Cultural influences · SS27
Who borrowed from whom
Every pairing of a house and a tradition from outside the country it is based in: who drew on it, what they took, and the look that shows it.
Where each look stands
1102 looks that drew on a tradition, by how the tradition relates to the house- From another region 389
- From a neighbouring country 135
- Home tradition or own region 472
- Can't tell 146
drawing on China
10 pairings, most looks first

Germany → ChinaAnother region
13 looks · 4 houses · pankou / frog closures, qipao / cheongsam, tang jacket
William Fan · Ottolinger · Kallmeyer · Dagger*
“Four horizontal knotted cord closures in matching black, evenly spaced down the centre front, fastening edge-to-edge in the manner of Chinese pankou.”

Denmark → ChinaAnother region
10 looks · 6 houses · pankou / frog closures, chinese silk brocade, tang jacket
The Garment · Mr. Larkin* · By Malene Birger · La Bagatelle* · Taus* and 1 more
“Four knotted cord frog fastenings in self-fabric down a centre-front slit opening, a traditional Chinese knot-button closure, set on a tailored white jacket.”

Italy → ChinaAnother region
7 looks · 3 houses · pankou / frog closures, tang jacket, chinese silk brocade
Giorgio Armani · Act N°1 · Amato Daniele
“Horizontal fabric knot-and-loop fastenings set down the centre front in place of buttonholes, the characteristic Chinese pankou closure, done tone-on-tone in black.”

Nigeria → ChinaAnother region
6 looks · 3 houses · pankou / frog closures, tang jacket
Bakusoraya* · Pettre Taylor* · Pillz N Poizn*
“Four knotted cord frog fastenings in pink running down the centre front of the jacket, reworked in a pastel colourway.”

United States → ChinaAnother region
2 looks · 2 houses · dragon / phoenix motif, gold metallic-thread embroidery, pankou / frog closures
“Embroidered sinuous dragons with whiskered heads amid gold auspicious cloud scrolls (xiangyun), rendered on a Western trucker-style black jacket.”


United Kingdom → ChinaAnother region
1 look · 1 house · dajin side-fastening jacket
“Asymmetric front panel crossing diagonally from collar toward the right side, fastened at the neck and down the side, recalling the Chinese dajin overlapping closure.”

Lebanon → ChinaAnother region
1 look · 1 house · qipao / cheongsam
“Tall stiff stand collar with closure detail at the throat on a close-fitting sheath bodice, recalling a qipao; rendered in sheer black lace with tulle side panels.”

