Press

WWDMonica Barbaro Contrasts in Plunging Black and White Brandon Maxwell Gown for GQ’s Men of the Year Party FashionistaICYMI: Hanifa's Relaunch, Nuuly Is 'Spring Awakening''s Styling Partner & Amber Valletta and Teddy Charles on Their New Hair-Care Brand FashionUnitedMr Marvis surpasses 25-store target and eyes new European markets Field NotesMilan: 25,612 looks from 549 houses, now on the map WWDCamila Cabello Embellishes Paris Texas’ Lidia Mules with Rosary Anklet at the 27th Annual Latin Grammy Awards FashionistaESP Showroom Is Hiring A Wholesale Fashion Showroom & Sales Coordinator In New York, NY (Hybrid)FashionUnitedWho is David Epstein, Hugo Boss’s next CEO?Field NotesParis: 11,161 looks from 267 houses, now on the map WWDFlorence Pugh Wears Gothic Mourning Dress with Vivienne Westwood Pumps at an East of Eden FYC Event in Los Angeles Fashionista'Angels Among Us' Winner Solange Omon Shares Advice for Aspiring Models FashionUnitedRimowa and Maison Margiela release limited-edition travel set Field NotesNew York: 2,080 looks from 49 houses, now on the map WWDAlexander Skarsgård Glistens In Liquid Satin COS Men’s Shirt with Dusty Pink Cummerbund FashionistaMust Read: Smart Glasses Launch Reopens Debate Over Privacy, How Fashion Helped Protect Great Bear Rainforest FashionUnitedMade in France: Mélenchon wants to revive French textile industry Field NotesTokyo: 1,743 looks from 54 houses, now on the map WWDDrake’s Nocta Brand Will Debut a New Nike Technology on Its Next Sneaker Release FashionistaHow This Former Teacher Built a Business Selling and Archiving Vintage Luxury Fashion FashionUnitedBrand Radar: Kardo - the Indian brand turning artisanal textiles into modern menswear Field NotesCopenhagen: 1,455 looks from 51 houses, now on the map Field NotesLagos: 1,409 looks from 50 houses, now on the map Field NotesLondon: 1,164 looks from 33 houses, now on the map Field NotesBerlin: 985 looks from 41 houses, now on the map Field NotesSão Paulo: 287 looks from 8 houses, now on the map Field NotesMexico City: 267 looks from 9 houses, now on the map Field NotesFlorence: 137 looks from 3 houses, now on the map Field NotesMadrid: 131 looks from 3 houses, now on the map Field NotesSydney: 127 looks from 4 houses, now on the map Field NotesSeoul: 37 looks from 1 houses, now on the map

WWDMonica Barbaro Contrasts in Plunging Black and White Brandon Maxwell Gown for GQ’s Men of the Year Party FashionistaICYMI: Hanifa's Relaunch, Nuuly Is 'Spring Awakening''s Styling Partner & Amber Valletta and Teddy Charles on Their New Hair-Care Brand FashionUnitedMr Marvis surpasses 25-store target and eyes new European markets Field NotesMilan: 25,612 looks from 549 houses, now on the map WWDCamila Cabello Embellishes Paris Texas’ Lidia Mules with Rosary Anklet at the 27th Annual Latin Grammy Awards FashionistaESP Showroom Is Hiring A Wholesale Fashion Showroom & Sales Coordinator In New York, NY (Hybrid)FashionUnitedWho is David Epstein, Hugo Boss’s next CEO?Field NotesParis: 11,161 looks from 267 houses, now on the map WWDFlorence Pugh Wears Gothic Mourning Dress with Vivienne Westwood Pumps at an East of Eden FYC Event in Los Angeles Fashionista'Angels Among Us' Winner Solange Omon Shares Advice for Aspiring Models FashionUnitedRimowa and Maison Margiela release limited-edition travel set Field NotesNew York: 2,080 looks from 49 houses, now on the map WWDAlexander Skarsgård Glistens In Liquid Satin COS Men’s Shirt with Dusty Pink Cummerbund FashionistaMust Read: Smart Glasses Launch Reopens Debate Over Privacy, How Fashion Helped Protect Great Bear Rainforest FashionUnitedMade in France: Mélenchon wants to revive French textile industry Field NotesTokyo: 1,743 looks from 54 houses, now on the map WWDDrake’s Nocta Brand Will Debut a New Nike Technology on Its Next Sneaker Release FashionistaHow This Former Teacher Built a Business Selling and Archiving Vintage Luxury Fashion FashionUnitedBrand Radar: Kardo - the Indian brand turning artisanal textiles into modern menswear Field NotesCopenhagen: 1,455 looks from 51 houses, now on the map Field NotesLagos: 1,409 looks from 50 houses, now on the map Field NotesLondon: 1,164 looks from 33 houses, now on the map Field NotesBerlin: 985 looks from 41 houses, now on the map Field NotesSão Paulo: 287 looks from 8 houses, now on the map Field NotesMexico City: 267 looks from 9 houses, now on the map Field NotesFlorence: 137 looks from 3 houses, now on the map Field NotesMadrid: 131 looks from 3 houses, now on the map Field NotesSydney: 127 looks from 4 houses, now on the map Field NotesSeoul: 37 looks from 1 houses, now on the map

