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Fashion Field Notes
For Publications

Cultural influences · SS27

West Africa

292 looks from 47 houses drew on West Africa traditions: 1 in 14 shows this season.

292Looks
1.12%Of all looks
48Shows
47Houses

Who borrowed it

Every pairing →

32 of the 292 looks came from houses based outside the tradition's home country, 21 of them from another region of the world.

  • From another region 21
  • From a neighbouring country 11
  • Home tradition or own region 261
  • Can't tell 27

Which cultures

  • Yoruba53.4%
  • West African (unspecified)44.9%
  • Nigeria8.2%
  • Ghana3.1%
  • Mali1.7%
  • Fulani1.4%
  • Igbo1.0%
  • Edo1.0%

Share of the region's 292 looks. “Unspecified” when the element is shared across the region.

What kind of reference

  • Print / dye technique40.1%
  • Garment form26.0%
  • Headwear21.2%
  • Textile / weave19.2%
  • Embroidery / embellishment8.2%
  • Jewellery / adornment5.5%
  • Motif5.5%
  • Bag / accessory3.8%

The elements

Looks drawing on each, and the houses that showed it

On the runway

Up to three looks per house, strongest first
Ugo Monye, look 24

Ugo Monye · Look 24 · Lagos

  • Agbada
  • Buba and sokoto
  • Fila cap

Home tradition

“Voluminous wide-sleeved floor-length overrobe folded over the shoulders, worn over a tunic and trousers; layered metallic tiers rework the classic agbada.”

Cynthia Abila, look 2

Cynthia Abila · Look 2 · Lagos

  • Coral bead necklaces
  • Red cap (okpu mmuo / isiagu-style chieftaincy cap)
  • Chieftaincy ensemble (cap, coral, wrapper, tunic)

Home tradition

“Multiple strands of red tubular coral-style beads layered at the neck, the classic Nigerian royal and chieftaincy coral necklace.”

Ugo Monye, look 30

Ugo Monye · Look 30 · Lagos

  • Coral bead necklaces
  • Agbada
  • Fila cap

Home tradition

“Long double-strand coral-red bead necklace and a stacked coral bead wrist cuff, typical of Edo and Yoruba ceremonial coral regalia.”

Ugo Monye, look 15

Ugo Monye · Look 15 · Lagos

  • Agbada
  • Coral bead necklaces
  • Fila cap

Home tradition

“Voluminous wide-sleeved ankle-length robe worn over a long tunic, characteristic agbada layering; reworked in a printed geometric fabric.”

Maxivive, look 6

Maxivive · Look 6 · Milan

  • Buba and sokoto
  • Cowrie shells
  • Nigerian guipure / cord lace

Base unknown

“Knee-length round-neck buba tunic with short placket and wide elbow sleeves over matching straight sokoto trousers, same fabric head to toe.”

Maxivive, look 9

Maxivive · Look 9 · Milan

  • Ankara / wax print
  • Ankara / wax print
  • Gele

Base unknown

“Bold large-scale stylised motifs in saturated blue, red and white with crisp wax-print colour registration on cotton.”

Dwl, look 17

Dwl · Look 17 · Lagos

  • Coral bead necklaces
  • Coral bead necklaces
  • Edo coral bead headdress / okuku

Home tradition

“Beaded portrait on coat back shows a woman wearing tiered coral-bead collar of many looped strands, rendered in real orange beads.”

Cute Saint, look 8

Cute Saint · Look 8 · Lagos

  • Cowrie shells
  • Adire
  • Tie-dye resist panels

Own region

“Rows of small white cowrie shells stitched along the cropped jacket hem and both sleeve cuffs as trim.”

Igc Fashion, look 2

Igc Fashion · Look 2 · Lagos

  • Cowrie shells
  • Gele

Own region

“Densely packed white cowrie shells sewn in rows over the skirt and a vertical sash band, interspersed with dark seed clusters; cowrie embellishment is used across West and Central Africa.”

