“Pleated band in sogan brown, rust and dark brown with curling ornamental scroll motifs typical of Javanese batik colouring and patterning.”
Issey Miyake · Look 32 · Paris
- Non la conical hat
Japan → Southeast Asian (unspecified)
“Wide, shallow, rigid conical crown with a broad sloping brim, made in pleated navy fabric. It could equally echo a Japanese sugegasa or Chinese douli.”
Rahul Mishra · Look 8 · Paris
- Bayon multi-face motif
India → Cambodia
“Oversized collar of repeated serene carved faces in lobed, tower-like frames radiating around a central face. This recalls Bayon's face towers, though Hindu-Buddhist multi-headed deity imagery is an alternative reading.”
Koday · Look 21 · Milan
- Pina cloth
Base unknown
“Sheer, crisp, slightly slubby translucent fibre fabric typical of piña or jusi, with mother-of-pearl buttons, used for a short-sleeved camp-collar shirt rather than a barong.”
Fabiana Filippi · Look 11 · Milan
- Sarong
Italy → Southeast Asian (unspecified)
“Printed cloth wrapped as a straight sarong over full-length trousers, with a vertical bordered panel like a kepala, recalling Malay kain samping layering. Could also be a generic scarf-skirt.”
Fabiana Filippi · Look 35 · Milan
- Barong tagalog
Italy → Philippines
“Sheer, translucent ecru collared button-front shirt with dense tone-on-tone raised embroidery across the body, recalling barong tagalog's sheer embroidered formal shirt.”
The houses
6 houses, by looks drawing on Southeast Asia traditionsFrom another region
- Fabiana Filippi · 2 looks · barong tagalog, sarong Italy
- Issey Miyake · 2 looks · non la conical hat Japan
- Impari · 1 look · non la conical hat Germany*
- Rahul Mishra · 1 look · bayon multi-face motif India
House base not recorded
- Absent Findings · 7 looks · batik, blangkon headcloth, sarong
- Koday · 1 look · pina cloth
Where it was shown
Share of each fashion week's looksHow we read it
Read from the runway photographs by our AI tagger: an element counts when it is recognisably drawn from a specific dress or craft tradition and the tagger is at least 60% confident. It describes the clothes only, never the person wearing them, and it is not a statement by the house.
A look is borrowed when the house that showed it is based outside the country the tradition comes from. We compare the house's base (recorded, or inferred from the one national fashion week it shows at) with the tradition the tagger named. Traditions the tagger could only place by region, such as “West African”, count as borrowed only when the house is based outside that region. For Indigenous traditions a house based on the same territory may or may not belong to the community, so those looks are marked “can’t tell”. A house’s base says nothing about its designers’ own heritage, and borrowing is not a verdict: it can be collaboration, homage or appropriation, which the photographs can’t show.