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Fashion Field Notes
For Publications

Paris Men's FW26 · Runway show Menswear

Undercover

79 looks, shown 24 January 2026 in Paris. Known this season for beanie, utilitarian, sneakers.

79Looks
6%Of the week's looks
3rd / 28Largest show
BlackLead colour

The collection, look by look

Menswear Fall/Winter 2026-2027 · FW26

Every look in runway order as a column of the colours measured from its garments. Hover or use the arrow keys to read each one; play to walk the show.

Look 1Look 79
BlackCharcoalGreyChocolate brownRedTanSilverNavy
Look 11

Look 1 of 79

Soft charcoal pinstripe suit with black shirt and ribbed beanie

Tailoring deliberately undone: a crumpled, lightweight pinstripe suit worn loose over a black shirt, grounded by a workaday beanie, gloves and a tiny pouch bag. It reads as considered, poetic everyday uniform.

Charcoal 81%Black 19%
Shape
high-rise · oversized · straight · relaxed
Pieces
blazer · shirt · wide-leg trousers
Fabric
cotton · wool · crumpled
Details
belts · pinstripe
Styling
loafers · matching set · tonal head to toe · tucked in
Mood
austere · nostalgic · relaxed

What set Undercover apart

Over-represented in this house's looks compared with the rest of the season.

Beanie headwearUtilitarian moodSneakers footwearDerbies / oxfords footwearSneakers accessoryStreetwear style

The palette

Share of garment area across 79 looks, measured from the clothes (skin and set excluded).

Silhouettes

  • Straight / tubular82%
  • Oversized54%
  • Boxy38%
  • High-rise15%
  • Cocoon8%

Share of the 79 tagged looks.

What the collection was made of

Share of the 79 looks described by our AI tagger
  • Wide-leg trousers44%
  • Trousers33%
  • Knit sweater30%
  • T-shirt23%
  • Jeans23%

Traditions in the collection

Cultural influences →

1 of Undercover's 251 looks draw on a specific dress or craft tradition, as read from the photographs. The house is based in Japan.

  • Rastafari lion of judah motif · Jamaica · Latin America & CaribbeanLook 21

    Japan → Jamaica

    “Chest graphic of a crowned lion carrying a flag, the Lion of Judah emblem, encircled by the text 'LOVE RASTAFARI AND LIVE'.”

The character of the clothes

Undercover's clothes were darker, more muted, smoother, more casual, more classic and more wearable than most of the season.

  • DarkerLighterdarker than 95% of collections
  • MutedVividmore muted than 94% of collections
  • CoolerWarmer
  • SmoothTextured & printedsmoother than 94% of collections
  • CasualFormalmore casual than 89% of collections
  • ClassicDaringmore classic than 80% of collections
  • ExperimentalWearablemore wearable than 88% of collections

Undercover against every other house measured so far

Also in Paris, Fall/Winter 2026

Paris field notes →
  1. 1Willy Chavarria103 looksBlack
  2. 2Louis Vuitton82 looksBlack
  3. 3Sacai75 looksBlack
  4. 4Dries Van Noten68 looksBlack
  5. 5Dior64 looksBlack
  6. 6Lemaire64 looksBlack

The fortnightly digest

Undercover, in context

Every house is measured against every other, across every fashion week. The fortnightly digest sends you what moved, and who moved it.