Igc Fashion, look 12

Igc Fashion · Look 12 · Lagos

  • Cowrie shells
  • Bogolan / mudcloth

Nigeria → Mali

“Multiple cowrie shells stitched along the rust-brown textured waist pouch and its hanging tie straps.”

Christie Brown, look 18

Christie Brown · Look 18 · Lagos

  • Ankara / wax print
  • Aso oke

Ghana → Yoruba

“Bold purple and turquoise paisley/swirl wax-print-style cotton used as coat lining, inner skirt panel and waistband, typical ankara colourway and motif scale.”

For Style Sake - Fss, look 6

For Style Sake - Fss · Look 6 · Lagos

  • Gele
  • Buba and iro / wrapper

Home tradition

“Stiff metallic green fabric wrapped and pleated into a sculpted fan-topped head tie, matching the skirt fabric, in the manner of a Yoruba gele.”

Cute Saint, look 28

Cute Saint · Look 28 · Lagos

  • Cowrie shells
  • Adire

Own region

“Real cowrie shells applied in a curved yoke line and two vertical rows framing the neckline as decorative trim.”

Cute Saint, look 29

Cute Saint · Look 29 · Lagos

  • Egungun masquerade costume
  • Egungun lappet panel layering

Home tradition

“Fully concealing ensemble with hood over head, many hanging lappet panels of mixed fabrics with zigzag trims, flaring outward as the wearer spins, as in Egungun masquerade.”

Igc Fashion, look 8

Igc Fashion · Look 8 · Lagos

  • Cowrie shells

Own region

“Natural cowrie shells stitched along a crocheted rust-brown fibre belt and round pouch, used as decorative trim in West African adornment fashion.”

Christie Brown, look 12

Christie Brown · Look 12 · Lagos

  • Ankara / wax print

Own region

“Bold large-scale wax-print style cotton in purple, navy and teal with outlined teardrop/leaf motifs and dense filler patterning typical of Dutch wax/ankara prints.”

Cynthia Abila, look 14

Cynthia Abila · Look 14 · Lagos

  • Cowrie shells

Own region

“Close-fitting cap densely covered in white cowrie shells, with long cowrie-strung lappets hanging at the sides; cowries are a hallmark West African adornment.”

Dwl, look 16

Dwl · Look 16 · Lagos

  • Coral bead necklaces

Home tradition

“Multiple layered strands of tubular and round red-orange coral beads, a choker plus long ropes, matching Edo/Benin and Nigerian bridal coral regalia.”

Garbe, look 20

Garbe · Look 20 · Lagos

  • Cowrie shells

Own region

“Three large cowrie-shell forms with characteristic slit underside used as connecting hardware between twisted bands of the brown cut-out top.”

Maxivive, look 7

Maxivive · Look 7 · Milan

  • Gele
  • Buba and iro / wrapper
  • Iro wrapper with lace overlay

Base unknown

“Voluminous sculpted head tie wrapped high around the head in white and purple patterned cloth, tied in the manner of a Nigerian gele.”

Heineken x This Is Us, look 4

Heineken x This Is Us · Look 4 · Lagos

  • Indigo resist cloth
  • Boubou / grand boubou

Own region

“Indigo-blue vertical stripes with soft feathered, bleeding edges on cream ground, typical of hand-applied resist/tie-dye; could be Yoruba adire or Malian/Guinean indigo work.”

Bornstar, look 20

Bornstar · Look 20 · Lagos

  • Boubou / grand boubou
  • Agbada / boubou neck embroidery

Own region

“Floor-length wide flowing robe with broad wing-like sleeves and deep V neckline, the classic boubou/agbada-type silhouette, reworked in pink linen-like cloth with raffia tufts.”

Jzo, look 15

Jzo · Look 15 · Lagos

  • Kufi
  • Buba and sokoto

Own region

“Brimless close-fitting rounded cap worn at the crown, black with white geometric zigzag and diamond pattern, styled with a tunic-and-trouser set.”

Cynthia Abila, look 11

Cynthia Abila · Look 11 · Lagos

  • Gele
  • Djembe / talking drum motif

Home tradition

“Tall sculpted head tie with stiff fabric folded and pleated upward into a crown shape, the characteristic gele tying style; rendered in grey and black-white woven fabric.”

