Cultural influences · SS27
Indigenous North America
25 looks from 11 houses drew on Indigenous North America traditions: 1 in 61 shows this season.
Who borrowed it
Every pairing →18 of the 25 looks came from houses based outside the tradition's home country, 18 of them from another region of the world.
- From another region 18
- Can't tell 7
- Native American (unspecified) borrowed by houses based in Italy (7), Japan (2), United Kingdom (1)
- Diné (Navajo) borrowed by houses based in Italy (3), France (1)
- First Nations (unspecified) borrowed by houses based in United States (2), Japan (1)
- Pueblo borrowed by houses based in Italy (1)
Which cultures
Share of the region's 25 looks. “Unspecified” when the element is shared across the region.
What kind of reference
The elements
Looks drawing on each, and the houses that showed it- Navajo / dine weaving pattern · motif11 looks
Alanui · Cucculelli Shaheen · Isabel Marant · Paolina Russo · Sacai
- Turquoise and silver jewellery · embroidery / embellishment7 looks
- Beadwork · embroidery / embellishment3 looks
- Cowichan sweater · garment form · Coast Salish (Cowichan), British Columbia, Coast Salish, Vancouver Island3 looks
- Concho belt · jewellery / adornment1 look
- Buckskin and fringe · garment form1 look
Also seen, styled back towards their source but long part of Western dress, and so not counted above: moccasins (8), trade blanket / blanket coat (1).
On the runway
Up to three looks per house, strongest first
Ralph Lauren · Look 67 · Milan
- Turquoise and silver jewellery
Can't tell
“Wide belt of large scalloped repoussé silver conchos set with turquoise stones and a rectangular stamped buckle, typical of Southwestern Diné/Pueblo concho belts.”
Ralph Lauren · Look 7 · Milan
- Beadwork
- Buckskin and fringe
Can't tell
“Multicoloured floral sprays and small star-like flowers in bead-like texture on yoke, cuffs and pockets, recalling Woodland/Plains-style floral beadwork; could also be embroidery imitating it.”
Eleventy · Look 49 · Milan
- Turquoise and silver jewellery
Italy → Diné (Navajo)
“Concho belt: series of oval stamped silver-tone conchos with scalloped edges, scroll repoussé motifs and turquoise centres on a leather strap, plus a matching oval concho buckle.”
Alanui · Look 20 · Milan
- Navajo / dine weaving pattern
Italy → Native American (unspecified)
“Jacquard knit with stepped serrated diamonds, arrow forms and Greek-key bands in red, cream, tan and charcoal, recalling Southwestern/Diné-style or Pendleton trade-blanket patterning.”
Alanui · Look 21 · Milan
- Navajo / dine weaving pattern
Italy → Native American (unspecified)
“Stepped diamonds, serrated stepped lozenges, arrow/star forms and fret bands in jacquard knit. Echoes Southwestern weaving and trade-blanket designs; Diné, Pueblo and Pendleton-type sources possible.”
Alanui · Look 52 · Milan
- Navajo / dine weaving pattern
Italy → Diné (Navajo)
“Jacquard knit with serrated diamonds, stepped zigzag bands, nested chevrons and stepped-fret borders in red, cream, teal and terracotta, recalling Diné eyedazzler/Germantown weavings and Southwestern trade-blanket designs.”
Ralph Lauren · Look 69 · Milan
- Cowichan sweater
United States → First Nations (unspecified)
“Bulky hand-knit-look cardigan with wide shawl collar, cream figurative motifs on navy ground, and banded patterning at sleeves, typical of Coast Salish Cowichan sweaters. Navy colourway departs from natural tones.”
Dolce&Gabbana · Look 57 · Milan
- Turquoise and silver jewellery
Italy → Native American (unspecified)
“Oval silver-toned buckle set with turquoise stones in a cluster arrangement on a leather belt, recalling Southwestern turquoise-and-silver buckles; Diné, Pueblo or Zuni workmanship plausible.”
Tibi · Look 7 · New York
- Turquoise and silver jewellery
Can't tell
“Belt of large oval stamped silver conchos linked on a dark strap, the Southwestern concho-belt form associated with Diné/Pueblo silverwork; no turquoise visible, so tribe unspecified.”
