Press

WWDMonica Barbaro Contrasts in Plunging Black and White Brandon Maxwell Gown for GQ’s Men of the Year Party FashionistaICYMI: Hanifa's Relaunch, Nuuly Is 'Spring Awakening''s Styling Partner & Amber Valletta and Teddy Charles on Their New Hair-Care Brand FashionUnitedMr Marvis surpasses 25-store target and eyes new European markets Field NotesMilan: 25,612 looks from 549 houses, now on the map WWDCamila Cabello Embellishes Paris Texas’ Lidia Mules with Rosary Anklet at the 27th Annual Latin Grammy Awards FashionistaESP Showroom Is Hiring A Wholesale Fashion Showroom & Sales Coordinator In New York, NY (Hybrid)FashionUnitedWho is David Epstein, Hugo Boss’s next CEO?Field NotesParis: 11,161 looks from 267 houses, now on the map WWDFlorence Pugh Wears Gothic Mourning Dress with Vivienne Westwood Pumps at an East of Eden FYC Event in Los Angeles Fashionista'Angels Among Us' Winner Solange Omon Shares Advice for Aspiring Models FashionUnitedRimowa and Maison Margiela release limited-edition travel set Field NotesNew York: 2,080 looks from 49 houses, now on the map WWDAlexander Skarsgård Glistens In Liquid Satin COS Men’s Shirt with Dusty Pink Cummerbund FashionistaMust Read: Smart Glasses Launch Reopens Debate Over Privacy, How Fashion Helped Protect Great Bear Rainforest FashionUnitedMade in France: Mélenchon wants to revive French textile industry Field NotesTokyo: 1,743 looks from 54 houses, now on the map WWDDrake’s Nocta Brand Will Debut a New Nike Technology on Its Next Sneaker Release FashionistaHow This Former Teacher Built a Business Selling and Archiving Vintage Luxury Fashion FashionUnitedBrand Radar: Kardo - the Indian brand turning artisanal textiles into modern menswear Field NotesCopenhagen: 1,455 looks from 51 houses, now on the map Field NotesLagos: 1,409 looks from 50 houses, now on the map Field NotesLondon: 1,164 looks from 33 houses, now on the map Field NotesBerlin: 985 looks from 41 houses, now on the map Field NotesSão Paulo: 287 looks from 8 houses, now on the map Field NotesMexico City: 267 looks from 9 houses, now on the map Field NotesFlorence: 137 looks from 3 houses, now on the map Field NotesMadrid: 131 looks from 3 houses, now on the map Field NotesSydney: 127 looks from 4 houses, now on the map Field NotesSeoul: 37 looks from 1 houses, now on the map

WWDMonica Barbaro Contrasts in Plunging Black and White Brandon Maxwell Gown for GQ’s Men of the Year Party FashionistaICYMI: Hanifa's Relaunch, Nuuly Is 'Spring Awakening''s Styling Partner & Amber Valletta and Teddy Charles on Their New Hair-Care Brand FashionUnitedMr Marvis surpasses 25-store target and eyes new European markets Field NotesMilan: 25,612 looks from 549 houses, now on the map WWDCamila Cabello Embellishes Paris Texas’ Lidia Mules with Rosary Anklet at the 27th Annual Latin Grammy Awards FashionistaESP Showroom Is Hiring A Wholesale Fashion Showroom & Sales Coordinator In New York, NY (Hybrid)FashionUnitedWho is David Epstein, Hugo Boss’s next CEO?Field NotesParis: 11,161 looks from 267 houses, now on the map WWDFlorence Pugh Wears Gothic Mourning Dress with Vivienne Westwood Pumps at an East of Eden FYC Event in Los Angeles Fashionista'Angels Among Us' Winner Solange Omon Shares Advice for Aspiring Models FashionUnitedRimowa and Maison Margiela release limited-edition travel set Field NotesNew York: 2,080 looks from 49 houses, now on the map WWDAlexander Skarsgård Glistens In Liquid Satin COS Men’s Shirt with Dusty Pink Cummerbund FashionistaMust Read: Smart Glasses Launch Reopens Debate Over Privacy, How Fashion Helped Protect Great Bear Rainforest FashionUnitedMade in France: Mélenchon wants to revive French textile industry Field NotesTokyo: 1,743 looks from 54 houses, now on the map WWDDrake’s Nocta Brand Will Debut a New Nike Technology on Its Next Sneaker Release FashionistaHow This Former Teacher Built a Business Selling and Archiving Vintage Luxury Fashion FashionUnitedBrand Radar: Kardo - the Indian brand turning artisanal textiles into modern menswear Field NotesCopenhagen: 1,455 looks from 51 houses, now on the map Field NotesLagos: 1,409 looks from 50 houses, now on the map Field NotesLondon: 1,164 looks from 33 houses, now on the map Field NotesBerlin: 985 looks from 41 houses, now on the map Field NotesSão Paulo: 287 looks from 8 houses, now on the map Field NotesMexico City: 267 looks from 9 houses, now on the map Field NotesFlorence: 137 looks from 3 houses, now on the map Field NotesMadrid: 131 looks from 3 houses, now on the map Field NotesSydney: 127 looks from 4 houses, now on the map Field NotesSeoul: 37 looks from 1 houses, now on the map