Garbe, look 2

Garbe · Look 2 · Lagos

  • Ankara / wax print
  • Ankara / wax print

Own region

“Saturated yellow-on-brown repeating stylised human-figure print with crisp wax-print colour blocking, cut into an oversized camp-collar shirt with red collar.”

Elie Kuame, look 12

Elie Kuame · Look 12 · Lagos

  • Kente

Côte d’Ivoire → Ghana

“Strip-woven look with zigzag bands in yellow, red, blue and purple and blocked red rectangles, typical kente palette and motifs, tailored into a cropped Western jacket.”

Heineken x This Is Us, look 3

Heineken x This Is Us · Look 3 · Lagos

  • Boubou / grand boubou

Own region

“Voluminous full-width flowing robe falling to ankles, wide draped sleeve openings, open neckline framed by trim; reworked with oversized abstract red star appliqué.”

Eso by Liman, look 18

Eso by Liman · Look 18 · Lagos

  • Aso oke

Home tradition

“Narrow-strip handwoven cloth in navy with metallic gold and red warp stripes, fringed unhemmed edges and loose floating threads, typical of Yoruba aso oke strip weaving.”

Jzo, look 25

Jzo · Look 25 · Lagos

  • Kufi

Own region

“Close-fitting brimless rounded skullcap with embroidered/printed white diamond geometric bands, typical kufi form; similar caps also worn in East Africa (kofia).”

Iremitide, look 5

Iremitide · Look 5 · Lagos

  • Ankara / wax print

Own region

“Bold, saturated repeating stylised leaf-burst motifs in red, green and white on a black ground, with a contrasting yellow geometric border band typical of wax-print cloth layouts.”

Garbe, look 26

Garbe · Look 26 · Lagos

  • Ankara / wax print

Own region

“Bold saturated mustard-yellow and gold human-figure motifs on dark brown ground, characteristic wax-print scale, colouring and graphic layout; cut into a ruched Western halter mini dress.”

Street Souk, look 2

Street Souk · Look 2 · Lagos

  • Buba and sokoto

Home tradition

“Matching knee-length tunic over straight trousers in the same teal fabric, round collarless neckline, chest patch pockets: the kaftan/senator two-piece of West African menswear.”

Altuzarra, look 3

Altuzarra · Look 3 · New York

  • Bolga basket

United States → Ghana

“Bulbous tightly woven straw basket with dyed red and black bands and a diamond motif, typical of Frafra elephant-grass Bolga baskets, here with a leather handle”

Elie Kuame, look 2

Elie Kuame · Look 2 · Lagos

  • Boubou / grand boubou
  • Fulani jewellery
  • Aso oke

Côte d’Ivoire → Fulani

“Wide, flowing open-sided robe falling past the knees with broad shoulder-to-wrist drape, worn over a tunic in boubou layering; sheer lightweight fabric.”

Heineken x This Is Us, look 2

Heineken x This Is Us · Look 2 · Lagos

  • Indigo resist cloth
  • Indigo resist cloth
  • Boubou / grand boubou

Own region

“Deep indigo ground with pale resist-reserved palm-frond motifs and soft, slightly irregular edges typical of hand-applied resist dyeing; could be Yoruba adire or Malian/Senegalese indigo work.”

Bornstar, look 15

Bornstar · Look 15 · Lagos

  • Adire
  • Adire
  • Cowrie shells

Home tradition

“Dark green ground with scattered tied-resist circular rosettes in white, characteristic of oniko adire, applied to textured trouser fabric.”

