Cultural influences · SS27
European folk & regional dress
206 looks from 77 houses drew on European folk & regional dress traditions: 1 in 8 shows this season.
Who made them
Looks by where the house is based- Houses based in the region 118
- Houses based elsewhere 59
- House base not recorded 29
Which cultures
Share of the region's 206 looks. “Unspecified” when the element is shared across the region.
What kind of reference
The elements
Looks drawing on each, and the houses that showed it- Tartan / kilt · garment form97 looks
Agnes B. · Anna Sui · Anne Sofie Madsen · Auralee · Chopova Lowena · Comme Des Garçons Homme Plus · Dhruv Kapoor · Dice Kayek and 26 more
- Manton de manila · draping / silhouette · Andalusia19 looks
Alice YU · Anna Sui · Forte_forte · Franck Sorbier · Kallmeyer · Kenzo · OpéraSport · Temperley London and 1 more
- Trachten jacket / janker · garment form9 looks
Agnes B. · Blazé Milano · Eleventy · Ermanno Scervino · GmbH · Marni · Oscar de la Renta · Wooyoungmi
- Traje de flamenca · draping / silhouette · Andalusia8 looks
Carolina Herrera · Dior · Julie de Libran · Junya Watanabe Man · Sson · Valette Studio
- Cornicello / cornuto amulet · jewellery / adornment · Naples / Southern Italy, Naples, Campania, Naples, Southern Italy7 looks
- Dirndl / tracht · garment form5 looks
Cecilie Bahnsen · Chopova Lowena · Julie Kegels · Oscar de la Renta
- Traje de luces / matador · embroidery / embellishment4 looks
- Cordobes hat · headwear · Andalusia4 looks
- Papakha / cossack fur hat · headwear4 looks
- Lederhosen · garment form · Bavaria / Alpine region3 looks
- Celtic knotwork · motif2 looks
- Mantilla and peineta · headwear2 looks
- Irish crochet lace · embroidery / embellishment2 looks
- Espadrille / alpargata · footwear2 looks
- Vyshyvanka / slavic embroidery · embroidery / embellishment2 looks
- Sicilian black headscarf · headwear · Sicily2 looks
- Campero boots · footwear · Andalusia2 looks
- Greek key meander and amphora motif · motif2 looks
- Eastern european folk costume blouse and pleated skirt · garment form1 look
- Eastern european folk woven bands · textile / weave1 look
- Embroidered sheepskin folk waistcoat · garment form1 look
- Espadrille · footwear1 look
- Classical greek vase and column motifs · motif1 look
- Folk cross-stitch panel · embroidery / embellishment1 look
- Folk cross-stitch sampler embroidery · embroidery / embellishment1 look
- Folk waistcoat with ornamental clasps · garment form1 look
- Gajtan / gold cord scroll appliqué · embroidery / embellishment1 look
- Greek black-figure vase painting motif · motif1 look
- Alpine trachten shoe / haferlschuh · footwear1 look
- Harris tweed · textile / weave · Outer Hebrides1 look
- Highland argyll jacket · garment form1 look
- Celtic triskele / spiral motif · motif1 look
- Celtic spiral / triskele motif · motif1 look
- Loden · textile / weave1 look
- Lunares polka dots · motif · Andalusia1 look
- Celtic knotwork interlace · motif1 look
- Celtic knot and spiral motif · motif1 look
- Celtic interlace / insular knotwork · motif1 look
- Russian fur hat / papakha · headwear1 look
- Scottish thistle brooch · jewellery / adornment1 look
On the runway
Up to three looks per house, strongest first
Alice YU · Look 22 · Milan
- Manton de manila
- Shawl draped open over shoulders
“Large silk shawl with dense polychrome floral silk embroidery (roses, peonies), knotted macramé-style net border and very long silk fringe, typical mantón de Manila construction.”
Elena Miro' · Look 33 · Milan
- Thistle kilt pin
- Celtic knotwork
“Silver pin topped with a Scottish thistle head and leaves; shaft has Celtic interlace knotwork, the classic kilt-pin form, here worn on a lapel.”
Elena Miro' · Look 35 · Milan
- Scottish thistle brooch
- Tam o' shanter / balmoral bonnet
“Silver pin cast as a thistle: cross-hatched globular head, spiky flower crown and curling leaves, the Scottish national emblem typical of traditional Scottish silver brooches and cap badges.”
Ulla Johnson · Look 14 · New York
- Manton de manila
- Manton de manila
“Cream silk with tone-on-tone floral embroidery, hand-knotted macramé lattice border (reja) and long silk fringe, the hallmarks of the manton de manila shawl, recut into top and skirt.”
Dodo · Look 17 · Milan
- Cornicello / cornuto amulet
- Cornicello / cornuto amulet
“Twisted, tapering horn-shaped silver charm with gold cap, the classic Neapolitan cornicello luck amulet, reworked as one charm among several on a cord necklace.”
