Cultural influences · SS27
South Asia
180 looks from 32 houses drew on South Asia traditions: 1 in 19 shows this season.
Who borrowed it
Every pairing →71 of the 180 looks came from houses based outside the tradition's home country, 71 of them from another region of the world.
- From another region 71
- Home tradition or own region 59
- Can't tell 52
Which cultures
Share of the region's 180 looks. “Unspecified” when the element is shared across the region.
What kind of reference
The elements
Looks drawing on each, and the houses that showed it- Zardozi · embroidery / embellishment47 looks
Anamika Khanna · Cucculelli Shaheen · Dries Van Noten · Franck Sorbier · Kitschy Couture · La Bagatelle · Rahul Mishra · Zuhair Murad
- Jhumka · jewellery / adornment28 looks
- Hand block print · print / dye technique23 looks
Absent Findings · Altuzarra · Elena Miro' · Etro · La Bagatelle · Massimo Alba
- Mughal floral · motif12 looks
- Maang tikka · jewellery / adornment11 looks
- Sherwani / achkan · garment form11 looks
- Bindi · jewellery / adornment8 looks
- Lehenga / ghagra choli · garment form8 looks
- Jutti / mojari · footwear8 looks
- Kurta · garment form7 looks
Absent Findings · Anamika Khanna · Elie Kuame · Fendi · Prabal Gurung
- Ikat / patola · print / dye technique7 looks
Absent Findings · Caro Editions · Emporio Armani · Keiko Nishiyama · La Bagatelle
- Sari drape · draping / silhouette7 looks
Alexis Mabille · Anamika Khanna · Kitschy Couture · Rahul Mishra · The Royal Danish Academy
- Kundan / polki · jewellery / adornment7 looks
- Bandhgala / nehru jacket · garment form6 looks
- Dhoti drape · draping / silhouette6 looks
- Kashmir shawl / pashmina · motif · Kashmir5 looks
- Mirror work / shisha · embroidery / embellishment · Kutch, Gujarat5 looks
- Banarasi brocade · textile / weave4 looks
- Kolhapuri chappal · footwear4 looks
- Kutch / rabari embroidery · embroidery / embellishment · Kutch, Gujarat4 looks
- Oxidised silver tribal jewellery · jewellery / adornment4 looks
- Nath / nose ring · jewellery / adornment4 looks
- Sari border · motif3 looks
- Dupatta drape · draping / silhouette3 looks
- Temple jewellery · jewellery / adornment3 looks
- Indian miniature painting · motif3 looks
- Hasli / torque collar · jewellery / adornment3 looks
- Dupatta · garment form2 looks
- Ghoonghat veil · draping / silhouette2 looks
- Pagri / safa turban · headwear2 looks
- Anarkali · garment form2 looks
- Vintage textile patchwork · textile / weave2 looks
- Kirita mukuta crown · headwear2 looks
- Mehndi / henna patterning · embroidery / embellishment1 look
- Dori / cord embroidery · embroidery / embellishment1 look
- Mughal pavilion / chhatri motif · motif1 look
- Churidar · garment form1 look
- Om symbol motif · motif1 look
- Chikankari · embroidery / embellishment1 look
- Payal / anklets · jewellery / adornment1 look
On the runway
Up to three looks per house, strongest first
Kitschy Couture · Look 5 · Berlin
- Sari
- Sari drape
- Bindi
Germany → India
“Sheer pale-blue length of cloth with wide contrasting navy embroidered border, draped from waist over shoulder as pallu in classic nivi manner.”
Anamika Khanna · Look 26 · New Delhi
- Maang tikka
- Zardozi
- Dhoti drape
Home tradition
“Jewelled pendant centred on the forehead, suspended from a chain along the hair parting, joined to a jewelled headband.”
Anamika Khanna · Look 6 · New Delhi
- Sherwani / achkan
- Indian miniature painting
Home tradition
“Knee-length fitted coat with stand collar, concealed centre-front closure, long sleeves and straight flared skirt, the classic sherwani silhouette.”
Absent Findings · Look 91 · Milan
- Jhumka
Base unknown
“Gold bell-shaped dome drop earrings with granulated surface and studded tops, classic jhumka construction.”
Absent Findings · Look 92 · Milan
- Jhumka
Base unknown
“Gold bell-shaped dome drop earrings with granulated detailing and small stud tops, the classic jhumka form.”
Absent Findings · Look 93 · Milan
- Jhumka
Base unknown
“Gold bell-shaped dome drop earrings with granulated surface and stud top, the classic jhumka form.”
Prabal Gurung · Look 33 · New York
- Bindi
United States → South Asian (unspecified)
“Round red dot placed centrally between the brows, worn in the traditional position.”
Anamika Khanna · Look 11 · New Delhi
- Maang tikka
- Nath / nose ring
- Kundan / polki
Home tradition
“Jewelled pendant centred on forehead from a parting chain, extended into a full head-framing matha patti style chain set.”
Alanui · Look 46 · Milan
- Om symbol motif
- Navajo / dine weaving pattern
Italy → India
“Repeated Devanagari Om (ॐ) glyph set inside radiating sunburst medallions on front panels and hem, knitted in tan-on-cream jacquard.”
