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← The Designers

Founder and chief creative officer, Thom Browne

Thom Browne

American, born 1965

Thom Browne studied economics at the University of Notre Dame and briefly pursued acting before working in retail and design at Club Monaco. He started his label in 2001 with a small range of shrunken grey suits and later added womenswear. He is known for theatrical shows and his grey-suit uniform, and chaired the CFDA from 2023.

Houses

Their runway, measured

124 looks in 3 shows

Next to every runway we track, Thom Browne's looks are more muted, more neutral, cooler and more textured.

Colours

Share of garment area across their looks; × is against every runway.

Colour and surface

  • Lightness42/100about average · all runways 39/100
  • Colour saturation8.8more muted · all runways 12.6
  • Neutrals79%more neutral · all runways 60%
  • Warm hues34%cooler · all runways 70%
  • Tonal looks32%about average · all runways 33%
  • Colour-blockingΔE 36about average · all runways ΔE 35
  • Surface texture7.28more textured · all runways 5.06
  • Sheen0.069about average · all runways 0.065

What sets them apart

Shapes, fabrics and details they use far more often than other designers.

Pleated skirt 34.3×Mary janes 15.9×Cable knit 15.0×Preppy 12.1×Waistcoat / vest 9.2×Stripes 9.0×1920s 8.1×Tweed / boucle 7.1×

Silhouettes

  • Straight / tubular 67%1.7×
  • Oversized 30%
  • Tiered / layered volume 27%4.0×
  • Column 24%
  • Boxy 12%

Materials

  • Cotton / poplin 77%2.4×
  • Wool / tailoring cloth 73%2.4×
  • Knit 54%2.8×
  • Tweed / boucle 20%7.1×
  • Silk / satin 19%

Details

  • Pleats 52%3.3×
  • Piping / contrast stitching 30%1.9×
  • Lacing / ties 27%1.6×
  • Appliques / 3D flowers 20%3.3×
  • Patchwork 19%3.4×

Patterns

  • Stripes 64%9.0×
  • Check / plaid 37%6.8×
  • Pinstripe 18%5.5×
  • Patchwork print 10%5.1×
  • Colour-block 7%1.3×

Mood

  • Playful 63%3.6×
  • Subversive 48%4.3×
  • Whimsical 40%4.4×
  • Nostalgic 35%2.4×
  • Austere 26%1.3×

Era references

  • 1920s 10%8.1×
  • 1960s 10%3.3×
  • Edwardian 3%10.8×
  • 1950s 2%34% less
  • 1940s 1%37% less

From the AI tags on 124 of their looks. A designer is credited with a house's shows while they lead it; ×: how much more often than across all 25,892 measured looks.

Opening looks

The first looks of each collection

Collections