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Fashion Field Notes
For Publications

Paris Men's SS27 · Runway show Menswear

Undercover

43 looks, shown 27 June 2026 in Paris. Known this season for bucket hat, photographic print, t-shirt.

43Looks
3.9%Of the week's looks
12th / 25Largest show
CharcoalLead colour

The collection, look by look

Menswear Spring/Summer 2027 · SS27

Every look in runway order as a column of the colours measured from its garments. Hover or use the arrow keys to read each one; play to walk the show.

Look 1Look 43
CharcoalGreyNavyTanRedBlackChocolate brownDenim blue
Look 11

Look 1 of 43

Collarless chocolate wool suit over striped tee with yellow-lens shades

Soft, collarless tailoring cut generously and dressed down with a Breton tee, fisherman beanie and studded derbies, a nocturnal seaside take on relaxed workwear suiting.

Charcoal 100%
Shape
boxy · oversized · relaxed
Pieces
blazer · t-shirt · wide-leg trousers
Fabric
jersey · wool
Details
hardware · utility pockets · stripes
Styling
derbies · layered · matching set
Mood
austere · dark · relaxed

What set Undercover apart

Over-represented in this house's looks compared with the rest of the season.

Bucket hat headwearPhotographic print patternT-shirt garmentRings jewelleryWashed / faded colour_storyArt / artist reference reference

The palette

Share of garment area across 43 looks, measured from the clothes (skin and set excluded).

Silhouettes

  • Oversized65%
  • Straight / tubular60%
  • Boxy51%
  • High-rise5%
  • Draped5%

Share of the 43 tagged looks.

What the collection was made of

Share of the 43 looks described by our AI tagger
  • T-shirt56%
  • Wide-leg trousers40%
  • Shirt33%
  • Jacket23%
  • Trousers21%

Traditions in the collection

Cultural influences →

1 of Undercover's 251 looks draw on a specific dress or craft tradition, as read from the photographs. The house is based in Japan.

  • Rastafari lion of judah motif · Jamaica · Latin America & CaribbeanLook 21

    Japan → Jamaica

    “Chest graphic of a crowned lion carrying a flag, the Lion of Judah emblem, encircled by the text 'LOVE RASTAFARI AND LIVE'.”

The character of the clothes

Undercover's clothes were more casual and more wearable than most of the season.

  • DarkerLighter
  • MutedVivid
  • CoolerWarmer
  • SmoothTextured & printed
  • CasualFormalmore casual than 94% of collections
  • ClassicDaring
  • ExperimentalWearablemore wearable than 78% of collections

Undercover against every other house measured so far

Also in Paris, Spring/Summer 2027

Paris field notes →
  1. 1Louis Vuitton79 looksCharcoal
  2. 2Rick Owens72 looksBlack
  3. 3Amiri63 looksCharcoal
  4. 4Junya Watanabe Man62 looksCharcoal
  5. 5Lemaire60 looksBlack
  6. 6Ami Paris56 looksBlack

The fortnightly digest

Undercover, in context

Every house is measured against every other, across every fashion week. The fortnightly digest sends you what moved, and who moved it.