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Fashion Field Notes
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Paris Fashion Week SS27 · Runway show Womenswear

Schiaparelli

By Daniel Roseberry. 52 looks, shown 1 October 2026 in Paris. Known this season for mules, mules, cut-outs.

Della Valle · luxury

52Looks
2.1%Of the week's looks
14th / 58Largest show
BlackLead colour

The show

The collection, look by look

Womenswear Spring/Summer 2027 · SS27

Every look in runway order as a column of the colours measured from its garments. Hover or use the arrow keys to read each one; play to walk the show.

Look 1Look 52
BlackIvoryCharcoalBeigeTanChocolate brownWhitePink
Look 11

Look 1 of 52

Black long-sleeve sculpted sheath dress with hip flap detail

A study in restrained precision: the little black dress recut with corseted seaming and peplum-like hip flaps, recalling 1940s couture suiting while staying sharply modern.

Black 100%
Shape
fitted · hourglass · peplum · fitted
Pieces
dress
Fabric
wool
Details
corsetry · peplum · shoulder emphasis
Styling
slingbacks · tonal head to toe
Mood
austere · elegant · powerful

What set Schiaparelli apart

Over-represented in this house's looks compared with the rest of the season.

Mules accessoryMules footwearCut-outs detailSensual moodFitted / bodycon silhouetteBun / updo hair

The palette

Share of garment area across 52 looks, measured from the clothes (skin and set excluded).

Silhouettes

  • Column52%
  • Fitted / bodycon44%
  • High-rise38%
  • Inverted triangle / strong shoulder35%
  • Asymmetric27%

Share of the 52 tagged looks.

What the collection was made of

Share of the 52 looks described by our AI tagger
  • Dress25%
  • Jacket23%
  • Wide-leg trousers19%
  • Gown13%
  • Corset13%

Traditions in the collection

Cultural influences →

1 of Schiaparelli's 159 looks draw on a specific dress or craft tradition, as read from the photographs. The house is based in France.

  • Pankou / frog closures · China · East AsiaLook 49

    France → China

    “Orange corded knot-and-loop fastenings down the centre front, matching the orange piping and short standing band collar, suggest Chinese pankou closures on a fitted velvet jacket.”

The character of the clothes

Schiaparelli's clothes were warmer and more formal than most of the season.

  • DarkerLighter
  • MutedVivid
  • CoolerWarmerwarmer than 89% of collections
  • SmoothTextured & printed
  • CasualFormalmore formal than 92% of collections
  • ClassicDaring
  • ExperimentalWearable

Schiaparelli against every other house measured so far

Also in Paris, Spring/Summer 2027

Paris field notes →
  1. 1Balenciaga72 looksIvory
  2. 2Undercover70 looksCharcoal
  3. 3Loewe67 looksBlack
  4. 4Dior66 looksBlack
  5. 5Elie Saab64 looksTan
  6. 6Maison Margiela62 looksBlack

The fortnightly digest

Schiaparelli, in context

Every house is measured against every other, across every fashion week. The fortnightly digest sends you what moved, and who moved it.