The houses

47 houses, by looks drawing on West Africa traditions

From another region

From a neighbouring country

  • Garbe · 14 looks · adire, ankara / wax print, bolga basket Nigeria*
  • Igc Fashion · 12 looks · adinkra symbols, adire, bogolan / mudcloth Nigeria*
  • Cynthia Abila · 9 looks · adire, aso oke, bolga straw weaving Nigeria*
  • Elie Kuame · 7 looks · agbada, aso oke, boubou / grand boubou Côte d’Ivoire
  • Christie Brown · 6 looks · adire, ankara / wax print, aso oke Ghana

Home tradition or own region

  • Ugo Monye · 33 looks · agbada, agbada / babban riga chest embroidery panel, agbada chest embroidery Nigeria*
  • Cute Saint · 26 looks · adire, agbada, aso oke Nigeria
  • Bakusoraya · 23 looks · adire, buba and sokoto, fila cap Nigeria*
  • Heineken x This Is Us · 18 looks · adire, boubou / grand boubou, buba and sokoto Nigeria*
  • Bornstar · 11 looks · adire, agbada / boubou neck embroidery, boubou / grand boubou Nigeria*
  • Eki Silk · 11 looks · cowrie shells Nigeria*
  • Dust OF The Earth · 6 looks · aso oke, buba and sokoto, fila cap Nigeria*
  • Dwl · 6 looks · aso oke, coral bead necklaces, edo coral bead headdress / okuku Nigeria*
  • Eso by Liman · 6 looks · aso oke, egungun masquerade costume, fila cap Nigeria*
  • Pillz N Poizn · 6 looks · boubou / grand boubou, gele, kufi Nigeria*
  • Jzo · 5 looks · adire, buba and sokoto, fila cap Nigeria*
  • Pepper Row · 5 looks · aso ebi guipure / cord lace, aso oke, boubou / grand boubou Nigeria*
  • Dukun · 4 looks · fila cap, gele Nigeria*
  • Geometric Motion · 4 looks · indigo resist cloth Nigeria*
  • Pettre Taylor · 4 looks · adire, agbada, gele Nigeria*
  • Y'wande · 4 looks · adire, aso oke, buba and sokoto Nigeria*
  • Fia · 3 looks · aso oke, cowrie shells Nigeria*
  • Nkwo · 3 looks · akwete handwoven cloth, boubou / grand boubou, indigo resist cloth Nigeria
  • Nya · 3 looks · adire, boubou / grand boubou Nigeria*
  • Studio Namnyak · 3 looks · aso oke Nigeria*
  • For Style Sake - Fss · 2 looks · buba and iro / wrapper, gele Nigeria*
  • Sahrazad · 2 looks · aso oke Nigeria*
  • Chic NI City · 1 look · ankara / wax print Nigeria*
  • Iremitide · 1 look · ankara / wax print Nigeria*
  • Jermain Bleu · 1 look · aso oke Nigeria*
  • Kenneth Ize · 1 look · aso oke Nigeria
  • Lush Hair · 1 look · cowrie shells, irun kiko thread-wrapped sculpture Nigeria*
  • Orange Culture · 1 look · aso oke Nigeria
  • Oshobor · 1 look · agbada Nigeria*
  • Street Souk · 1 look · buba and sokoto Nigeria*

House base not recorded

  • Maxivive · 12 looks · agbada, ankara / wax print, aso oke
  • Fruché · 9 looks · adire, buba and sokoto, cowrie shells
  • Koday · 4 looks · ankara / wax print
  • Absent Findings · 2 looks · ankara / wax print, aso oke

Where it was shown

Share of each fashion week's looks
  • Lagos16.8%
  • Milan0.23%
  • New York0.45%
  • London0.65%
  • Berlin0.41%
  • Paris0.02%
  • Copenhagen0.07%

How we read it

Read from the runway photographs by our AI tagger: an element counts when it is recognisably drawn from a specific dress or craft tradition and the tagger is at least 60% confident. It describes the clothes only, never the person wearing them, and it is not a statement by the house.

A look is borrowed when the house that showed it is based outside the country the tradition comes from. We compare the house's base (recorded, or inferred from the one national fashion week it shows at) with the tradition the tagger named. Traditions the tagger could only place by region, such as “West African”, count as borrowed only when the house is based outside that region. For Indigenous traditions a house based on the same territory may or may not belong to the community, so those looks are marked “can’t tell”. A house’s base says nothing about its designers’ own heritage, and borrowing is not a verdict: it can be collaboration, homage or appropriation, which the photographs can’t show.

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