Who borrowed from whom

France → JapanAnother region

23 looks · 8 houses · tabi, kimono / obi brocade, kimono

Givenchy · Maison Margiela · Kenzo · Dior · Isabel Marant and 3 more

“White calf-high boots with a clearly split toe separating the big toe, the defining feature of Japanese jika-tabi, reworked as painted leather boots.”

France → ChinaAnother region

17 looks · 11 houses · pankou / frog closures, tang jacket, qipao / cheongsam

Isabel Marant · Courreges · Dior · Kenzo · Lemaire and 6 more

“Row of knotted toggle-and-loop frog fastenings down the centre front, rendered in self leather rather than silk cord.”

France → IndiaAnother region

3 looks · 3 houses · banarasi brocade, sari drape, zardozi

Alexis Mabille · Dior · Franck Sorbier

“Gold lamé panel falls diagonally from the shoulder across the torso and gathers at the hip over a long column, recalling a sari pallu. It is also readable as a generic Grecian drape.”

France → East Asian (unspecified)Another region

2 looks · 2 houses · chinese silk brocade, silk satin floral embroidery

Dior · Givenchy

“Dense satin-stitch flowers on lustrous gold silk satin, recalling Japanese kimono or Chinese silk embroidery; could be print, Japanese or Chinese source uncertain.”

France → MoroccoAnother region

2 looks · 1 house · gandoura / jabador, sfifa braid trim

Franck Sorbier

“Collarless deep V-slit neckline edged in tonal braid, loose hip-length tunic with tone-on-tone embroidered chest panel, as on a Moroccan jabador top worn with trousers.”

France → Diné (Navajo)Another region

1 look · 1 house · navajo / dine weaving pattern

Isabel Marant

“Stepped, serrated diamond lozenges and banded geometric borders in red, pink and grey on cream, recalling Diné rug layouts; rendered as fuzzy mohair knit.”

France → MexicoAnother region

1 look · 1 house · huipil

Imane Ayissi

“Boxy rectangular untailored tunic with square neckline, all-over woven-look repeat motifs and fringed hem, worn over a full gathered skirt like a huipil-and-enagua ensemble.”

France → South Asian (unspecified)Another region

1 look · 1 house · rudraksha / prayer bead mala

Franck Sorbier

“Strand of brown textured rudraksha-like seed beads with dangling tassels, like a Hindu or Buddhist japa mala; carved bone-like beads could also suggest Tibetan bone malas.”

France → UzbekistanAnother region

1 look · 1 house · adras / atlas ikat

Franck Sorbier

“Bold blurred-edge ikat medallions in red, yellow, black and white on velvet pile, typical of Uzbek silk-velvet (baghmal) ikat; used as trim bands and collar insert.”

France → West African (unspecified)Another region

1 look · 1 house · kente

Imane Ayissi

“Checkerboard of narrow strip-woven blocks alternating warp stripes and inlaid geometric motifs in gold, teal, magenta on black; could also read as Ewe kente or aso oke.”