Kallmeyer · Look 1 · Various
- Manton de manila
- Shawl-panel construction
“Dark ground densely embroidered with pale flowers, leafy scrolls and blossoms, edged with long knotted silk fringe, characteristic of mantón de Manila shawls, reworked into a halter dress.”
Kallmeyer · Look 37 · Various
- Manton de manila
- Manton de manila
“Dark silk ground with dense raised satin-stitch floral embroidery (large blooms, leafy scrolls) and long knotted silk fringe, typical of manton de manila shawls, recut into backless halter garment.”
Agnes B. · Look 45 · Tokyo
- Tartan / kilt
“Red ground sett with navy and green bands and fine yellow and white overchecks, closely resembling Royal Stewart tartan, tailored into a matching three-piece suit and coat.”
Ulla Johnson · Look 48 · New York
- Manton de manila
“Tone-on-tone floral silk embroidery on silk crepe, knotted macramé-style netting band and long silk fringe, the hallmarks of a mantón de Manila shawl, reworked into a dress”
Alessandro Enriquez · Look 34 · Milan
- Greek black-figure vase painting motif
“All-over print of amphorae, palmettes, scrolling foliage and Greek key meander bands, black on ochre-orange like ancient Greek black-figure pottery.”
Dodo · Look 23 · Milan
- Cornicello / cornuto amulet
“Small twisted, tapering curved horn charm in gold with red enamel band at the bail, echoing the red coral/gold Neapolitan cornicello luck amulet.”
Kallmeyer · Look 35 · Various
- Manton de manila
“Black silk shawl with large cream floral embroidery, scalloped edge and long knotted silk fringe, worn as a wrapped skirt instead of over the shoulders.”
Forte_forte · Look 30 · Milan
- Tartan / kilt
“Black Watch-style green/navy tartan, knife-pleated wrap skirt with a gathered sash-like extra panel at the hip, echoing kilt and belted plaid, lengthened to midi.”
Ralph Lauren · Look 33 · Milan
- Tartan / kilt
“Dark green/navy sett with yellow and red overchecks, Black Watch/Gordon-style tartan worn head-to-toe; frayed selvedge hems on trousers evoke woven wool tartan cloth.”
Kei Ninomiya · Look 7 · Florence
- Tartan / kilt
“Knee-length pleated wool wrap skirt in green, navy and purple tartan, worn as menswear kilt; reworked with punk safety-pin clusters along pleats.”
Marni · Look 41 · Milan
- Lederhosen
“Grey leather short shorts with vertical piped zip/fly lines, contrast scalloped leather appliqué at hip pockets typical of lederhosen detailing, cut much shorter and slimmer than traditional.”
Temperley London · Look 20 · Various
- Manton de manila
- Manton de manila
“Ivory silk cape with large polychrome rose embroidery, an openwork knotted mesh band (enrejado) and long silk fringe, all characteristic of the Manila shawl, reworked as a cape.”
Forte_forte · Look 37 · Milan
- Tartan / kilt
- Tartan / kilt
“Green-and-navy Black Watch-type sett in woven wool, worn as a large shawl thrown across the shoulder in the manner of a plaid.”
Kei Ninomiya · Look 4 · Florence
- Tartan / kilt
- Tartan / kilt
“Woven sett-style tartans (red/green blazer, green/purple/navy skirt and trousers) clashed across the whole ensemble, with tartan as the defining textile.”
Kei Ninomiya · Look 44 · Florence
- Tartan / kilt
- Tartan / kilt
“Multicoloured green, navy, purple and pink sett with overlapping crossing stripes, a true tartan structure, reworked onto a zippered biker-style jacket.”
LA Doublej · Look 54 · Milan
- Celtic insular knotwork / zoomorphic interlace
- Celtic knot and spiral motif
“Vertical bands of interlaced zoomorphic beasts with biting heads, triskele-like spirals and trumpet curves typical of Insular manuscript art (Book of Kells style); could equally be Scottish/Pictish Celtic.”
Marni · Look 37 · Milan
- Trachten jacket / janker
- Trachten silver buttons and cord trim
“Dark boiled-wool-like jacket with contrasting braided cord trim along lapels, edges and cuffs, metal dome buttons; oversized proportions rework the Alpine janker.”
La Bagatelle · Look 12 · Copenhagen
- Campero boots
“Tall dark brown leather riding boots with contrasting lighter top band and tasselled side pulls, characteristic of Spanish botas camperas.”
Franck Sorbier · Look 13 · Paris
- Tartan / kilt
“Red Royal Stewart-type tartan with yellow, blue, green and white overcheck, worn as a long fringed sash hanging at the front, evoking a plaid/sporran placement.”
