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Fashion Field Notes
For Publications

New York Fashion Week SS27 · Runway show Womenswear

Thom Browne

61 looks, shown 10 September 2026 in New York. Known this season for wide-brim hat, veil, veil / headpiece.

61Looks
10.8%Of the week's looks
3rd / 12Largest show
SilverLead colour

The collection, look by look

SS27

Every look in runway order as a column of the colours measured from its garments. Hover or use the arrow keys to read each one; play to walk the show.

Look 1Look 61
SilverBlackGreyCharcoalNavyIvoryDenim blueWhite
Look 11

Look 1 of 61

Beaded grey long coat over cropped trousers with straw boater and veil

Classic grey schoolboy tailoring is made strange: a beaded, textured frock coat, extended ribbon-tie cuffs and a red-veiled boater turn uniform codes into theatrical whimsy, sharpened by a blue lip.

Silver 74%Denim blue 17%Charcoal 4%
Shape
column · straight · relaxed
Pieces
coat · shirt · trousers
Fabric
cotton · wool · crinkled · sequinned
Details
beading · lacing · pleats · stripes
Styling
mary janes · layered · shirt and tie · tucked in
Mood
playful · subversive · whimsical

What set Thom Browne apart

Over-represented in this house's looks compared with the rest of the season.

Wide-brim hat accessoryVeil headwearVeil / headpiece accessoryMary janes footwearShirt and tie stylingBold lip makeup

The palette

Share of garment area across 61 looks, measured from the clothes (skin and set excluded).

Silhouettes

  • Straight / tubular61%
  • Column26%
  • Oversized23%
  • Sculptural / architectural20%
  • Tiered / layered volume16%

Share of the 61 tagged looks.

What the collection was made of

Share of the 61 looks described by our AI tagger
  • Shirt67%
  • Blazer31%
  • Pleated skirt26%
  • Waistcoat25%
  • Dress23%

Traditions in the collection

Cultural influences →

2 of Thom Browne's 124 looks draw on a specific dress or craft tradition, as read from the photographs. The house is based in United States.

  • Tartan / kilt · Scotland · European folk & regional dress2 looks

    United States → Scotland

    “Knee-length pleated grey wool wrap skirt on menswear, overlapping side edge, worn with knee-high socks. Kilt silhouette without tartan; could also read as a generic pleated skirt.”

The character of the clothes

Thom Browne's clothes were lighter, cooler, more textured, more daring and more experimental than most of the season.

  • DarkerLighterlighter than 92% of collections
  • MutedVivid
  • CoolerWarmercooler than 84% of collections
  • SmoothTextured & printedmore textured than 90% of collections
  • CasualFormal
  • ClassicDaringmore daring than 90% of collections
  • ExperimentalWearablemore experimental than 87% of collections

Thom Browne against every other house measured so far

Also in New York, Spring/Summer 2027

New York field notes →
  1. 1Michael Kors65 looksBlack
  2. 2Carolina Herrera63 looksBlack
  3. 3Oscar de la Renta59 looksBurgundy
  4. 4Altuzarra48 looksBlack
  5. 5Khaite47 looksBlack
  6. 6Proenza Schouler41 looksBlack

The fortnightly digest

Thom Browne, in context

Every house is measured against every other, across every fashion week. The fortnightly digest sends you what moved, and who moved it.