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Fashion Field Notes
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Paris Fashion Week SS27 · Runway show Womenswear

Ann Demeulemeester

By Stefano Gallici. 44 looks, shown 3 October 2026 in Paris. Known this season for feathers, feathers, distressing.

anndemeulemeester.com ↗

44Looks
1.3%Of the week's looks
35th / 79Largest show
BlackLead colour

The show

The collection, look by look

Womenswear Spring/Summer 2027 · SS27

Every look in runway order as a column of the colours measured from its garments. Hover or use the arrow keys to read each one; play to walk the show.

Look 1Look 44
BlackWhiteCharcoalGreySilverIvoryDenim blueNavy
Look 11

Look 1 of 44

Sheer lace high-neck harness top with feathered petal skirt over ivory trousers

Victorian lace and tumbling petal-like frills are cut loose with strappy harness ties and slouchy cuffed trousers, so the bridal romance reads as undone rather than precious.

White 61%Ivory 20%Grey 19%
Shape
asymmetric · tiered · fitted · relaxed
Pieces
skirt · top (unspecified) · trousers
Fabric
chiffon · cotton · feathers · fringe
Details
cut-away · cut-outs · feathers · fringe
Styling
ballet flats · bare midriff · layered · tonal head to toe
Mood
dramatic · romantic · whimsical

Who designs Ann Demeulemeester

anndemeulemeester.com ↗

Creative director

Stefano Gallici

Since 2023 · about 3 years

Italian

Stefano Gallici joined Ann Demeulemeester's design team in 2020, working in its menswear studio. In 2023 he was named creative director after Ludovic de Saint Sernin left the Belgian house after one season. He leads its menswear and womenswear collections, shown in Paris, and has directed its campaigns and the opening of new boutiques in Milan and Paris.

Their runway style →

What set Ann Demeulemeester apart

Over-represented in this house's looks compared with the rest of the season.

Feathers materialFeathers detailDistressing detailFeathered surfaceVictorian eraGrunge-luxe style

The palette

Share of garment area across 44 looks, measured from the clothes (skin and set excluded).

Silhouettes

  • Straight / tubular50%
  • Asymmetric39%
  • Tiered / layered volume30%
  • Inverted triangle / strong shoulder23%
  • Draped20%

Share of the 44 tagged looks.

What the collection was made of

Share of the 44 looks described by our AI tagger
  • Shirt30%
  • Trousers25%
  • Wide-leg trousers25%
  • Waistcoat23%
  • Top (unspecified)18%

Traditions in the collection

Cultural influences →

1 of Ann Demeulemeester's 85 looks draw on a specific dress or craft tradition, as read from the photographs. The house is based in Belgium.

  • Ann Demeulemeester, look 16: charro / sombrero
    Charro / sombrero · Mexico · Latin America & CaribbeanLook 16

    Belgium → Mexico

    “Waist-length cropped jacket with rows of silver studs along the fronts and scrolling soutache braid on the sleeves, like a charro jacket. A Spanish Andalusian chaquetilla is an alternative reading.”

The character of the clothes

Ann Demeulemeester's clothes were more muted and more experimental than most of the season.

  • DarkerLighter
  • MutedVividmore muted than 97% of collections
  • CoolerWarmer
  • SmoothTextured & printed
  • CasualFormal
  • ClassicDaring
  • ExperimentalWearablemore experimental than 77% of collections

Ann Demeulemeester against every other house measured so far

Also in Paris, Spring/Summer 2027

Paris field notes →
  1. 1Balenciaga72 looksIvory
  2. 2Undercover70 looksCharcoal
  3. 3Loewe67 looksBlack
  4. 4Dior66 looksBlack
  5. 5Elie Saab64 looksTan
  6. 6Maison Margiela62 looksBlack

The fortnightly digest

Ann Demeulemeester, in context

Every house is measured against every other, across every fashion week. The fortnightly digest sends you what moved, and who moved it.