Paris Men's SS27 · Runway show Menswear
Yohji Yamamoto
37 looks, shown 25 June 2026 in Paris. Known this season for face paint / prosthetics, japanese, shorts.
The show
The collection, look by look
Menswear Spring/Summer 2027 · SS27Every look in runway order as a column of the colours measured from its garments. Hover or use the arrow keys to read each one; play to walk the show.
Look 1 of 37
Black eyeleted blazer with ballooned sleeves over waistcoat and culotte shorts
Tailoring is softened and inflated: grommeted shoulders and ballooning sleeves turn a black blazer into a sculptural shell, worn over a deep-V waistcoat and fluid knee shorts with combat boots.
What set Yohji Yamamoto apart
Over-represented in this house's looks compared with the rest of the season.
The palette
- Black65%
- Charcoal12%
- Grey8%
- Burgundy / oxblood4%
- Ivory / cream3%
- White3%
Share of garment area across 37 looks, measured from the clothes (skin and set excluded).
Silhouettes
Share of the 37 tagged looks.
What the collection was made of
Share of the 37 looks described by our AI taggerTraditions in the collection
Cultural influences →25 of Yohji Yamamoto's 126 looks draw on a specific dress or craft tradition, as read from the photographs. The house is based in Japan.
- Kimono · Japan · East Asia15 looks
Home tradition
“Left-over-right crossed collar wrap, wide rectangular hanging sleeves, ankle-length straight robe; reworked in black wool with oversized proportions.”
- Geta / zori · Japan · East Asia5 looks
Home tradition
“Flat raised black platform soles with V-shaped thong straps between the toes, worn over white split-toe-style socks in the traditional manner.”
- Obi · Japan · East Asia4 looks
Home tradition
“Wide black sash wrapped at waist and tied into a large voluminous bow, plus printed sash panel, recalling obi tying, exaggerated in scale.”
- Haori · Japan · East Asia3 looks
Home tradition
“Unfastened straight-cut front with a flat collar band running down both edges and wide, square-cut dropped sleeves, lengthened to the ankle.”
- Tabi · Japan · East Asia2 looks
Home tradition
“Cream ankle socks with separated big toe, worn with thong sandals in traditional tabi manner.”
- Kanzashi / nihongami hair ornament · Japan · East AsiaLook 28
Home tradition
“Sculpted black looped hair-form headpiece pierced by long red-orange lacquer-like sticks and a comb-like ornament, recalling Edo-period nihongami coiffure with kanzashi pins.”
- Japanese calligraphy and ukiyo-e figure print · Japan · East AsiaLook 45
Home tradition
“White vertical columns of Japanese kana/kanji script beside a line-drawn figure resembling woodblock-print or ink-painting illustration on black dress front.”
- Kimono-clad figure print (ukiyo-e style) · Japan · East AsiaLook 44
Home tradition
“Large white-grey print of a standing figure in layered kimono with long trailing robes and patterned obi area, recalling ukiyo-e bijin-ga imagery.”
The character of the clothes
Yohji Yamamoto's clothes were darker, more muted, warmer, more casual and more experimental than most of the season.
- DarkerLighterdarker than 95% of collections
- MutedVividmore muted than 95% of collections
- CoolerWarmerwarmer than 78% of collections
- SmoothTextured & printed
- CasualFormalmore casual than 86% of collections
- ClassicDaring
- ExperimentalWearablemore experimental than 79% of collections
Yohji Yamamoto against every other house measured so far
Also in Paris, Spring/Summer 2027
Paris field notes →The fortnightly digest
Yohji Yamamoto, in context
Every house is measured against every other, across every fashion week. The fortnightly digest sends you what moved, and who moved it.
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