By where the house is based
Looks drawing on another country's tradition, and the traditions drawn on most
- Italy139 looks · 27 houses
Japan (18) · India (15) · Ecuador (15) · Central Asian (unspecified) (13)
- France75 looks · 21 houses
Japan (23) · Scotland (17) · China (17) · Spain (7)
- Japan56 looks · 24 houses
Scotland (26) · China (13) · Spain (4) · Mexico (3)
- Denmark52 looks · 16 houses
India (15) · China (10) · Scotland (9) · Spain (5)
- United States50 looks · 16 houses
Scotland (15) · India (9) · Ghana (6) · Spain (5)
- Nigeria29 looks · 14 houses
Morocco (7) · China (6) · Japan (3) · Mali (3)
- Germany25 looks · 9 houses
China (13) · Spain (5) · Austria (2) · Japan (2)
- Belgium24 looks · 3 houses
Scotland (8) · Andean (7) · India (7) · Austria (1)
- United Kingdom20 looks · 9 houses
West African (unspecified) (4) · Japan (4) · Spain (3) · Andean (2)
- South Africa9 looks · 2 houses
Japan (4) · West African (unspecified) (3) · Mali (2) · Fulani (1)
- Lebanon8 looks · 2 houses
India (7) · China (1)
- Côte d’Ivoire5 looks · 1 house
Fulani (2) · Yoruba (2) · Ghana (1) · South Asian (unspecified) (1)
- Mexico5 looks · 4 houses
Japan (2) · China (1) · Korea (1) · Spain (1)
- South Korea5 looks · 1 house
European (unspecified) (2) · Austria (1) · Japan (1) · Russia (1)
- Brazil4 looks · 3 houses
China (1) · European (unspecified) (1) · Japan (1) · Palestine (1)
- China3 looks · 3 houses
Japan (3)
- India3 looks · 2 houses
Cambodia (1) · Scotland (1) · Spain (1)
- Sweden2 looks · 2 houses
Austria (1) · Korea (1)
- Netherlands2 looks · 2 houses
Japan (1) · West African (unspecified) (1)
- Ghana2 looks · 1 house
Yoruba (2)
By tradition
Looks by houses based elsewhere, and where those houses are based
- Scotland91 looks · 9 countries
Japan (26) · France (17) · United States (15) · Italy (13)
- China72 looks · 11 countries
France (17) · Japan (13) · Germany (13) · Denmark (10)
- Japan68 looks · 13 countries
France (23) · Italy (18) · Denmark (4) · United Kingdom (4)
- India59 looks · 8 countries
Denmark (15) · Italy (15) · United States (9) · Lebanon (7)
- Spain39 looks · 12 countries
France (7) · Denmark (5) · Germany (5) · Italy (5)
- Morocco17 looks · 3 countries
Italy (8) · Nigeria (7) · France (2)
- Ecuador16 looks · 2 countries
Italy (15) · United Kingdom (1)
- Central Asian (unspecified)16 looks · 2 countries
Italy (13) · Denmark (3)
- South Asian (unspecified)13 looks · 8 countries
Denmark (4) · Italy (3) · Germany (1) · France (1)
- Austria12 looks · 7 countries
Italy (4) · Germany (2) · United States (2) · France (1)
- West African (unspecified)11 looks · 6 countries
United Kingdom (4) · South Africa (3) · France (1) · Italy (1)
- Native American (unspecified)10 looks · 3 countries
Italy (7) · Japan (2) · United Kingdom (1)
- East Asian (unspecified)10 looks · 5 countries
Italy (3) · United States (3) · France (2) · Denmark (1)
- Andean10 looks · 3 countries
Belgium (7) · United Kingdom (2) · Italy (1)
- Ghana9 looks · 3 countries
United States (6) · Nigeria (2) · Côte d’Ivoire (1)
- Mexico8 looks · 4 countries
Japan (3) · United States (3) · Belgium (1) · France (1)
- Middle Eastern (unspecified)6 looks · 4 countries
Italy (2) · Nigeria (2) · Denmark (1) · United Kingdom (1)
- Yoruba5 looks · 3 countries
Côte d’Ivoire (2) · Ghana (2) · Denmark (1)
- Germany5 looks · 3 countries
Denmark (2) · United Kingdom (2) · Italy (1)
- Greece5 looks · 1 country
Italy (5)
How each look is placed
- Another region From another region
- Neighbouring From a neighbouring country
- Home tradition The house's own tradition
- Own region From the house's own region
- Can't tell Indigenous tradition, on the house's home ground
- Base unknown House base not recorded
* Base inferred from the national fashion week the house shows at; the house has no recorded base.
How we read it
Read from the runway photographs by our AI tagger: an element counts when it is recognisably drawn from a specific dress or craft tradition and the tagger is at least 60% confident. It describes the clothes only, never the person wearing them, and it is not a statement by the house.
A look is borrowed when the house that showed it is based outside the country the tradition comes from. We compare the house's base (recorded, or inferred from the one national fashion week it shows at) with the tradition the tagger named. Traditions the tagger could only place by region, such as “West African”, count as borrowed only when the house is based outside that region. For Indigenous traditions a house based on the same territory may or may not belong to the community, so those looks are marked “can’t tell”. A house’s base says nothing about its designers’ own heritage, and borrowing is not a verdict: it can be collaboration, homage or appropriation, which the photographs can’t show.
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