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Milan Fashion Week SS27 · Runway show Womenswear

Des_phemmes

16 looks, shown 24 September 2026 in Milan. Known this season for feathers, feathers, feathered.

16Looks
0.7%Of the week's looks
45th / 52Largest show
GreyLead colour

The collection, look by look

MILANO MODA DONNA - 22/28 SETTEMBRE 2026 · SS27

Every look in runway order as a column of the colours measured from its garments. Hover or use the arrow keys to read each one; play to walk the show.

Look 1Look 16
GreyIvoryWhiteNavyCharcoalBurgundyButter yellowSilver
Look 11

Look 1 of 16

Sheer white ribbed cardigan, bandeau and gold tweed shorts over organza skirt

Couture-coded gold tweed is cut into frayed shorts and veiled beneath a crinkled sheer organza skirt, a lingerie-like layering that turns heritage fabric into something fragile and undone.

Grey 42%Chocolate brown 22%Tan 15%White 11%Beige 10%
Shape
fitted · straight · fitted · relaxed
Pieces
bra top · cardigan · midi skirt · tailored shorts
Fabric
chiffon · cotton · knit · metallic
Details
gathering · lacing · raw · slits
Styling
layered · open · underwear as outerwear
Mood
romantic · sensual · serene

What set Des_phemmes apart

Over-represented in this house's looks compared with the rest of the season.

Feathers materialFeathers detailFeathered surfaceSequins / paillettes materialSequinned / beaded surfaceUnderwear as outerwear styling

The palette

Share of garment area across 16 looks, measured from the clothes (skin and set excluded).

Silhouettes

  • Straight / tubular56%
  • Column38%
  • Fitted / bodycon31%
  • High-rise25%
  • Asymmetric19%

Share of the 16 tagged looks.

What the collection was made of

Share of the 16 looks described by our AI tagger
  • Skirt31%
  • Top (unspecified)31%
  • Slip dress25%
  • Bra top25%
  • Trousers19%

The character of the clothes

Des_phemmes's clothes were lighter, more muted, more textured, more formal, more daring and more experimental than most of the season.

  • DarkerLighterlighter than 89% of collections
  • MutedVividmore muted than 77% of collections
  • CoolerWarmer
  • SmoothTextured & printedmore textured than 80% of collections
  • CasualFormalmore formal than 75% of collections
  • ClassicDaringmore daring than 76% of collections
  • ExperimentalWearablemore experimental than 78% of collections

Des_phemmes against every other house measured so far

Also in Milan, Spring/Summer 2027

Milan field notes →

The fortnightly digest

Des_phemmes, in context

Every house is measured against every other, across every fashion week. The fortnightly digest sends you what moved, and who moved it.