Cultural influences · SS27
Who borrowed from whom
Every pairing of a house and a tradition from outside the country it is based in: who drew on it, what they took, and the look that shows it.
Where each look stands
1102 looks that drew on a tradition, by how the tradition relates to the house- From another region 389
- From a neighbouring country 135
- Home tradition or own region 472
- Can't tell 146
Houses based in Italy
20 pairings, most looks first
Italy → JapanAnother region
18 looks · 7 houses · haori, kimono, tabi
Giorgio Armani · Alberta Ferretti · Capasa Milano Shoes Collection · Act N°1 · Emporio Armani and 2 more
“Visible split-toe construction separating the big toe from the other toes, derived from Japanese jika-tabi, reworked as black suede knee-high heeled boots with side zip.”

Italy → IndiaAnother region
15 looks · 8 houses · kashmir shawl / pashmina, kolhapuri chappal, hand block print
Loro Piana · LA Doublej · Etro · Alanui · Amato Daniele and 3 more
“Repeated Devanagari Om (ॐ) glyph set inside radiating sunburst medallions on front panels and hem, knitted in tan-on-cream jacquard.”


Italy → Central Asian (unspecified)Another region
13 looks · 3 houses · adras / atlas ikat, ikat / patola
Emporio Armani · Etro · Loro Piana
“Large blurred-edge abstract motifs with feathered, streaky warp-direction outlines typical of ikat; neutral grey-cream palette; could also read as Indian or Southeast Asian ikat.”

Italy → MoroccoAnother region
8 looks · 4 houses · babouche, sfifa braid trim, gandoura / jabador
Capasa Milano Shoes Collection · Giorgio Armani · Emporio Armani · Fendi
“Scrolling corded passementerie braid running down the centre front opening and around the standing collar, as in Moroccan sfifa trim on caftans and jabadors.”

Italy → ChinaAnother region
7 looks · 3 houses · pankou / frog closures, tang jacket, chinese silk brocade
Giorgio Armani · Act N°1 · Amato Daniele
“Horizontal fabric knot-and-loop fastenings set down the centre front in place of buttonholes, the characteristic Chinese pankou closure, done tone-on-tone in black.”

Italy → Native American (unspecified)Another region
7 looks · 2 houses · navajo / dine weaving pattern, beadwork, turquoise and silver jewellery
“Jacquard knit with stepped serrated diamonds, arrow forms and Greek-key bands in red, cream, tan and charcoal, recalling Southwestern/Diné-style or Pendleton trade-blanket patterning.”

Italy → South Asian (unspecified)Another region
3 looks · 3 houses · ikat / patola, kurta, salwar / shalwar kameez
Emporio Armani · Fendi · Moschino
“Woven upper with blurred, feathered-edge grey chevron and flame shapes typical of warp-resist ikat; could equally be Central Asian or Southeast Asian ikat.”

Italy → Diné (Navajo)Another region
3 looks · 2 houses · navajo / dine weaving pattern, turquoise and silver jewellery
“Concho belt: series of oval stamped silver-tone conchos with scalloped edges, scroll repoussé motifs and turquoise centres on a leather strap, plus a matching oval concho buckle.”

Italy → East Asian (unspecified)Another region
3 looks · 2 houses · chinese silk brocade, cloud scroll motif, crossed-collar wrap top
“Narrow band collar crossing diagonally at the throat over a wrapped front panel. Recalls Korean jeogori, Chinese hanfu jiaoling or kimono collar; the exact source is ambiguous.”

Italy → Middle Eastern (unspecified)Another region
2 looks · 2 houses · fez / tarboosh, kilim / persian carpet motif
“Brimless, flat-topped, slightly tapered cylindrical cap with possible small tassel tab at side; reworked in glossy satin. Could read as Ottoman/Moroccan fez or a kufi-style cap.”



Italy → KoreaAnother region
1 look · 1 house · jogakbo / bojagi patchwork
“Sheer, translucent rectangular panels pieced in irregular geometric blocks with thin visible seam lines and colour overlaps, like bojagi in ramie or silk gauze. Could also be generic patchwork.”

Italy → PhilippinesAnother region
1 look · 1 house · barong tagalog
“Sheer, translucent ecru collared button-front shirt with dense tone-on-tone raised embroidery across the body, recalling barong tagalog's sheer embroidered formal shirt.”

Italy → PuebloAnother region
1 look · 1 house · turquoise and silver jewellery
“Turquoise cabochon-like stones set in rows along the front edges and in radiating sunburst clusters, recalling Zuni cluster or needlepoint turquoise jewellery, transferred onto knitwear.”

Italy → Southeast Asian (unspecified)Another region
1 look · 1 house · sarong
“Printed cloth wrapped as a straight sarong over full-length trousers, with a vertical bordered panel like a kepala, recalling Malay kain samping layering. Could also be a generic scarf-skirt.”

Italy → TurkeyAnother region
1 look · 1 house · mevlevi sikke (dervish felt hat)
“Tall, rigid, camel felt hat with a truncated-cone shape that flares slightly, closely recalling the Mevlevi dervish sikke.”


