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Fashion Field Notes
For Publications

Paris Fashion Week SS27 · Runway show Womenswear

Maison Margiela

By Glenn Martens. 62 looks, shown 29 September 2026 in Paris. Known this season for v-neck, slicked back / wet look, wrap / tie.

OTB · luxury

62Looks
2.6%Of the week's looks
6th / 58Largest show
BlackLead colour

The show

The collection, look by look

Womenswear Spring/Summer 2027 · SS27

Every look in runway order as a column of the colours measured from its garments. Hover or use the arrow keys to read each one; play to walk the show.

Look 1Look 62
BlackBeigeCharcoalWhiteIvoryOliveTanChocolate brown
Look 11

Look 1 of 62

Draped-collar beige trench with open-toe leather boot-sandals and burgundy bag

A classic trench is reworked with a fluid cowl-draped front that softens its military rigour, while knee-high leather shafts that open into sandals turn a utilitarian staple into something quietly subversive.

Beige 68%Tan 15%Black 11%Chocolate brown 6%
Shape
draped · hourglass · straight · fitted
Pieces
skirt · top (unspecified) · trench coat
Fabric
chiffon · cotton · sheer mesh · crinkled
Details
belts · draping · oversized collar · shoulder emphasis
Styling
knee-high boots · belted over · layered · tonal head to toe
Mood
austere · elegant · subversive

What set Maison Margiela apart

Over-represented in this house's looks compared with the rest of the season.

V-neck necklineSlicked back / wet look hairWrap / tie closureBeige / camel colourSandals accessoryTop (unspecified) garment

The palette

Share of garment area across 62 looks, measured from the clothes (skin and set excluded).

Silhouettes

  • Straight / tubular69%
  • Column42%
  • High-rise34%
  • Draped27%
  • Asymmetric15%

Share of the 62 tagged looks.

What the collection was made of

Share of the 62 looks described by our AI tagger
  • Top (unspecified)31%
  • Trousers23%
  • Scarf21%
  • Shirt19%
  • Dress19%

Traditions in the collection

Cultural influences →

6 of Maison Margiela's 62 looks draw on a specific dress or craft tradition, as read from the photographs.

  • Tabi · Japan · East Asia5 looks

    “White calf-high boots with a clearly split toe separating the big toe, the defining feature of Japanese jika-tabi, reworked as painted leather boots.”

  • Kimono / obi brocade · Japan · East AsiaLook 21

    “Black ground with large orange blossoms, black flower silhouettes and metallic gold leaf motifs in a scattered kimono-cloth layout, apparently repurposed vintage kimono silk.”

The character of the clothes

Maison Margiela sat near the middle of the season on colour, texture and attitude.

  • DarkerLighter
  • MutedVivid
  • CoolerWarmer
  • SmoothTextured & printed
  • CasualFormal
  • ClassicDaring
  • ExperimentalWearable

Maison Margiela against every other house measured so far

Also in Paris, Spring/Summer 2027

Paris field notes →
  1. 1Balenciaga72 looksIvory
  2. 2Undercover70 looksCharcoal
  3. 3Loewe67 looksBlack
  4. 4Dior66 looksBlack
  5. 5Elie Saab64 looksTan
  6. 6Dries Van Noten61 looksTan

The fortnightly digest

Maison Margiela, in context

Every house is measured against every other, across every fashion week. The fortnightly digest sends you what moved, and who moved it.