Maxivive · Look 5 · Milan
- Peshawari chappal
Base unknown
“Dark leather sandals with broad crossed vamp straps, heel strap and thick upturned rimmed sole: the classic Peshawari chappal construction.”
Prabal Gurung · Look 4 · New York
- Bindi
United States → India
“Red teardrop-shaped mark centred on the forehead between the brows, a stylised bindi form. Applied as runway makeup, not a traditional dot.”
Prabal Gurung · Look 39 · New York
- Bindi
United States → India
“Round red bindi dot placed centrally on the forehead between the brows, styled with the gown. The feather gown and strappy sandals carry no cultural reference.”
Rahul Mishra · Look 35 · Paris
- Zardozi
- Kundan / polki
- Mughal floral
Home tradition
“Dense raised gold metallic thread, sequin and bead work in scrolls on the wide waistband and skirt, typical of zardozi.”
La Bagatelle · Look 22 · Copenhagen
- Hand block print
- Campero boots
- Mughal floral
Denmark → India
“Repeated isolated flowering-plant buta motifs in red and green, set on a striped ground, with the slightly irregular registration typical of Indian hand block printing.”
La Bagatelle · Look 13 · Copenhagen
- Hand block print
- Mughal floral
Denmark → India
“Repeated small floral buta stamps in staggered rows with slight registration irregularities and an indigo-teal ground, typical of Indian hand block printing.”
Kitschy Couture · Look 4 · Berlin
- Lehenga / ghagra choli
- Dupatta
- Zardozi
Germany → India
“Fitted fuchsia raw-silk choli-style cropped blouse with tie-back strings and tasselled latkan ties, reworked with a teal ruffled peplum.”
Cucculelli Shaheen · Look 10 · New York
- Lehenga / ghagra choli
- Zardozi
United States → India
“Fitted cropped choli-style blouse with bared midriff over a floor-length gathered skirt with embellished waistband; reworked in tulle with strappy sleeveless bodice.”
Dries Van Noten · Look 37 · Paris
- Zardozi
- Zardozi
Belgium → India
“Raised gold metallic-thread embroidery with padded, coiled couching and dangling gold threads forming a large buta-like motif on black wool skirt.”
Amato Daniele · Look 32 · Milan
- Caparisoned elephant motif
- Mughal pavilion / chhatri motif
Italy → India
“Elephant draped in red embroidered jhool cloth with tassels, among trees and birds, an Indian miniature-painting style scene.”
La Bagatelle · Look 2 · Copenhagen
- Hand block print
Denmark → India
“Small repeated buta-like medallions in indigo and red on a dense beige ground with fine dotted fill, slight registration irregularity typical of Indian hand block printing.”
Dries Van Noten · Look 61 · Paris
- Zardozi
Belgium → India
“Raised gold metallic thread and coiled-wire embroidered appliqué motifs and bands on chest, waist, cuffs and hem, characteristic of zardozi goldwork.”
Capasa Milano Shoes Collection · Look 57 · Milan
- Kolhapuri chappal
Italy → India
“T-strap toe-post thong with folded central strap and double crossover strap, flat leather construction; reworked with a kitten/wedge heel and plain black leather, no braiding.”
LA Doublej · Look 73 · Milan
- Kolhapuri chappal
Italy → India
“Flat leather slide with wide vamp band and separate big-toe ring loop, punched/scalloped decorative leather edges; reworked in turquoise leather with oversized crystals.”
LA Doublej · Look 71 · Milan
- Kolhapuri chappal
Italy → India
“Flat leather slide with separate big-toe ring loop and wide vamp band; punched/scalloped edge decoration recalls Kolhapuri cutwork. Reworked in green leather with oversized crystals.”
Rahul Mishra · Look 5 · Paris
- Temple jewellery
- Dhoti drape
- Kirita mukuta crown
Home tradition
“Tiered layered necklaces, pendant medallions, ornate waist girdle (oddiyanam-like) and armbands rendered in beadwork, mimicking jewellery carved on Indian temple sculpture.”
Dries Van Noten · Look 38 · Paris
- Zardozi
- Zardozi
Belgium → India
“Bands of raised gold metallic-thread floral and scroll embroidery with dense couched work along the skirt tiers and hem, typical of zardozi borders.”
Cucculelli Shaheen · Look 1 · New York
- Lehenga / ghagra choli
United States → India
“Fitted cropped embroidered blouse leaving midriff bare over a floor-length, heavily flared embroidered skirt with decorative waistband, worn with a sheer embroidered overlay.”
Elena Miro' · Look 8 · Milan
- Hand block print
Italy → India
“Repeated stamped-looking buta and rosette motifs with slight registration irregularity, madder red, maroon and ecru palette typical of Indian block-printed cotton, arranged in diagonal bands.”
Loro Piana · Look 54 · Milan
- Banarasi brocade
Italy → India
“Black ground with metallic copper-gold supplementary weft roundels in diagonal repeat; striped border panel near hem resembling a sari pallu/border.”
