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← The Designers

Founder and designer, Yohji Yamamoto

Yohji Yamamoto

Japanese, born 1943

Yohji Yamamoto studied law at Keio University and then fashion at Bunka Fashion College in Tokyo, founding his company in 1972 and first showing in Paris in 1981. He is known for oversized, asymmetric black clothing that challenged Western tailoring, and he also designs Y-3 with adidas. He still leads the label's Paris shows in his eighties.

Houses

Their runway, measured

126 looks in 3 shows

Next to every runway we track, Yohji Yamamoto's looks are darker, more muted, more neutral and more tonal.

Colours

Share of garment area across their looks; × is against every runway.

Colour and surface

  • Lightness19/100darker · all runways 39/100
  • Colour saturation3.9more muted · all runways 12.6
  • Neutrals95%more neutral · all runways 60%
  • Warm hues72%about average · all runways 70%
  • Tonal looks65%more tonal · all runways 33%
  • Colour-blockingΔE 15less colour-blocked · all runways ΔE 35
  • Surface texture3.91smoother · all runways 5.06
  • Sheen0.080shinier · all runways 0.065

What sets them apart

Shapes, fabrics and details they use far more often than other designers.

Kimono-inspired 47.8×Abstract stripe / brushstroke 10.8×Gothic / dark 9.1×Combat boots 7.7×Dark 7.4×Deconstructed 7.4×Exposed seams / deconstruction 6.3×Draped 5.6×

Silhouettes

  • Draped 67%5.6×
  • Oversized 67%2.4×
  • Asymmetric 63%4.0×
  • Column 31%1.5×
  • Straight / tubular 21%48% less

Materials

  • Wool / tailoring cloth 49%1.6×
  • Fringe 30%5.6×
  • Silk / satin 28%
  • Cotton / poplin 26%
  • Knit 25%

Details

  • Draping 64%4.7×
  • Cut-away / asymmetric hem 60%3.9×
  • Raw / frayed hems 50%5.1×
  • Knots / twists 39%5.0×
  • Fringe 36%4.1×

Patterns

  • Abstract print 22%4.7×
  • Abstract stripe / brushstroke 19%10.8×
  • Pinstripe 8%2.4×
  • Floral 7%
  • Stripes 6%

Mood

  • Dark 97%7.4×
  • Dramatic 62%4.6×
  • Austere 61%3.2×
  • Romantic 33%2.0×
  • Edgy 18%

Era references

  • Victorian 6%1.8×
  • 1990s 1%89% less
  • 1980s 1%86% less

From the AI tags on 126 of their looks. A designer is credited with a house's shows while they lead it; ×: how much more often than across all 25,892 measured looks.

Opening looks

The first looks of each collection

Collections