← The Designers

Creative director, Ann Demeulemeester

Stefano Gallici

Italian

Stefano Gallici joined Ann Demeulemeester's design team in 2020, working in its menswear studio. In 2023 he was named creative director after Ludovic de Saint Sernin left the Belgian house after one season. He leads its menswear and womenswear collections, shown in Paris, and has directed its campaigns and the opening of new boutiques in Milan and Paris.

Houses

Creative director
Ann Demeulemeester
Since 2023 · about 3 years

Their runway, measured

85 looks in 2 shows

Next to every runway we track, Stefano Gallici's looks are darker, more muted, more neutral and less colour-blocked.

Colours

Black · 2.0× the average48%
Charcoal13%
White · 2.4× the average12%
Grey · 1.9× the average11%
Silver5%
Ivory / cream3%
Burgundy / oxblood2%
Navy1%

Share of garment area across their looks; × is against every runway.

Colour and surface

Lightness31/100darker · all runways 39/100
Colour saturation4.5more muted · all runways 12.6
Neutrals91%more neutral · all runways 60%
Warm hues65%about average · all runways 70%
Tonal looks34%about average · all runways 33%
Colour-blockingΔE 26less colour-blocked · all runways ΔE 35
Surface texture3.88smoother · all runways 5.06
Sheen0.061about average · all runways 0.065

What sets them apart

Shapes, fabrics and details they use far more often than other designers.

Victorian 19.8×Combat boots 13.3×Feathers 13.1×Punk / grunge 12.2×Grunge-luxe 11.9×Feathered 9.5×Lace 7.8×

Silhouettes

Straight / tubular 42%
Asymmetric 32%2.0×
Tiered / layered volume 28%4.2×
Inverted triangle / strong shoulder 26%1.4×
High-rise 20%

Materials

Lace 54%7.8×
Cotton / poplin 49%1.6×
Silk / satin 48%2.0×
Chiffon / organza / tulle 40%3.1×
Wool / tailoring cloth 36%

Details

Lacing / ties 68%4.1×
Raw / frayed hems 53%5.5×
Ruffles 52%7.0×
Hardware / studs / chains 47%3.5×
Fringe 45%5.1×

Patterns

Pinstripe 9%2.9×
Floral 9%
Abstract print 6%
Photographic print 6%5.7×
Stripes 6%

Mood

Romantic 86%5.4×
Dark 65%5.0×
Edgy 60%3.9×
Dramatic 36%2.7×
Nostalgic 31%2.0×

Era references

Victorian 61%19.8×
1970s 26%2.3×
1990s 20%2.7×
2000s / y2k 2%
1920s 2%1.8×

From the AI tags on 85 of their looks. A designer is credited with a house's shows while they lead it; ×: how much more often than across all 25,892 measured looks.

Opening looks

The first looks of each collection

Collections

Ann Demeulemeester Spring/Summer 2027 — Ann DemeulemeesterSpring/Summer 2027 · Paris · 44 looks

Ann Demeulemeester Fall/Winter 2026 — Ann DemeulemeesterFall/Winter 2026 · Paris · 41 looks