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Fashion Field Notes
For Publications

Paris Fashion Week SS27 · Runway show Womenswear

Mame Kurogouchi

38 looks, shown 29 September 2026 in Paris. Known this season for uniform / school, check / plaid, preppy.

38Looks
1.6%Of the week's looks
34th / 58Largest show
NavyLead colour

The show

The collection, look by look

Womenswear Spring/Summer 2027 · SS27

Every look in runway order as a column of the colours measured from its garments. Hover or use the arrow keys to read each one; play to walk the show.

Look 1Look 38
NavyCharcoalDenim blueSilverBlackSky blueGreyCobalt blue
Look 11

Look 1 of 38

Long black stand-collar coat with brooch, white collar and derbies

A cassock-like column coat, severe and near-ecclesiastical, softened by a jewelled pin at the throat and white socks. Tailoring pared to a single uninterrupted line.

Charcoal 68%Black 32%
Shape
column · inverted triangle · straight
Pieces
coat · shirt
Fabric
cotton · wool
Details
shoulder emphasis · slits
Styling
derbies · layered
Mood
austere · dark · elegant

What set Mame Kurogouchi apart

Over-represented in this house's looks compared with the rest of the season.

Uniform / school referenceCheck / plaid patternPreppy styleNavy colourEmbroidery detailVisible socks legwear

The palette

Share of garment area across 38 looks, measured from the clothes (skin and set excluded).

Silhouettes

  • Straight / tubular63%
  • Oversized45%
  • Column26%
  • High-rise26%
  • Inverted triangle / strong shoulder16%

Share of the 38 tagged looks.

What the collection was made of

Share of the 38 looks described by our AI tagger
  • Wide-leg trousers50%
  • Shirt39%
  • Scarf21%
  • Dress18%
  • Jacket16%

Traditions in the collection

Cultural influences →

2 of Mame Kurogouchi's 76 looks draw on a specific dress or craft tradition, as read from the photographs. The house is based in Japan.

  • Pankou / frog closures · China · East Asia2 looks

    Japan → China

    “Row of white knotted cord frog fastenings across the chest of the white jacket, in traditional Chinese pankou form.”

  • Tang jacket · China · East AsiaLook 34

    Japan → China

    “Collarless, slightly overlapping front fastened by frog closures, loose straight body and dropped shoulders evoke a Chinese tang-style jacket; lengthened and reworked with lace insertions.”

The character of the clothes

Mame Kurogouchi's clothes were cooler than most of the season.

  • DarkerLighter
  • MutedVivid
  • CoolerWarmercooler than 99% of collections
  • SmoothTextured & printed
  • CasualFormal
  • ClassicDaring
  • ExperimentalWearable

Mame Kurogouchi against every other house measured so far

Also in Paris, Spring/Summer 2027

Paris field notes →
  1. 1Balenciaga72 looksIvory
  2. 2Undercover70 looksCharcoal
  3. 3Loewe67 looksBlack
  4. 4Dior66 looksBlack
  5. 5Elie Saab64 looksTan
  6. 6Maison Margiela62 looksBlack

The fortnightly digest

Mame Kurogouchi, in context

Every house is measured against every other, across every fashion week. The fortnightly digest sends you what moved, and who moved it.