Alice YU · Look 31 · Milan
- Manton de manila
“Pale pink silk skirt with silk-floss floral embroidery, knotted macramé band and long silk fringe, reworking an embroidered Manila shawl into a skirt.”
OpéraSport · Look 9 · Copenhagen
- Manton de manila
“Ivory silk-like shawl with pale pink floral motifs and long knotted macramé-style fringe on the triangular edge, characteristic of the mantón de Manila; worn tied at hip.”
Alice YU · Look 25 · Milan
- Manton de manila
“Ivory silk with polychrome silk-embroidered trailing roses and vines plus long knotted silk fringe at hem, hallmarks of the mantón de Manila shawl, reworked as a dress.”
Kenzo · Look 24 · Paris
- Manton de manila
“Dense multicolour silk-style floral embroidery on crimson ground: large peonies/roses, scrolling tendrils, scattered blossoms, characteristic of mantón de Manila shawl embroidery, reworked as a full gathered skirt.”
Dodo · Look 27 · Milan
- Cornicello / cornuto amulet
“Small gold hand charm with index and little fingers extended, middle fingers folded, cuffed wrist and bail: classic Neapolitan mano cornuta protective amulet form.”
Ralph Lauren · Look 29 · Milan
- Tartan / kilt
“Dark green and navy clan-style tartan with a yellow overcheck (Gordon-type sett), cut as trews-like trousers with frayed fringed side edges recalling kilt apron fringe.”
Simon Cracker · Look 6 · Milan
- Tartan / kilt
“Knee-length pleated tartan skirt worn by menswear look in kilt manner; dark green, navy and purple sett resembling Black Watch-type tartan; asymmetric deconstructed side panel.”
LA Doublej · Look 69 · Milan
- Celtic interlace / insular knotwork
“Knotwork bands, zoomorphic interlaced beasts and running-spiral borders in Insular manuscript style (Book of Kells type). Could also be Scottish or Anglo-Saxon Insular art.”
Nadya Dzyak · Look 12 · Milan
- Abanico hand fan
“Red pierced wooden-rib folding fan with hand-painted flowers on fabric leaf, the classic Spanish abanico, held open in flamenco-style pose”
Henrik Vibskov · Look 15 · Copenhagen
- Tartan / kilt
- Tam o'shanter
“Navy and dark green sett with thin red and white overcheck lines, in the manner of Black Watch-style tartan, rendered as printed or knitted hosiery.”
Simone Rocha · Look 40 · London
- Tartan / kilt
- Sporran
“Knee-length pleated wrap skirt in plain black wool, worn with a hanging fur pouch and knee socks. Kilt silhouette without tartan.”
Jeanne Friot · Look 36 · Paris
- Tartan / kilt
- Tartan / kilt
“Intersecting horizontal and vertical bands of red, silver, purple and black form a tartan-style sett, rendered in sequins rather than woven wool.”
The houses
77 houses, by looks drawing on European folk & regional dress traditionsBased in the region
- Chopova Lowena · 10 looks · beaded folk sash / cross-stitch-style beadwork, dirndl / tracht, eastern european folk costume blouse and pleated skirt Based in United Kingdom
- Jeanne Friot · 8 looks · tartan / kilt Based in France
- Dries Van Noten · 7 looks · tartan / kilt Based in Belgium
- Loro Piana · 6 looks · cordobes hat, cossack fur hat / papakha, papakha / cossack fur hat Based in Italy
- Alessandro Enriquez · 5 looks · ancient greek vase / column motif, classical greek vase and column motifs, greek black-figure vase painting motif Based in Italy
- Dolce&Gabbana · 5 looks · byzantine mosaic motif, espadrille / alpargata, irish crochet lace Based in Italy
- Egonlab. · 5 looks · tartan / kilt Based in France
- Forte_forte · 5 looks · manton de manila, tartan / kilt Based in Italy
- Henrik Vibskov · 5 looks · tam o'shanter, tartan / kilt Based in Denmark
- LA Doublej · 5 looks · celtic insular knotwork / zoomorphic interlace, celtic interlace / insular knotwork, celtic knot and spiral motif Based in Italy
- Elena Miro' · 4 looks · celtic knotwork, scottish thistle brooch, scottish thistle emblem Based in Italy
- Kallmeyer · 4 looks · manton de manila, shawl-panel construction Based in Germany
- Simone Rocha · 4 looks · alpine trachten shoe / haferlschuh, sporran, tartan / kilt Based in United Kingdom
- Agnes B. · 3 looks · tartan / kilt, trachten jacket / janker Based in France
- Kenzo · 3 looks · manton de manila Based in France
- Temperley London · 3 looks · manton de manila, traje corto / chaquetilla, traje de luces / matador Based in United Kingdom
