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Paris Fashion Week SS27 · Runway show Womenswear

Icicle

By Sabato De Sarno. 41 looks, shown 1 October 2026 in Paris. Known this season for sandals, strappy heeled sandals, sandals.

eu.icicle.com ↗

41Looks
1.2%Of the week's looks
45th / 79Largest show
BlackLead colour

The show

The collection, look by look

Womenswear Spring/Summer 2027 · SS27

Every look in runway order as a column of the colours measured from its garments. Hover or use the arrow keys to read each one; play to walk the show.

Look 1Look 41
BlackSilverTanBeigeChocolate brownGreyPinkSky blue
Look 11

Look 1 of 41

Oversized lilac coat over pink knit and ombré satin culottes

A soft-focus study in tonal pinks and lilacs: masculine oversized tailoring is sweetened by a bubblegum knit, gradient satin trousers and a fluffy textured clutch, making pastel feel grown-up rather than girlish.

Lilac 50%Pink 32%Burgundy 18%
Shape
high-rise · oversized · straight · relaxed
Pieces
knit sweater · overcoat · wide-leg trousers
Fabric
knit · silk · wool · pleated
Details
pleats · shoulder emphasis · ombre
Styling
strappy heeled sandals · layered · open · tonal head to toe
Mood
relaxed · romantic · serene

Who designs Icicle

eu.icicle.com ↗

Creative director

Sabato De Sarno

Since September 2026 · 2 months

Italian

Italian designer who led Gucci before being named creative director of ICICLE in September 2026. At the Chinese-owned house, which has kept Paris ateliers since 2013 and shows during Paris Fashion Week, he oversees women's and men's ready-to-wear, accessories and eyewear. His first ICICLE collection is planned for Autumn/Winter 2027-28, with Bénédicte Laloux staying on as design director of the women's show line.

Their runway style →

What set Icicle apart

Over-represented in this house's looks compared with the rest of the season.

Sandals accessoryStrappy heeled sandals footwearSandals footwearSilver colourDropped shoulder sleeveQuiet luxury style

The palette

Share of garment area across 41 looks, measured from the clothes (skin and set excluded).

Silhouettes

  • Oversized63%
  • Straight / tubular59%
  • Inverted triangle / strong shoulder24%
  • High-rise24%
  • Column22%

Share of the 41 tagged looks.

What the collection was made of

Share of the 41 looks described by our AI tagger
  • Shirt37%
  • Wide-leg trousers27%
  • Midi skirt17%
  • Jacket17%
  • Top (unspecified)15%

Traditions in the collection

Cultural influences →

1 of Icicle's 92 looks draw on a specific dress or craft tradition, as read from the photographs. The house is based in China.

  • Icicle, look 14: obi
    Obi · Japan · East AsiaLook 14

    China → Japan

    “Wide, flat, stiff-looking ribbed grey band wrapped high around the waist over a wrap-front jacket, cinching it like an obi sash.”

The character of the clothes

Icicle's clothes were smoother, more classic and more wearable than most of the season.

  • DarkerLighter
  • MutedVivid
  • CoolerWarmer
  • SmoothTextured & printedsmoother than 95% of collections
  • CasualFormal
  • ClassicDaringmore classic than 75% of collections
  • ExperimentalWearablemore wearable than 80% of collections

Icicle against every other house measured so far

Also in Paris, Spring/Summer 2027

Paris field notes →
  1. 1Balenciaga72 looksIvory
  2. 2Undercover70 looksCharcoal
  3. 3Loewe67 looksBlack
  4. 4Dior66 looksBlack
  5. 5Elie Saab64 looksTan
  6. 6Maison Margiela62 looksBlack

The fortnightly digest

Icicle, in context

Every house is measured against every other, across every fashion week. The fortnightly digest sends you what moved, and who moved it.