Press

WWDMonica Barbaro Contrasts in Plunging Black and White Brandon Maxwell Gown for GQ’s Men of the Year Party FashionistaICYMI: Hanifa's Relaunch, Nuuly Is 'Spring Awakening''s Styling Partner & Amber Valletta and Teddy Charles on Their New Hair-Care Brand FashionUnitedMr Marvis surpasses 25-store target and eyes new European markets Field NotesMilan: 25,612 looks from 549 houses, now on the map WWDCamila Cabello Embellishes Paris Texas’ Lidia Mules with Rosary Anklet at the 27th Annual Latin Grammy Awards FashionistaESP Showroom Is Hiring A Wholesale Fashion Showroom & Sales Coordinator In New York, NY (Hybrid)FashionUnitedWho is David Epstein, Hugo Boss’s next CEO?Field NotesParis: 11,161 looks from 267 houses, now on the map WWDFlorence Pugh Wears Gothic Mourning Dress with Vivienne Westwood Pumps at an East of Eden FYC Event in Los Angeles Fashionista'Angels Among Us' Winner Solange Omon Shares Advice for Aspiring Models FashionUnitedRimowa and Maison Margiela release limited-edition travel set Field NotesNew York: 2,080 looks from 49 houses, now on the map WWDAlexander Skarsgård Glistens In Liquid Satin COS Men’s Shirt with Dusty Pink Cummerbund FashionistaMust Read: Smart Glasses Launch Reopens Debate Over Privacy, How Fashion Helped Protect Great Bear Rainforest FashionUnitedMade in France: Mélenchon wants to revive French textile industry Field NotesTokyo: 1,743 looks from 54 houses, now on the map WWDDrake’s Nocta Brand Will Debut a New Nike Technology on Its Next Sneaker Release FashionistaHow This Former Teacher Built a Business Selling and Archiving Vintage Luxury Fashion FashionUnitedBrand Radar: Kardo - the Indian brand turning artisanal textiles into modern menswear Field NotesCopenhagen: 1,455 looks from 51 houses, now on the map Field NotesLagos: 1,409 looks from 50 houses, now on the map Field NotesLondon: 1,164 looks from 33 houses, now on the map Field NotesBerlin: 985 looks from 41 houses, now on the map Field NotesSão Paulo: 287 looks from 8 houses, now on the map Field NotesMexico City: 267 looks from 9 houses, now on the map Field NotesFlorence: 137 looks from 3 houses, now on the map Field NotesMadrid: 131 looks from 3 houses, now on the map Field NotesSydney: 127 looks from 4 houses, now on the map Field NotesSeoul: 37 looks from 1 houses, now on the map

WWDMonica Barbaro Contrasts in Plunging Black and White Brandon Maxwell Gown for GQ’s Men of the Year Party FashionistaICYMI: Hanifa's Relaunch, Nuuly Is 'Spring Awakening''s Styling Partner & Amber Valletta and Teddy Charles on Their New Hair-Care Brand FashionUnitedMr Marvis surpasses 25-store target and eyes new European markets Field NotesMilan: 25,612 looks from 549 houses, now on the map WWDCamila Cabello Embellishes Paris Texas’ Lidia Mules with Rosary Anklet at the 27th Annual Latin Grammy Awards FashionistaESP Showroom Is Hiring A Wholesale Fashion Showroom & Sales Coordinator In New York, NY (Hybrid)FashionUnitedWho is David Epstein, Hugo Boss’s next CEO?Field NotesParis: 11,161 looks from 267 houses, now on the map WWDFlorence Pugh Wears Gothic Mourning Dress with Vivienne Westwood Pumps at an East of Eden FYC Event in Los Angeles Fashionista'Angels Among Us' Winner Solange Omon Shares Advice for Aspiring Models FashionUnitedRimowa and Maison Margiela release limited-edition travel set Field NotesNew York: 2,080 looks from 49 houses, now on the map WWDAlexander Skarsgård Glistens In Liquid Satin COS Men’s Shirt with Dusty Pink Cummerbund FashionistaMust Read: Smart Glasses Launch Reopens Debate Over Privacy, How Fashion Helped Protect Great Bear Rainforest FashionUnitedMade in France: Mélenchon wants to revive French textile industry Field NotesTokyo: 1,743 looks from 54 houses, now on the map WWDDrake’s Nocta Brand Will Debut a New Nike Technology on Its Next Sneaker Release FashionistaHow This Former Teacher Built a Business Selling and Archiving Vintage Luxury Fashion FashionUnitedBrand Radar: Kardo - the Indian brand turning artisanal textiles into modern menswear Field NotesCopenhagen: 1,455 looks from 51 houses, now on the map Field NotesLagos: 1,409 looks from 50 houses, now on the map Field NotesLondon: 1,164 looks from 33 houses, now on the map Field NotesBerlin: 985 looks from 41 houses, now on the map Field NotesSão Paulo: 287 looks from 8 houses, now on the map Field NotesMexico City: 267 looks from 9 houses, now on the map Field NotesFlorence: 137 looks from 3 houses, now on the map Field NotesMadrid: 131 looks from 3 houses, now on the map Field NotesSydney: 127 looks from 4 houses, now on the map Field NotesSeoul: 37 looks from 1 houses, now on the map