- Cecilie Bahnsen · 2 looks · dirndl / tracht Based in Denmark
- Eleventy · 2 looks · cordobes hat, trachten jacket / janker Based in Italy
- Fabio Quaranta · 2 looks · tartan / kilt Based in Italy
- Fendi · 2 looks · embroidered sheepskin folk waistcoat, gajtan / gold cord scroll appliqué Based in Italy
- Franck Sorbier · 2 looks · manton de manila, tartan / kilt Based in France
- GmbH · 2 looks · trachten jacket / janker Based in Germany
- Julie Kegels · 2 looks · dirndl / tracht, harris tweed Based in Belgium
- Labrum London · 2 looks · tartan / kilt Based in United Kingdom
- Marni · 2 looks · lederhosen, trachten jacket / janker, trachten silver buttons and cord trim Based in Italy
- Acne Studios · 1 look · loden Based in Sweden
- Alanui · 1 look · irish crochet lace Based in Italy
- Anne Sofie Madsen · 1 look · tartan / kilt Based in Denmark
- Blazé Milano · 1 look · trachten jacket / janker Based in Italy
- Dior · 1 look · traje de flamenca Based in France
- Ermanno Scervino · 1 look · trachten jacket / janker Based in Italy
- Ernest W. Baker · 1 look · tartan / kilt Based in France
- Etro · 1 look · tartan / kilt Based in Italy
- Germanier · 1 look · traje de luces / matador Based in Switzerland
- Julie de Libran · 1 look · traje de flamenca Based in France
- Kiton · 1 look · tartan / kilt Based in Italy
- Lemaire · 1 look · espadrille Based in France
- Moschino · 1 look · sicilian carretto painting motif Based in Italy
- Nadya Dzyak · 1 look · abanico hand fan Based in Ukraine
- Palomo Spain · 1 look · vyshyvanka / slavic embroidery Based in Spain
- Paul Costelloe · 1 look · tartan / kilt Based in Ireland
- Simon Cracker · 1 look · tartan / kilt Based in Italy
- Skall Studio · 1 look · vyshyvanka / slavic embroidery Based in Denmark
Based elsewhere
- Kei Ninomiya · 12 looks · tartan / kilt Based in Japan
- Ralph Lauren · 10 looks · highland argyll jacket, tartan / kilt Based in United States
- Junya Watanabe Man · 4 looks · cordobes hat, tartan / kilt, traje de flamenca Based in Japan
- Kidill · 4 looks · tartan / kilt Based in Japan
- Wooyoungmi · 4 looks · eastern european folk woven bands, folk waistcoat with ornamental clasps, papakha / cossack fur hat Based in South Korea
- Anna Sui · 3 looks · manton de manila, tartan / kilt Based in United States
- Comme Des Garçons Homme Plus · 3 looks · tartan / kilt Based in Japan
- Junko Shimada · 3 looks · espadrille / alpargata, tartan / kilt Based in Japan
- Auralee · 2 looks · tartan / kilt Based in Japan
- Carolina Herrera · 2 looks · lunares polka dots, traje de flamenca Based in United States
- Oscar de la Renta · 2 looks · dirndl / tracht, trachten jacket / janker Based in United States
- Thom Browne · 2 looks · tartan / kilt Based in United States
- Ulla Johnson · 2 looks · manton de manila Based in United States
- Dhruv Kapoor · 1 look · tartan / kilt Based in India
- Dice Kayek · 1 look · tartan / kilt Based in Türkiye
- Rahul Mishra · 1 look · traje de luces / matador Based in India
- Sacai · 1 look · tartan / kilt Based in Japan
- Tanner Fletcher · 1 look · tartan / kilt Based in United States
- Yohji Yamamoto · 1 look · tartan / kilt Based in Japan
Base not recorded
- Dodo · 7 looks · cornicello / cornuto amulet
- Alice YU · 5 looks · folk cross-stitch sampler embroidery, manton de manila, shawl draped open over shoulders
- La Bagatelle · 2 looks · campero boots
- Meriisi · 2 looks · lederhosen
- MKDT Studio · 2 looks · tartan / kilt
- OpéraSport · 2 looks · manton de manila
- Aknvas · 1 look · papakha / cossack fur hat
- Florania · 1 look · tartan / kilt
- Foz · 1 look · folk cross-stitch panel
- Imad Eduso · 1 look · mantilla and peineta
- Sf1Og · 1 look · mantilla and peineta
- Sson · 1 look · traje de flamenca
- Stem · 1 look · tartan / kilt
- Thoro · 1 look · traje de luces / matador
- Valette Studio · 1 look · traje de flamenca
Where it was shown
Share of each fashion week's looksHow we read it
Read from the runway photographs by our AI tagger: an element counts when it is recognisably drawn from a specific dress or craft tradition and the tagger is at least 60% confident. It describes the clothes only, never the person wearing them, and it is not a statement by the house.