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Fashion Field Notes
For Publications

Paris Fashion Week FW26 · Runway show Womenswear

Ann Demeulemeester

By Stefano Gallici. 41 looks, shown 7 March 2026 in Paris. Known this season for victorian, grunge-luxe, ruffles.

anndemeulemeester.com ↗

41Looks
1.3%Of the week's looks
39th / 76Largest show
BlackLead colour

The collection, look by look

Womenswear Fall/Winter 2026-2027 · FW26

Every look in runway order as a column of the colours measured from its garments. Hover or use the arrow keys to read each one; play to walk the show.

Look 1Look 41
BlackCharcoalGreySilverWhiteBurgundyIvoryChocolate brown
Look 11

Look 1 of 41

Victorian black cropped jacket over sheer tiered ruffle maxi skirt with sneakers

Victorian mourning romance pulled into the present: a fringed, beaded cropped jacket and a sheer ruffled skirt over satin briefs, grounded by worn sneakers and a feathered crown for a dark, adolescent poetry.

Black 94%Charcoal 6%
Shape
asymmetric · fitted · low-rise · tiered
Pieces
jacket · lingerie · maxi skirt
Fabric
chiffon · fringe · lace · sequins
Details
beading · belts · cut-away · feathers
Styling
sneakers · bare midriff · layered · tonal head to toe
Mood
dark · dramatic · edgy · romantic

Who designs Ann Demeulemeester

anndemeulemeester.com ↗

Creative director

Stefano Gallici

Since 2023 · about 3 years

Italian

Stefano Gallici joined Ann Demeulemeester's design team in 2020, working in its menswear studio. In 2023 he was named creative director after Ludovic de Saint Sernin left the Belgian house after one season. He leads its menswear and womenswear collections, shown in Paris, and has directed its campaigns and the opening of new boutiques in Milan and Paris.

Their runway style →

What set Ann Demeulemeester apart

Over-represented in this house's looks compared with the rest of the season.

Victorian eraGrunge-luxe styleRuffles detailLace materialPunk / subculture referenceRings jewellery

The palette

Share of garment area across 41 looks, measured from the clothes (skin and set excluded).

Silhouettes

  • Straight / tubular34%
  • Inverted triangle / strong shoulder29%
  • Oversized27%
  • Tiered / layered volume27%
  • Asymmetric24%

Share of the 41 tagged looks.

What the collection was made of

Share of the 41 looks described by our AI tagger
  • Shirt37%
  • Blouse27%
  • Waistcoat24%
  • Jeans22%
  • Maxi skirt22%

Traditions in the collection

Cultural influences →

1 of Ann Demeulemeester's 85 looks draw on a specific dress or craft tradition, as read from the photographs. The house is based in Belgium.

  • Ann Demeulemeester, look 16: charro / sombrero
    Charro / sombrero · Mexico · Latin America & CaribbeanLook 16

    Belgium → Mexico

    “Waist-length cropped jacket with rows of silver studs along the fronts and scrolling soutache braid on the sleeves, like a charro jacket. A Spanish Andalusian chaquetilla is an alternative reading.”

The character of the clothes

Ann Demeulemeester's clothes were darker and more muted than most of the season.

  • DarkerLighterdarker than 84% of collections
  • MutedVividmore muted than 91% of collections
  • CoolerWarmer
  • SmoothTextured & printed
  • CasualFormal
  • ClassicDaring
  • ExperimentalWearable

Ann Demeulemeester against every other house measured so far

Also in Paris, Fall/Winter 2026

Paris field notes →
  1. 1Balenciaga82 looksBlack
  2. 2Celine70 looksForest green
  3. 3Isabel Marant67 looksBlack
  4. 4Dior66 looksBlack
  5. 5Loewe66 looksBlack
  6. 6Miu Miu66 looksBlack

The fortnightly digest

Ann Demeulemeester, in context

Every house is measured against every other, across every fashion week. The fortnightly digest sends you what moved, and who moved it.