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Fashion Field Notes
For Publications

Copenhagen Fashion Week AW26 · Runway show Co-ed

Stem

12 looks, shown 27 January 2026 in Copenhagen. Known this season for clogs, graphic eyeliner, colour on lids.

12Looks
2.7%Of the week's looks
15th / 17Largest show
BlackLead colour

The collection, look by look

AW26 Runway · FW26

Every look in runway order as a column of the colours measured from its garments. Hover or use the arrow keys to read each one; play to walk the show.

Look 1Look 12
BlackIvoryCharcoalGreyNavyChocolate brownBeigeTan
Look 11

Look 1 of 12

Smocked brown windowpane wool halter top with fringed pleated maxi skirt

Rustic handwoven-looking check is treated with couture technique: smocked into a body-skimming top with a frayed ruff collar, then pleated into a skirt that dissolves into long fringe. The fraying feels deliberately artisanal rather than undone.

Chocolate brown 72%Tan 28%
Shape
A-line · high-rise · fitted · relaxed
Pieces
maxi skirt · top (unspecified)
Fabric
fringe · wool · fringed · jacquard
Details
cut-away · fringe · pleats · raw
Styling
clogs · matching set · tonal head to toe
Mood
nostalgic · serene · whimsical

What set Stem apart

Over-represented in this house's looks compared with the rest of the season.

Clogs footwearGraphic eyeliner makeupColour on lids makeupBleached / bare brows makeupBouclé / nubby surfaceFringe material

The palette

Share of garment area across 12 looks, measured from the clothes (skin and set excluded).

Silhouettes

  • Asymmetric50%
  • A-line33%
  • Column33%
  • Straight / tubular33%
  • High-rise25%

Share of the 12 tagged looks.

What the collection was made of

Share of the 12 looks described by our AI tagger
  • Dress42%
  • Top (unspecified)25%
  • Maxi skirt25%
  • Jacket17%
  • Skirt8%

Traditions in the collection

Cultural influences →

1 of Stem's 28 looks draw on a specific dress or craft tradition, as read from the photographs. The house is based in Denmark (inferred from the fashion week it shows at).

  • Tartan / kilt · Scotland · European folk & regional dressLook 4

    Denmark → Scotland

    “Wrap-front skirt with flat overlapping apron panel fastened by oversized kilt-style pins at its edge, pleated body; ankle-length and plain navy rather than tartan.”

The character of the clothes

Stem's clothes were warmer, more textured, more casual, more daring and more experimental than most of the season.

  • DarkerLighter
  • MutedVivid
  • CoolerWarmerwarmer than 75% of collections
  • SmoothTextured & printedmore textured than 95% of collections
  • CasualFormalmore casual than 75% of collections
  • ClassicDaringmore daring than 77% of collections
  • ExperimentalWearablemore experimental than 84% of collections

Stem against every other house measured so far

Also in Copenhagen, Fall/Winter 2026

Copenhagen field notes →
  1. 1Gestuz37 looksCharcoal
  2. 2Nicklas Skovgaard35 looksBlack
  3. 3Henrik Vibskov33 looksNavy
  4. 4OpéraSport32 looksBlack
  5. 5Baum und Pferdgarten31 looksBlack
  6. 6MKDT Studio31 looksBlack

The fortnightly digest

Stem, in context

Every house is measured against every other, across every fashion week. The fortnightly digest sends you what moved, and who moved it.