Rahul Mishra · Look 18 · Paris
- Dhoti drape
- Temple jewellery
Home tradition
“Lower garment gathered at waist into cascading vertical pleats with a draped front swag and side slit, echoing dhoti/sari pleating rather than a Western skirt.”
The Royal Danish Academy · Look 53 · Copenhagen
- Sari drape
Denmark → India
“Printed cloth swept diagonally over one shoulder like a pallu, gathered in pleated folds at the hip and falling into the lower garment, worn over a blazer.”
Cucculelli Shaheen · Look 16 · New York
- Zardozi
United States → India
“Dense raised silver metallic-thread and bead embroidery in radiating, lattice and scalloped patterns on navy ground, plus scattered small embroidered buta-like sprigs on trousers.”
LA Doublej · Look 72 · Milan
- Kolhapuri chappal
Italy → India
“Flat tan leather sole with visible edge stitching, big-toe loop, and a broad vamp strap with punched and cut-out decoration, all features of Kolhapuri chappals. Reworked in black leather with pink leather tassels.”
Emporio Armani · Look 85 · Milan
- Ikat / patola
Italy → South Asian (unspecified)
“Woven upper with blurred, feathered-edge grey chevron and flame shapes typical of warp-resist ikat; could equally be Central Asian or Southeast Asian ikat.”
Maxivive · Look 2 · Milan
- Mirror work / shisha
Base unknown
“Small round mirrors set into the black knit bag, each held by a stitched circular thread surround, as in shisha embroidery. Reworked on a knitted Western chain-strap bag.”
Caro Editions · Look 12 · Copenhagen
- Ikat / patola
- Ikat / patola
Denmark → South Asian (unspecified)
“Turquoise ground with pink and orange arrow/flame motifs with soft, bleeding edges, resembling Indian handloom ikat; Central or Southeast Asian ikat also possible.”
The houses
32 houses, by looks drawing on South Asia traditionsFrom another region
- La Bagatelle · 16 looks · aari / tambour embroidery, hand block print, ikat / patola Denmark*
- Dries Van Noten · 8 looks · zardozi Belgium
- Zuhair Murad · 7 looks · kundan / polki, maang tikka, zardozi Lebanon
- Loro Piana · 5 looks · banarasi brocade, kashmir shawl / pashmina Italy
- Prabal Gurung · 5 looks · bindi, kurta United States
- Cucculelli Shaheen · 4 looks · lehenga / ghagra choli, zardozi United States
- LA Doublej · 3 looks · kolhapuri chappal Italy
- Etro · 2 looks · hand block print, kashmir shawl / pashmina Italy
- Franck Sorbier · 2 looks · rudraksha / prayer bead mala, zardozi France
- Kitschy Couture · 2 looks · bindi, dupatta, latkan tassels Germany*
- Alanui · 1 look · om symbol motif Italy
- Alexis Mabille · 1 look · sari drape France
- Altuzarra · 1 look · hand block print United States
- Amato Daniele · 1 look · caparisoned elephant motif, mughal pavilion / chhatri motif Italy
- Capasa Milano Shoes Collection · 1 look · kolhapuri chappal Italy
- Caro Editions · 1 look · ikat / patola Denmark
- Dior · 1 look · banarasi brocade France
- Elena Miro' · 1 look · hand block print Italy
- Elie Kuame · 1 look · kurta Côte d’Ivoire
- Emporio Armani · 1 look · ikat / patola Italy
- Fendi · 1 look · kurta Italy
- Keiko Nishiyama · 1 look · ikat / patola Japan
- Massimo Alba · 1 look · hand block print Italy
- Moschino · 1 look · salwar / shalwar kameez Italy
- Orange Culture · 1 look · bandhgala / nehru jacket Nigeria
- The Garment · 1 look · chikankari Denmark
- The Royal Danish Academy · 1 look · sari drape Denmark
Home tradition or own region
- Anamika Khanna · 51 looks · anarkali, banarasi brocade, bandhgala / nehru jacket India
- Rahul Mishra · 6 looks · dhoti drape, ghoonghat veil, jhumka India
House base not recorded
- Absent Findings · 49 looks · banarasi brocade, dupatta drape, hand block print
- Maxivive · 2 looks · mirror work / shisha, peshawari chappal
- Raimondi · 1 look · bandhgala / nehru jacket
Where it was shown
Share of each fashion week's looksHow we read it
Read from the runway photographs by our AI tagger: an element counts when it is recognisably drawn from a specific dress or craft tradition and the tagger is at least 60% confident. It describes the clothes only, never the person wearing them, and it is not a statement by the house.
A look is borrowed when the house that showed it is based outside the country the tradition comes from. We compare the house's base (recorded, or inferred from the one national fashion week it shows at) with the tradition the tagger named. Traditions the tagger could only place by region, such as “West African”, count as borrowed only when the house is based outside that region. For Indigenous traditions a house based on the same territory may or may not belong to the community, so those looks are marked “can’t tell”. A house’s base says nothing about its designers’ own heritage, and borrowing is not a verdict: it can be collaboration, homage or appropriation, which the photographs can’t show.