← The Designers

Founder and designer, Undercover

Jun Takahashi

Japanese, born 1969

Tokyo designer who founded Undercover while studying at Bunka Fashion College and became a central figure of the 1990s Ura-Harajuku scene. Showing in Paris since the early 2000s, he is known for punk-inflected, narrative collections, art and film references, and long-running collaborations such as Nike and Supreme.

Houses

Founder and designer
Undercover
Since 1990 · about 36 years

Their runway, measured

251 looks in 4 shows

Next to every runway we track, Jun Takahashi's looks are darker, more muted, more neutral and more tonal.

Colours

Charcoal · 2.2× the average27%
Black24%
Grey8%
Navy · 1.7× the average7%
Chocolate brown5%
Tan3%
Ivory / cream3%
White3%

Share of garment area across their looks; × is against every runway.

Colour and surface

Lightness31/100darker · all runways 39/100
Colour saturation9.3more muted · all runways 12.6
Neutrals72%more neutral · all runways 60%
Warm hues66%about average · all runways 70%
Tonal looks39%more tonal · all runways 33%
Colour-blockingΔE 34about average · all runways ΔE 35
Surface texture3.39smoother · all runways 5.06
Sheen0.050more matte · all runways 0.065

What sets them apart

Shapes, fabrics and details they use far more often than other designers.

Photographic print 15.7×Streetwear 4.6×Jeans 4.4×T-shirt 4.1×Derbies / oxfords 3.9×Bomber 3.7×Zips as decoration 3.3×Quilted / padded 3.2×

Silhouettes

Straight / tubular 66%1.6×
Oversized 51%1.8×
Boxy 28%2.4×
High-rise 16%
Inverted triangle / strong shoulder 12%33% less

Materials

Cotton / poplin 44%1.4×
Jersey 37%2.5×
Wool / tailoring cloth 37%
Knit 33%1.7×
Denim 25%3.0×

Details

Utility pockets 29%2.1×
Patchwork 18%3.2×
Belts 18%
Hardware / studs / chains 17%
Piping / contrast stitching 14%

Patterns

Photographic print 16%15.7×
Stripes 9%
Floral 6%
Patchwork print 4%2.1×
Graphic / logo 4%1.6×

Mood

Relaxed 69%2.0×
Nostalgic 43%2.9×
Austere 28%1.5×
Utilitarian 22%3.1×
Serene 21%

Era references

1990s 16%2.1×
1970s 5%54% less
Victorian 3%
1940s 2%1.6×
1950s 2%

From the AI tags on 251 of their looks. A designer is credited with a house's shows while they lead it; ×: how much more often than across all 25,892 measured looks.

Opening looks

The first looks of each collection

Collections

Undercover Spring/Summer 2027 — UndercoverSpring/Summer 2027 · Paris · 70 looks

Undercover Spring/Summer 2027 — UndercoverSpring/Summer 2027 · Men · Paris · 43 looks

Undercover Fall/Winter 2026 — UndercoverFall/Winter 2026 · Paris · 59 looks

Undercover Fall/Winter 2026 — UndercoverFall/Winter 2026 · Men · Paris · 79 looks