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Fashion Field Notes
For Publications

Paris Haute Couture SS26 · Runway show Womenswear

Viktor&Rolf

32 looks, shown 28 January 2026 in Paris. Known this season for braids / plaits, religious / ecclesiastical, colour on lids.

32Looks
4.1%Of the week's looks
10th / 21Largest show
BlackLead colour

The show

The collection, look by look

Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2026 · HC-SS26

Every look in runway order as a column of the colours measured from its garments. Hover or use the arrow keys to read each one; play to walk the show.

Look 1Look 32
BlackCharcoalGreyRedLimePurpleSilverSky blue
Look 11

Look 1 of 32

Black satin balloon-sleeve gown with sculpted skirt and yellow pleated accent

A severe, almost ecclesiastical column of black duchess satin is gathered into sculptural drapes, with a single pleated saffron fan clipped at the hip as the only interruption to its austere volume.

Black 67%Charcoal 28%Grey 5%
Shape
balloon · draped · hourglass · sculptural
Pieces
gown
Fabric
silk · pleated · ruched
Details
belts · draping · gathering · padding
Styling
mules · belted over
Mood
austere · dark · dramatic · elegant

What set Viktor&Rolf apart

Over-represented in this house's looks compared with the rest of the season.

Braids / plaits hairReligious / ecclesiastical referenceColour on lids makeupGown garmentSatin-back crepe / crepe materialRings jewellery

The palette

Share of garment area across 32 looks, measured from the clothes (skin and set excluded).

Silhouettes

  • Sculptural / architectural78%
  • Inverted triangle / strong shoulder47%
  • Hourglass / cinched waist41%
  • Column38%
  • A-line28%

Share of the 32 tagged looks.

What the collection was made of

Share of the 32 looks described by our AI tagger
  • Gown78%
  • Cape13%
  • Maxi skirt13%
  • Top (unspecified)13%
  • Scarf6%

Traditions in the collection

Cultural influences →

1 of Viktor&Rolf's 56 looks draw on a specific dress or craft tradition, as read from the photographs. The house is based in Netherlands.

  • Kimono · Japan · East AsiaLook 25

    Netherlands → Japan

    “Crossover wrapped V front with deep rectangular hanging sleeves extended along a horizontal pole, recalling a kimono displayed on an ikō rack; heavily reworked drape.”

The character of the clothes

Viktor&Rolf's clothes were darker, more muted, smoother, more formal, more daring and more experimental than most of the season.

  • DarkerLighterdarker than 96% of collections
  • MutedVividmore muted than 77% of collections
  • CoolerWarmer
  • SmoothTextured & printedsmoother than 88% of collections
  • CasualFormalmore formal than 99% of collections
  • ClassicDaringmore daring than 92% of collections
  • ExperimentalWearablemore experimental than 97% of collections

Viktor&Rolf against every other house measured so far

Also in Paris, Couture Spring/Summer 2026

Paris field notes →
  1. 1Dior63 looksBlack
  2. 2Alexis Mabille59 looksPink
  3. 3Elie Saab59 looksBeige
  4. 4Chanel54 looksBlack
  5. 5Rahul Mishra53 looksBlack
  6. 6Georges Hobeika46 looksBurgundy

The fortnightly digest

Viktor&Rolf, in context

Every house is measured against every other, across every fashion week. The fortnightly digest sends you what moved, and who moved it.