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Fashion Field Notes
For Publications

New York Fashion Week FW26 · Runway show Womenswear

Thom Browne

63 looks, shown 11 February 2026 in New York. Known this season for pleated skirt, pinstripe, shirt and tie.

63Looks
6.4%Of the week's looks
3rd / 23Largest show
CharcoalLead colour

The collection, look by look

FW26

Every look in runway order as a column of the colours measured from its garments. Hover or use the arrow keys to read each one; play to walk the show.

Look 1Look 63
CharcoalBlackDenim blueSilverNavySky blueGreyBurgundy
Look 11

Look 1 of 63

Grey brushed wool overcoat over navy cricket-stripe knit and tie

Prep-school uniform codes are stretched long and layered: a brushed grey overcoat, cricket-striped V-neck and skinny tie sit over a tunic-length navy layer and cropped trousers, grounded by combat boots and a croc holdall.

Denim blue 62%Black 31%Charcoal 6%
Shape
column · straight · relaxed
Pieces
knit sweater · overcoat · shirt · trousers
Fabric
cotton · knit · wool · fuzzy
Details
piping · stripes
Styling
combat boots · layered · open · shirt and tie
Mood
austere · nostalgic

What set Thom Browne apart

Over-represented in this house's looks compared with the rest of the season.

Pleated skirt garmentPinstripe patternShirt and tie stylingWaistcoat / vest garmentGenderless styleHeadband / hair accessory headwear

The palette

Share of garment area across 63 looks, measured from the clothes (skin and set excluded).

Silhouettes

  • Straight / tubular73%
  • Oversized37%
  • Tiered / layered volume37%
  • Column22%
  • Boxy17%

Share of the 63 tagged looks.

What the collection was made of

Share of the 63 looks described by our AI tagger
  • Shirt86%
  • Pleated skirt60%
  • Trousers40%
  • Knit sweater37%
  • Waistcoat37%

Traditions in the collection

Cultural influences →

2 of Thom Browne's 124 looks draw on a specific dress or craft tradition, as read from the photographs. The house is based in United States.

  • Tartan / kilt · Scotland · European folk & regional dress2 looks

    United States → Scotland

    “Knee-length pleated grey wool wrap skirt on menswear, overlapping side edge, worn with knee-high socks. Kilt silhouette without tartan; could also read as a generic pleated skirt.”

The character of the clothes

Thom Browne's clothes were darker, more muted and cooler than most of the season.

  • DarkerLighterdarker than 85% of collections
  • MutedVividmore muted than 88% of collections
  • CoolerWarmercooler than 95% of collections
  • SmoothTextured & printed
  • CasualFormal
  • ClassicDaring
  • ExperimentalWearable

Thom Browne against every other house measured so far

Also in New York, Fall/Winter 2026

New York field notes →
  1. 1Michael Kors65 looksBlack
  2. 2Carolina Herrera64 looksBlack
  3. 3Tanner Fletcher61 looksIvory
  4. 4Ulla Johnson57 looksBlack
  5. 5Khaite53 looksBlack
  6. 6Oscar de la Renta48 looksBlack

The fortnightly digest

Thom Browne, in context

Every house is measured against every other, across every fashion week. The fortnightly digest sends you what moved, and who moved it.