Tanaka · Look 20 · Tokyo
- Cowichan sweater
Japan → First Nations (unspecified)
“Heavy zip-front knit with wide shawl collar, natural grey/cream/charcoal palette, leaf/fern motifs and geometric bands in Cowichan layout. Cropped, puffed-shoulder cut is a rework.”
Isabel Marant · Look 12 · Paris
- Navajo / dine weaving pattern
France → Diné (Navajo)
“Stepped, serrated diamond lozenges and banded geometric borders in red, pink and grey on cream, recalling Diné rug layouts; rendered as fuzzy mohair knit.”
Paolina Russo · Look 18 · Copenhagen
- Navajo / dine weaving pattern
United Kingdom → Native American (unspecified)
“Stepped serrated diamond lattice and eight-pointed star medallions printed over faded denim, recalling Diné weaving or trade-blanket geometry; could also read as generic Southwestern graphics.”
Dolce&Gabbana · Look 48 · Milan
- Turquoise and silver jewellery
Italy → Pueblo
“Turquoise cabochon-like stones set in rows along the front edges and in radiating sunburst clusters, recalling Zuni cluster or needlepoint turquoise jewellery, transferred onto knitwear.”
kiminori morishita · Look 51 · Tokyo
- Beadwork
Japan → Native American (unspecified)
“Chest yoke of strung beads in horizontal bands with vertical bead strands ending in long fringe, recalling Plains beaded and hair-pipe breastplate yokes.”
Sacai · Look 60 · Paris
- Navajo / dine weaving pattern
Japan → Native American (unspecified)
“Stacked horizontal bands of serrated triangles, stepped zigzags and chevrons in red, orange, yellow, black, white, green; resembles Southwestern blanket/Pendleton-style patterning, rendered as silk print. Could also read as generic geometric.”
Tibi · Look 15 · New York
- Turquoise and silver jewellery
Can't tell
“Concho-style belt: series of oval stamped silver plaques on a dark leather strap, a form associated with Diné/Southwestern silverwork; no turquoise visible, also common in Western wear.”
Tibi · Look 36 · New York
- Concho belt
Can't tell
“Several large oval silver conchos spaced along a dark leather strap at the waist, the Navajo concho belt format; this format is also common in generic Western wear.”
Cucculelli Shaheen · Look 26 · New York
- Navajo / dine weaving pattern
Can't tell
“Stepped and serrated diamonds, nested lozenges and zigzag bands arranged in vertical panels recall Diné rug layouts. Rendered in metallic beading, so it could also read as Art Deco.”
The houses
11 houses, by looks drawing on Indigenous North America traditionsFrom another region
- Alanui · 8 looks · beadwork, navajo / dine weaving pattern Italy
- Ralph Lauren · 5 looks · beadwork, buckskin and fringe, cowichan sweater United States
- Dolce&Gabbana · 2 looks · turquoise and silver jewellery Italy
- Eleventy · 1 look · turquoise and silver jewellery Italy
- Isabel Marant · 1 look · navajo / dine weaving pattern France
- kiminori morishita · 1 look · beadwork Japan
- Paolina Russo · 1 look · navajo / dine weaving pattern United Kingdom
- Sacai · 1 look · navajo / dine weaving pattern Japan
- Tanaka · 1 look · cowichan sweater Japan*
Indigenous tradition, on the house's home ground
- Tibi · 3 looks · concho belt, turquoise and silver jewellery United States
- Cucculelli Shaheen · 1 look · navajo / dine weaving pattern United States
Where it was shown
Share of each fashion week's looksHow we read it
Read from the runway photographs by our AI tagger: an element counts when it is recognisably drawn from a specific dress or craft tradition and the tagger is at least 60% confident. It describes the clothes only, never the person wearing them, and it is not a statement by the house.
A look is borrowed when the house that showed it is based outside the country the tradition comes from. We compare the house's base (recorded, or inferred from the one national fashion week it shows at) with the tradition the tagger named. Traditions the tagger could only place by region, such as “West African”, count as borrowed only when the house is based outside that region. For Indigenous traditions a house based on the same territory may or may not belong to the community, so those looks are marked “can’t tell”. A house’s base says nothing about its designers’ own heritage, and borrowing is not a verdict: it can be collaboration, homage or appropriation, which the photographs can’t show.