Italy → West African (unspecified)Another region
1 look · 1 house · cowrie shells
“Cowrie shells strung on a beaded necklace; cowrie adornment also common in other regions, so attribution is uncertain.”
By where the house is based
Looks drawing on another country's tradition, and the traditions drawn on most
- Italy139 looks · 27 houses
Japan (18) · India (15) · Ecuador (15) · Central Asian (unspecified) (13)
- France75 looks · 21 houses
Japan (23) · Scotland (17) · China (17) · Spain (7)
- Japan56 looks · 24 houses
Scotland (26) · China (13) · Spain (4) · Mexico (3)
- Denmark52 looks · 16 houses
India (15) · China (10) · Scotland (9) · Spain (5)
- United States50 looks · 16 houses
Scotland (15) · India (9) · Ghana (6) · Spain (5)
- Nigeria29 looks · 14 houses
Morocco (7) · China (6) · Japan (3) · Mali (3)
- Germany25 looks · 9 houses
China (13) · Spain (5) · Austria (2) · Japan (2)
- Belgium24 looks · 3 houses
Scotland (8) · Andean (7) · India (7) · Austria (1)
- United Kingdom20 looks · 9 houses
West African (unspecified) (4) · Japan (4) · Spain (3) · Andean (2)
- South Africa9 looks · 2 houses
Japan (4) · West African (unspecified) (3) · Mali (2) · Fulani (1)
- Lebanon8 looks · 2 houses
India (7) · China (1)
- Côte d’Ivoire5 looks · 1 house
Fulani (2) · Yoruba (2) · Ghana (1) · South Asian (unspecified) (1)
- Mexico5 looks · 4 houses
Japan (2) · China (1) · Korea (1) · Spain (1)
- South Korea5 looks · 1 house
European (unspecified) (2) · Austria (1) · Japan (1) · Russia (1)
- Brazil4 looks · 3 houses
China (1) · European (unspecified) (1) · Japan (1) · Palestine (1)
- China3 looks · 3 houses
Japan (3)
- India3 looks · 2 houses
Cambodia (1) · Scotland (1) · Spain (1)
- Sweden2 looks · 2 houses
Austria (1) · Korea (1)
- Netherlands2 looks · 2 houses
Japan (1) · West African (unspecified) (1)
- Ghana2 looks · 1 house
Yoruba (2)
By tradition
Looks by houses based elsewhere, and where those houses are based
- Scotland91 looks · 9 countries
Japan (26) · France (17) · United States (15) · Italy (13)
- China72 looks · 11 countries
France (17) · Japan (13) · Germany (13) · Denmark (10)
- Japan68 looks · 13 countries
France (23) · Italy (18) · Denmark (4) · United Kingdom (4)
- India59 looks · 8 countries
Denmark (15) · Italy (15) · United States (9) · Lebanon (7)
- Spain39 looks · 12 countries
France (7) · Denmark (5) · Germany (5) · Italy (5)
- Morocco17 looks · 3 countries
Italy (8) · Nigeria (7) · France (2)
- Ecuador16 looks · 2 countries
Italy (15) · United Kingdom (1)
- Central Asian (unspecified)16 looks · 2 countries
Italy (13) · Denmark (3)
- South Asian (unspecified)13 looks · 8 countries
Denmark (4) · Italy (3) · Germany (1) · France (1)
- Austria12 looks · 7 countries
Italy (4) · Germany (2) · United States (2) · France (1)
- West African (unspecified)11 looks · 6 countries
United Kingdom (4) · South Africa (3) · France (1) · Italy (1)
- Native American (unspecified)10 looks · 3 countries
Italy (7) · Japan (2) · United Kingdom (1)
- East Asian (unspecified)10 looks · 5 countries
Italy (3) · United States (3) · France (2) · Denmark (1)
- Andean10 looks · 3 countries
Belgium (7) · United Kingdom (2) · Italy (1)
- Ghana9 looks · 3 countries
United States (6) · Nigeria (2) · Côte d’Ivoire (1)
- Mexico8 looks · 4 countries
Japan (3) · United States (3) · Belgium (1) · France (1)
- Middle Eastern (unspecified)6 looks · 4 countries
Italy (2) · Nigeria (2) · Denmark (1) · United Kingdom (1)
- Yoruba5 looks · 3 countries
Côte d’Ivoire (2) · Ghana (2) · Denmark (1)
- Germany5 looks · 3 countries
Denmark (2) · United Kingdom (2) · Italy (1)
- Greece5 looks · 1 country
Italy (5)
How each look is placed
- Another region From another region
- Neighbouring From a neighbouring country
- Home tradition The house's own tradition
- Own region From the house's own region
- Can't tell Indigenous tradition, on the house's home ground
- Base unknown House base not recorded
* Base inferred from the national fashion week the house shows at; the house has no recorded base.
How we read it
Read from the runway photographs by our AI tagger: an element counts when it is recognisably drawn from a specific dress or craft tradition and the tagger is at least 60% confident. It describes the clothes only, never the person wearing them, and it is not a statement by the house.
A look is borrowed when the house that showed it is based outside the country the tradition comes from. We compare the house's base (recorded, or inferred from the one national fashion week it shows at) with the tradition the tagger named. Traditions the tagger could only place by region, such as “West African”, count as borrowed only when the house is based outside that region. For Indigenous traditions a house based on the same territory may or may not belong to the community, so those looks are marked “can’t tell”. A house’s base says nothing about its designers’ own heritage, and borrowing is not a verdict: it can be collaboration, homage or appropriation, which the photographs can’t show.
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