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Cultural influences · SS27

Who borrowed from whom

Every pairing of a house and a tradition from outside the country it is based in: who drew on it, what they took, and the look that shows it.

47%Of referencing looks were borrowed
389Looks reached into another region
166Houses borrowed
24Countries they are based in

Where each look stands

1102 looks that drew on a tradition, by how the tradition relates to the house
  • From another region 389
  • From a neighbouring country 135
  • Home tradition or own region 472
  • Can't tell 146

Houses based in Belgium

2 pairings, most looks first
  1. Dries Van Noten, look 63: tartan / kilt

    Belgium → ScotlandNeighbouring

    8 looks · 2 houses · tartan / kilt, harris tweed

    Dries Van Noten · Julie Kegels

    “Knee-length dark tartan-check skirt with flat wrapped front panel and pressed pleats massed at the side, echoing kilt construction; embellished with scattered studs.”

  2. Julie Kegels, look 8: dirndl / tracht

    Belgium → AustriaNeighbouring

    1 look · 1 house · dirndl / tracht

    Julie Kegels

    “Light-blue ground with vertical stripes of tiny flowers and star-shaped edelweiss-like blooms, recalling Alpine trachten/dirndl cotton prints; Germany and Switzerland also plausible.”

By where the house is based

Looks drawing on another country's tradition, and the traditions drawn on most

  • Italy139 looks · 27 houses

    Japan (18) · India (15) · Ecuador (15) · Central Asian (unspecified) (13)

  • France75 looks · 21 houses

    Japan (23) · Scotland (17) · China (17) · Spain (7)

  • Japan56 looks · 24 houses

    Scotland (26) · China (13) · Spain (4) · Mexico (3)

  • Denmark52 looks · 16 houses

    India (15) · China (10) · Scotland (9) · Spain (5)

  • United States50 looks · 16 houses

    Scotland (15) · India (9) · Ghana (6) · Spain (5)

  • Nigeria29 looks · 14 houses

    Morocco (7) · China (6) · Japan (3) · Mali (3)

  • Germany25 looks · 9 houses

    China (13) · Spain (5) · Austria (2) · Japan (2)

  • Belgium24 looks · 3 houses

    Scotland (8) · Andean (7) · India (7) · Austria (1)

  • United Kingdom20 looks · 9 houses

    West African (unspecified) (4) · Japan (4) · Spain (3) · Andean (2)

  • South Africa9 looks · 2 houses

    Japan (4) · West African (unspecified) (3) · Mali (2) · Fulani (1)

  • Lebanon8 looks · 2 houses

    India (7) · China (1)

  • Côte d’Ivoire5 looks · 1 house

    Fulani (2) · Yoruba (2) · Ghana (1) · South Asian (unspecified) (1)

  • Mexico5 looks · 4 houses

    Japan (2) · China (1) · Korea (1) · Spain (1)

  • South Korea5 looks · 1 house

    European (unspecified) (2) · Austria (1) · Japan (1) · Russia (1)

  • Brazil4 looks · 3 houses

    China (1) · European (unspecified) (1) · Japan (1) · Palestine (1)

  • China3 looks · 3 houses

    Japan (3)

  • India3 looks · 2 houses

    Cambodia (1) · Scotland (1) · Spain (1)

  • Sweden2 looks · 2 houses

    Austria (1) · Korea (1)

  • Netherlands2 looks · 2 houses

    Japan (1) · West African (unspecified) (1)

  • Ghana2 looks · 1 house

    Yoruba (2)

By tradition

Looks by houses based elsewhere, and where those houses are based

  • Scotland91 looks · 9 countries

    Japan (26) · France (17) · United States (15) · Italy (13)

  • China72 looks · 11 countries

    France (17) · Japan (13) · Germany (13) · Denmark (10)

  • Japan68 looks · 13 countries

    France (23) · Italy (18) · Denmark (4) · United Kingdom (4)

  • India59 looks · 8 countries

    Denmark (15) · Italy (15) · United States (9) · Lebanon (7)

  • Spain39 looks · 12 countries

    France (7) · Denmark (5) · Germany (5) · Italy (5)

  • Morocco17 looks · 3 countries

    Italy (8) · Nigeria (7) · France (2)

  • Ecuador16 looks · 2 countries

    Italy (15) · United Kingdom (1)

  • Central Asian (unspecified)16 looks · 2 countries

    Italy (13) · Denmark (3)

  • South Asian (unspecified)13 looks · 8 countries

    Denmark (4) · Italy (3) · Germany (1) · France (1)

  • Austria12 looks · 7 countries

    Italy (4) · Germany (2) · United States (2) · France (1)

  • West African (unspecified)11 looks · 6 countries

    United Kingdom (4) · South Africa (3) · France (1) · Italy (1)

  • Native American (unspecified)10 looks · 3 countries

    Italy (7) · Japan (2) · United Kingdom (1)

  • East Asian (unspecified)10 looks · 5 countries

    Italy (3) · United States (3) · France (2) · Denmark (1)

  • Andean10 looks · 3 countries

    Belgium (7) · United Kingdom (2) · Italy (1)

  • Ghana9 looks · 3 countries

    United States (6) · Nigeria (2) · Côte d’Ivoire (1)

  • Mexico8 looks · 4 countries

    Japan (3) · United States (3) · Belgium (1) · France (1)

  • Middle Eastern (unspecified)6 looks · 4 countries

    Italy (2) · Nigeria (2) · Denmark (1) · United Kingdom (1)

  • Yoruba5 looks · 3 countries

    Côte d’Ivoire (2) · Ghana (2) · Denmark (1)

  • Germany5 looks · 3 countries

    Denmark (2) · United Kingdom (2) · Italy (1)

  • Greece5 looks · 1 country

    Italy (5)

How each look is placed

  • Another region From another region
  • Neighbouring From a neighbouring country
  • Home tradition The house's own tradition
  • Own region From the house's own region
  • Can't tell Indigenous tradition, on the house's home ground
  • Base unknown House base not recorded

* Base inferred from the national fashion week the house shows at; the house has no recorded base.

How we read it

Read from the runway photographs by our AI tagger: an element counts when it is recognisably drawn from a specific dress or craft tradition and the tagger is at least 60% confident. It describes the clothes only, never the person wearing them, and it is not a statement by the house.

A look is borrowed when the house that showed it is based outside the country the tradition comes from. We compare the house's base (recorded, or inferred from the one national fashion week it shows at) with the tradition the tagger named. Traditions the tagger could only place by region, such as “West African”, count as borrowed only when the house is based outside that region. For Indigenous traditions a house based on the same territory may or may not belong to the community, so those looks are marked “can’t tell”. A house’s base says nothing about its designers’ own heritage, and borrowing is not a verdict: it can be collaboration, homage or appropriation, which the photographs can’t show.

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