← The Designers

Founder and creative director, Des_Phemmes

Salvo Rizza

Italian

Salvo Rizza graduated in fashion design from Istituto Marangoni in Milan in 2011 and then joined Giambattista Valli in Paris. He founded the Milan label Des_Phemmes in 2019 and is its creative director. The brand is known for embellished womenswear and shows in Milan; it entered an acquisition agreement with Olmar and Mirta in 2023.

Houses

Founder and creative director
Des_Phemmes
Since 2019 · about 7 years

Their runway, measured

43 looks in 2 shows

Next to every runway we track, Salvo Rizza's looks are lighter, more muted, more neutral and more tonal.

Colours

Black22%
White · 4.3× the average21%
Grey · 2.2× the average13%
Charcoal10%
Silver7%
Ivory / cream6%
Navy4%
Tan2%

Share of garment area across their looks; × is against every runway.

Colour and surface

Lightness49/100lighter · all runways 39/100
Colour saturation6.7more muted · all runways 12.6
Neutrals84%more neutral · all runways 60%
Warm hues67%about average · all runways 70%
Tonal looks37%more tonal · all runways 33%
Colour-blockingΔE 37about average · all runways ΔE 35
Surface texture5.68more textured · all runways 5.06
Sheen0.100shinier · all runways 0.065

What sets them apart

Shapes, fabrics and details they use far more often than other designers.

Embossed / croc 17.8×Feathers 15.6×Feathered 11.3×Skirt 6.7×Bra top 6.3×Sequins / paillettes 5.5×Beading / crystals 5.1×

Silhouettes

Straight / tubular 47%
Column 35%1.7×
High-rise 19%
Fitted / bodycon 19%1.9×
Oversized 19%35% less

Materials

Silk / satin 42%1.8×
Chiffon / organza / tulle 37%2.9×
Sequins / paillettes 35%5.5×
Cotton / poplin 33%
Leather 28%2.8×

Details

Beading / crystals 60%5.1×
Feathers 33%13.0×
Belts 33%1.7×
Lacing / ties 33%2.0×
Hardware / studs / chains 19%1.4×

Patterns

Stripes 12%1.6×
Abstract print 9%1.9×
Tie-dye 9%13.8×
Geometric 5%1.3×
Floral 5%45% less

Mood

Elegant 40%
Romantic 35%2.2×
Sensual 33%3.0×
Dark 33%2.5×
Edgy 28%1.8×

Era references

1990s 16%2.2×
1920s 9%7.2×
1980s 9%1.6×
1970s 9%
1960s 2%

From the AI tags on 43 of their looks. A designer is credited with a house's shows while they lead it; ×: how much more often than across all 25,892 measured looks.

Opening looks

The first looks of each collection

Collections

Des_Phemmes Spring/Summer 2027 — Des_PhemmesSpring/Summer 2027 · Milan · 16 looks

Des_Phemmes Fall/Winter 2026 — Des_PhemmesFall/Winter 2026 · Milan · 27 looks