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Fashion Field Notes
For Publications

Paris Fashion Week FW26 · Runway show Womenswear

Undercover

59 looks, shown 6 March 2026 in Paris. Known this season for beanie, cap, cap.

59Looks
2.4%Of the week's looks
10th / 57Largest show
NavyLead colour

The collection, look by look

Womenswear Fall/Winter 2026-2027 · FW26

Every look in runway order as a column of the colours measured from its garments. Hover or use the arrow keys to read each one; play to walk the show.

Look 1Look 59
NavyCharcoalBlackGreyChocolate brownWhiteIvorySilver
Look 11

Look 1 of 59

Collarless navy wool jacket over draped black jersey and zipped leather trousers

Soft tailoring meets biker edge: a curved-seam collarless jacket floats over an asymmetric jersey drape, while zip-ankle leather trousers and chain-embroidered funnel neck add a nocturnal, urban toughness.

Charcoal 100%
Shape
asymmetric · draped · inverted triangle · fitted
Pieces
jacket · top (unspecified) · trousers · tunic
Fabric
jersey · leather · wool · ruched
Details
cut-away · draping · embroidery · hardware
Styling
ankle boots · layered · tonal head to toe
Mood
austere · dark · edgy

What set Undercover apart

Over-represented in this house's looks compared with the rest of the season.

Beanie headwearCap headwearCap accessoryJeans garmentStreetwear styleNavy colour

The palette

Share of garment area across 59 looks, measured from the clothes (skin and set excluded).

Silhouettes

  • Oversized59%
  • Straight / tubular47%
  • Inverted triangle / strong shoulder22%
  • Cocoon22%
  • Boxy20%

Share of the 59 tagged looks.

What the collection was made of

Share of the 59 looks described by our AI tagger
  • Trousers41%
  • Jeans34%
  • Knit sweater32%
  • Bomber19%
  • Jacket17%

Traditions in the collection

Cultural influences →

1 of Undercover's 251 looks draw on a specific dress or craft tradition, as read from the photographs. The house is based in Japan.

  • Rastafari lion of judah motif · Jamaica · Latin America & CaribbeanLook 21

    Japan → Jamaica

    “Chest graphic of a crowned lion carrying a flag, the Lion of Judah emblem, encircled by the text 'LOVE RASTAFARI AND LIVE'.”

The character of the clothes

Undercover's clothes were more muted, cooler, smoother and more casual than most of the season.

  • DarkerLighter
  • MutedVividmore muted than 76% of collections
  • CoolerWarmercooler than 83% of collections
  • SmoothTextured & printedsmoother than 75% of collections
  • CasualFormalmore casual than 90% of collections
  • ClassicDaring
  • ExperimentalWearable

Undercover against every other house measured so far

Also in Paris, Fall/Winter 2026

Paris field notes →
  1. 1Balenciaga82 looksBlack
  2. 2Celine70 looksForest green
  3. 3Isabel Marant67 looksBlack
  4. 4Dior66 looksBlack
  5. 5Loewe66 looksBlack
  6. 6Miu Miu66 looksBlack

The fortnightly digest

Undercover, in context

Every house is measured against every other, across every fashion week. The fortnightly digest sends you what moved, and who moved it.