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Fashion Field Notes
For Publications

Paris Fashion Week FW26 · Runway show Womenswear

Icicle

51 looks, shown 5 March 2026 in Paris. Known this season for cocoon, quiet luxury, ankle boots.

51Looks
2%Of the week's looks
17th / 57Largest show
BlackLead colour

The show

The collection, look by look

Womenswear Fall/Winter 2026-2027 · FW26

Every look in runway order as a column of the colours measured from its garments. Hover or use the arrow keys to read each one; play to walk the show.

Look 1Look 51
BlackCharcoalBeigeIvoryOliveGreyRedTan
Look 11

Look 1 of 51

Cream wool cocoon coat with scarf collar and tassel belt

A study in tonal cream: the attached scarf collar and oversized silk tassel turn a quiet-luxury coat into something softly ceremonial, with a slouchy pouch bag echoing the enveloping volume.

Ivory 73%Beige 27%
Shape
cocoon · draped · oversized · relaxed
Pieces
coat · dress
Fabric
silk · wool
Details
belts · draping · oversized collar · slits
Styling
knee-high boots · belted over · layered · tonal head to toe
Mood
elegant · relaxed · serene

What set Icicle apart

Over-represented in this house's looks compared with the rest of the season.

Cocoon silhouetteQuiet luxury styleAnkle boots accessoryKnit sweater garmentAnkle boots footwearMid heel_height

The palette

Share of garment area across 51 looks, measured from the clothes (skin and set excluded).

Silhouettes

  • Oversized75%
  • Straight / tubular49%
  • Cocoon35%
  • Inverted triangle / strong shoulder20%
  • Column20%

Share of the 51 tagged looks.

What the collection was made of

Share of the 51 looks described by our AI tagger
  • Shirt43%
  • Knit sweater35%
  • Wide-leg trousers25%
  • Trousers25%
  • Overcoat22%

Traditions in the collection

Cultural influences →

1 of Icicle's 92 looks draw on a specific dress or craft tradition, as read from the photographs. The house is based in China.

  • Obi · Japan · East AsiaLook 14

    China → Japan

    “Wide, flat, stiff-looking ribbed grey band wrapped high around the waist over a wrap-front jacket, cinching it like an obi sash.”

The character of the clothes

Icicle's clothes were smoother and more wearable than most of the season.

  • DarkerLighter
  • MutedVivid
  • CoolerWarmer
  • SmoothTextured & printedsmoother than 94% of collections
  • CasualFormal
  • ClassicDaring
  • ExperimentalWearablemore wearable than 77% of collections

Icicle against every other house measured so far

Also in Paris, Fall/Winter 2026

Paris field notes →
  1. 1Balenciaga82 looksBlack
  2. 2Celine70 looksForest green
  3. 3Isabel Marant67 looksBlack
  4. 4Dior66 looksBlack
  5. 5Loewe66 looksBlack
  6. 6Miu Miu66 looksBlack

The fortnightly digest

Icicle, in context

Every house is measured against every other, across every fashion week. The fortnightly digest sends you what moved, and who moved it.