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Fashion Field Notes
For Publications

Paris Fashion Week SS27 · Runway show Womenswear

Acne Studios

By Jonny Johansson. 51 looks, shown 30 September 2026 in Paris. Known this season for floral, glossy / patent, clashing / mismatched.

Founded 1996 · acnestudios.com ↗

51Looks
1.5%Of the week's looks
20th / 79Largest show
BlackLead colour

The show

The collection, look by look

Womenswear Spring/Summer 2027 · SS27

Every look in runway order as a column of the colours measured from its garments. Hover or use the arrow keys to read each one; play to walk the show.

Look 1Look 51
BlackCharcoalBeigeIvoryChocolate brownTanOliveGrey
Look 11

Look 1 of 51

Washed tan leather jacket over draped blush taffeta dress and ivory trousers

A worn-in, broken-down leather jacket collides with a ballooning, gathered taffeta skirt-dress layered over slim ivory trousers: eveningwear volume treated with nonchalant, everyday ease.

Tan 58%Beige 21%Ivory 21%
Shape
balloon · draped · oversized · tiered
Pieces
dress · leather jacket · trousers
Fabric
cotton · leather · taffeta · crumpled
Details
distressing · draping · gathering · padding
Styling
ankle boots · layered · open · tonal head to toe
Mood
edgy · relaxed · romantic

Who designs Acne Studios

acnestudios.com ↗

Co-founder and creative director

Jonny Johansson

Since 1996 · about 30 years

Swedish

Swedish designer who co-founded Acne in Stockholm in 1996 as a creative collective, starting with a small run of raw denim jeans. He has since grown it into a ready-to-wear label shown in Paris, known for its off-kilter minimalism, oversized knits and art collaborations; the house marked its 30th year in 2026.

Their runway style →

What set Acne Studios apart

Over-represented in this house's looks compared with the rest of the season.

Floral patternGlossy / patent finishClashing / mismatched stylingDenim materialWashed / faded finishHardware / studs / chains detail

The palette

Share of garment area across 51 looks, measured from the clothes (skin and set excluded).

Silhouettes

  • Straight / tubular49%
  • Asymmetric35%
  • Balloon / bubble29%
  • Inverted triangle / strong shoulder25%
  • Oversized24%

Share of the 51 tagged looks.

What the collection was made of

Share of the 51 looks described by our AI tagger
  • Trousers39%
  • Jeans29%
  • Jacket20%
  • Shirt20%
  • Top (unspecified)18%

Traditions in the collection

Cultural influences →

1 of Acne Studios's 157 looks draw on a specific dress or craft tradition, as read from the photographs. The house is based in Sweden.

  • Acne Studios, look 9: loden
    Loden · Austria · European folk & regional dressLook 9

    Sweden → Austria

    “Dense, felted, heathered moss-green wool with a matte milled surface typical of Alpine loden cloth. Cut as a plain city overcoat; domed contrast buttons faintly recall trachten buttons.”

The character of the clothes

Acne Studios's clothes were more casual and more daring than most of the season.

  • DarkerLighter
  • MutedVivid
  • CoolerWarmer
  • SmoothTextured & printed
  • CasualFormalmore casual than 79% of collections
  • ClassicDaringmore daring than 82% of collections
  • ExperimentalWearable

Acne Studios against every other house measured so far

Also in Paris, Spring/Summer 2027

Paris field notes →
  1. 1Balenciaga72 looksIvory
  2. 2Undercover70 looksCharcoal
  3. 3Loewe67 looksBlack
  4. 4Dior66 looksBlack
  5. 5Elie Saab64 looksTan
  6. 6Maison Margiela62 looksBlack

The fortnightly digest

Acne Studios, in context

Every house is measured against every other, across every fashion week. The fortnightly digest sends you what moved, and who moved it.