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Fashion Field Notes
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Tokyo Fashion Week FW26 · Runway show Co-ed

Ancellm

41 looks, shown 16 March 2026 in Tokyo. Known this season for grunge-luxe, distressed / worn, distressing.

41Looks
3.9%Of the week's looks
8th / 30Largest show
CharcoalLead colour

The show

The collection, look by look

AW26 · FW26

Every look in runway order as a column of the colours measured from its garments. Hover or use the arrow keys to read each one; play to walk the show.

Look 1Look 41
CharcoalBlackIvoryWhiteGreyBeigePinkRed
Look 11

Look 1 of 41

Burnished oxblood leather jacket over brown wool trousers with beaded cord

A hand-rubbed oxblood leather jacket with stand collar and long beaded drawcord gives heritage outerwear a worn, personal patina, grounded by fluid brown wool trousers.

Charcoal 62%Black 21%Grey 17%
Shape
boxy · straight · relaxed
Pieces
knit sweater · leather jacket · shirt · trousers
Fabric
knit · leather · silk · wool
Details
beading · lacing · piping · pleats
Styling
loafers · collar popped · layered
Mood
dark · nostalgic · relaxed

What set Ancellm apart

Over-represented in this house's looks compared with the rest of the season.

Grunge-luxe styleDistressed / worn finishDistressing detailWashed / faded finishEarth tones colour_storyDropped shoulder sleeve

The palette

Share of garment area across 41 looks, measured from the clothes (skin and set excluded).

Silhouettes

  • Oversized95%
  • Boxy37%
  • Straight / tubular34%
  • Inverted triangle / strong shoulder24%
  • Tiered / layered volume17%

Share of the 41 tagged looks.

What the collection was made of

Share of the 41 looks described by our AI tagger
  • Wide-leg trousers61%
  • Shirt51%
  • Jacket29%
  • T-shirt29%
  • Knit sweater24%

Traditions in the collection

Cultural influences →

1 of Ancellm's 41 looks draw on a specific dress or craft tradition, as read from the photographs. The house is based in Japan (inferred from the fashion week it shows at).

  • Baja / jerga hoodie · Mexico · Latin America & CaribbeanLook 18

    Japan → Mexico

    “Coarse woven pullover with fine contrasting horizontal stripes, V-neck hood and kangaroo pocket, the Mexican jerga 'baja' hoodie form, reworked oversized in burgundy with raw edges.”

The character of the clothes

Ancellm's clothes were more casual, more classic and more wearable than most of the season.

  • DarkerLighter
  • MutedVivid
  • CoolerWarmer
  • SmoothTextured & printed
  • CasualFormalmore casual than 91% of collections
  • ClassicDaringmore classic than 77% of collections
  • ExperimentalWearablemore wearable than 75% of collections

Ancellm against every other house measured so far

Also in Tokyo, Fall/Winter 2026

Tokyo field notes →
  1. 1Agnes B.53 looksBlack
  2. 2Yueqi QI52 looksDenim blue
  3. 3Tae Ashida50 looksBlack
  4. 4Tanaka48 looksCharcoal
  5. 5support surface46 looksBlack
  6. 6Enföld44 looksBlack

The fortnightly digest

Ancellm, in context

Every house is measured against every other, across every fashion week. The fortnightly digest sends you what moved, and who moved it.