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Fashion Field Notes
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Paris Haute Couture SS26 · Runway show Womenswear

Alexis Mabille

59 looks, shown 28 January 2026 in Paris. Known this season for mermaid / fishtail, cape back / train, satin-back crepe / crepe.

59Looks
7.6%Of the week's looks
2nd / 21Largest show
PinkLead colour

The show

The collection, look by look

Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2026 · HC-SS26

Every look in runway order as a column of the colours measured from its garments. Hover or use the arrow keys to read each one; play to walk the show.

Look 1Look 59
PinkRedTealCoralBurgundyPurpleHot pinkLilac
Look 11

Look 1 of 59

Red double-breasted peplum blazer with sequinned shawl lapel and wide-leg trousers

Tonal red tailoring turned sculptural: a flared, stiffened peplum juts from the hips like architecture, while sparkling shawl lapels and jewelled buttons tip the power suit into eveningwear.

Red 66%Burgundy 34%
Shape
hourglass · peplum · sculptural · fitted
Pieces
blazer · wide-leg trousers
Fabric
sequins · wool · sequinned
Details
beading · cut-away · padding · peplum
Styling
sandals · matching set · tonal head to toe
Mood
dramatic · glamorous · powerful

What set Alexis Mabille apart

Over-represented in this house's looks compared with the rest of the season.

Mermaid / fishtail silhouetteCape back / train detailSatin-back crepe / crepe materialGown garmentGlamorous moodPastel colour_story

The palette

Share of garment area across 59 looks, measured from the clothes (skin and set excluded).

Silhouettes

  • Column49%
  • Mermaid / fishtail49%
  • Fitted / bodycon39%
  • Sculptural / architectural31%
  • Hourglass / cinched waist29%

Share of the 59 tagged looks.

What the collection was made of

Share of the 59 looks described by our AI tagger
  • Gown80%
  • Cape12%
  • Wide-leg trousers5%
  • Jumpsuit5%
  • Scarf5%

Traditions in the collection

Cultural influences →

2 of Alexis Mabille's 90 looks draw on a specific dress or craft tradition, as read from the photographs.

  • Pankou / frog closures · China · East AsiaLook 13

    “Row of knotted black fabric frog fastenings with loops running down the centre-front opening of the cape, in the traditional pankou style.”

  • Sari drape · India · South AsiaLook 4

    “Gold lamé panel falls diagonally from the shoulder across the torso and gathers at the hip over a long column, recalling a sari pallu. It is also readable as a generic Grecian drape.”

The character of the clothes

Alexis Mabille's clothes were lighter, more vivid, smoother, more formal and more experimental than most of the season.

  • DarkerLighterlighter than 81% of collections
  • MutedVividmore vivid than 99% of collections
  • CoolerWarmer
  • SmoothTextured & printedsmoother than 91% of collections
  • CasualFormalmore formal than 97% of collections
  • ClassicDaring
  • ExperimentalWearablemore experimental than 78% of collections

Alexis Mabille against every other house measured so far

Also in Paris, Couture Spring/Summer 2026

Paris field notes →
  1. 1Dior63 looksBlack
  2. 2Elie Saab59 looksBeige
  3. 3Chanel54 looksBlack
  4. 4Rahul Mishra53 looksBlack
  5. 5Georges Hobeika46 looksBurgundy
  6. 6Zuhair Murad46 looksSilver

The fortnightly digest

Alexis Mabille, in context

Every house is measured against every other, across every fashion week. The fortnightly digest sends you what moved, and who moved it.