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Fashion Field Notes
For Publications

Paris Fashion Week SS27 · Runway show Womenswear

Undercover

70 looks, shown 2 October 2026 in Paris. Known this season for rosettes / corsages, washed / faded, mini bag.

70Looks
2.9%Of the week's looks
2nd / 58Largest show
CharcoalLead colour

The collection, look by look

Womenswear Spring/Summer 2027 · SS27

Every look in runway order as a column of the colours measured from its garments. Hover or use the arrow keys to read each one; play to walk the show.

Look 1Look 70
CharcoalBlackChocolate brownBeigeIvoryGreyOliveWhite
Look 11

Look 1 of 70

Butter-yellow washed cotton blazer and slim trousers with red printed shirt

A sun-faded dandy suit, all washed butter-yellow cotton with piped edges and gingham-lined cuffs, enlivened by a red printed shirt, yellow corsage and wide-brim panama for a nostalgic, gently eccentric take on tailoring.

Olive 38%Butter yellow 35%Gold 21%Ivory 5%
Shape
inverted triangle · straight · fitted
Pieces
blazer · shirt · trousers
Fabric
cotton · crumpled
Details
piping · raw · rosettes · shoulder emphasis
Styling
derbies · layered · open · sleeves pushed
Mood
nostalgic · playful

What set Undercover apart

Over-represented in this house's looks compared with the rest of the season.

Rosettes / corsages detailWashed / faded finishMini bag accessoryNostalgic moodCrumpled / creased surfaceCovered by headwear hair

The palette

Share of garment area across 70 looks, measured from the clothes (skin and set excluded).

Silhouettes

  • Straight / tubular66%
  • Oversized33%
  • Asymmetric24%
  • High-rise24%
  • Inverted triangle / strong shoulder21%

Share of the 70 tagged looks.

What the collection was made of

Share of the 70 looks described by our AI tagger
  • Trousers41%
  • Shirt34%
  • Top (unspecified)19%
  • Jacket16%
  • Scarf14%

Traditions in the collection

Cultural influences →

1 of Undercover's 251 looks draw on a specific dress or craft tradition, as read from the photographs.

  • Rastafari lion of judah motif · Jamaica · Latin America & CaribbeanLook 21

    “Chest graphic of a crowned lion carrying a flag, the Lion of Judah emblem, encircled by the text 'LOVE RASTAFARI AND LIVE'.”

The character of the clothes

Undercover's clothes were more casual than most of the season.

  • DarkerLighter
  • MutedVivid
  • CoolerWarmer
  • SmoothTextured & printed
  • CasualFormalmore casual than 83% of collections
  • ClassicDaring
  • ExperimentalWearable

Undercover against every other house measured so far

Also in Paris, Spring/Summer 2027

Paris field notes →
  1. 1Balenciaga72 looksIvory
  2. 2Loewe67 looksBlack
  3. 3Dior66 looksBlack
  4. 4Elie Saab64 looksTan
  5. 5Maison Margiela62 looksBlack
  6. 6Dries Van Noten61 looksTan

The fortnightly digest

Undercover, in context

Every house is measured against every other, across every fashion week. The fortnightly digest sends you what moved, and who moved it.