Press

WWDMonica Barbaro Contrasts in Plunging Black and White Brandon Maxwell Gown for GQ’s Men of the Year Party FashionistaICYMI: Hanifa's Relaunch, Nuuly Is 'Spring Awakening''s Styling Partner & Amber Valletta and Teddy Charles on Their New Hair-Care Brand FashionUnitedMr Marvis surpasses 25-store target and eyes new European markets Field NotesMilan: 25,612 looks from 549 houses, now on the map WWDCamila Cabello Embellishes Paris Texas’ Lidia Mules with Rosary Anklet at the 27th Annual Latin Grammy Awards FashionistaESP Showroom Is Hiring A Wholesale Fashion Showroom & Sales Coordinator In New York, NY (Hybrid)FashionUnitedWho is David Epstein, Hugo Boss’s next CEO?Field NotesParis: 11,161 looks from 267 houses, now on the map WWDFlorence Pugh Wears Gothic Mourning Dress with Vivienne Westwood Pumps at an East of Eden FYC Event in Los Angeles Fashionista'Angels Among Us' Winner Solange Omon Shares Advice for Aspiring Models FashionUnitedRimowa and Maison Margiela release limited-edition travel set Field NotesNew York: 2,080 looks from 49 houses, now on the map WWDAlexander Skarsgård Glistens In Liquid Satin COS Men’s Shirt with Dusty Pink Cummerbund FashionistaMust Read: Smart Glasses Launch Reopens Debate Over Privacy, How Fashion Helped Protect Great Bear Rainforest FashionUnitedMade in France: Mélenchon wants to revive French textile industry Field NotesTokyo: 1,743 looks from 54 houses, now on the map WWDDrake’s Nocta Brand Will Debut a New Nike Technology on Its Next Sneaker Release FashionistaHow This Former Teacher Built a Business Selling and Archiving Vintage Luxury Fashion FashionUnitedBrand Radar: Kardo - the Indian brand turning artisanal textiles into modern menswear Field NotesCopenhagen: 1,455 looks from 51 houses, now on the map Field NotesLagos: 1,409 looks from 50 houses, now on the map Field NotesLondon: 1,164 looks from 33 houses, now on the map Field NotesBerlin: 985 looks from 41 houses, now on the map Field NotesSão Paulo: 287 looks from 8 houses, now on the map Field NotesMexico City: 267 looks from 9 houses, now on the map Field NotesFlorence: 137 looks from 3 houses, now on the map Field NotesMadrid: 131 looks from 3 houses, now on the map Field NotesSydney: 127 looks from 4 houses, now on the map Field NotesSeoul: 37 looks from 1 houses, now on the map

WWDMonica Barbaro Contrasts in Plunging Black and White Brandon Maxwell Gown for GQ’s Men of the Year Party FashionistaICYMI: Hanifa's Relaunch, Nuuly Is 'Spring Awakening''s Styling Partner & Amber Valletta and Teddy Charles on Their New Hair-Care Brand FashionUnitedMr Marvis surpasses 25-store target and eyes new European markets Field NotesMilan: 25,612 looks from 549 houses, now on the map WWDCamila Cabello Embellishes Paris Texas’ Lidia Mules with Rosary Anklet at the 27th Annual Latin Grammy Awards FashionistaESP Showroom Is Hiring A Wholesale Fashion Showroom & Sales Coordinator In New York, NY (Hybrid)FashionUnitedWho is David Epstein, Hugo Boss’s next CEO?Field NotesParis: 11,161 looks from 267 houses, now on the map WWDFlorence Pugh Wears Gothic Mourning Dress with Vivienne Westwood Pumps at an East of Eden FYC Event in Los Angeles Fashionista'Angels Among Us' Winner Solange Omon Shares Advice for Aspiring Models FashionUnitedRimowa and Maison Margiela release limited-edition travel set Field NotesNew York: 2,080 looks from 49 houses, now on the map WWDAlexander Skarsgård Glistens In Liquid Satin COS Men’s Shirt with Dusty Pink Cummerbund FashionistaMust Read: Smart Glasses Launch Reopens Debate Over Privacy, How Fashion Helped Protect Great Bear Rainforest FashionUnitedMade in France: Mélenchon wants to revive French textile industry Field NotesTokyo: 1,743 looks from 54 houses, now on the map WWDDrake’s Nocta Brand Will Debut a New Nike Technology on Its Next Sneaker Release FashionistaHow This Former Teacher Built a Business Selling and Archiving Vintage Luxury Fashion FashionUnitedBrand Radar: Kardo - the Indian brand turning artisanal textiles into modern menswear Field NotesCopenhagen: 1,455 looks from 51 houses, now on the map Field NotesLagos: 1,409 looks from 50 houses, now on the map Field NotesLondon: 1,164 looks from 33 houses, now on the map Field NotesBerlin: 985 looks from 41 houses, now on the map Field NotesSão Paulo: 287 looks from 8 houses, now on the map Field NotesMexico City: 267 looks from 9 houses, now on the map Field NotesFlorence: 137 looks from 3 houses, now on the map Field NotesMadrid: 131 looks from 3 houses, now on the map Field NotesSydney: 127 looks from 4 houses, now on the map Field NotesSeoul: 37 looks from 1 houses, now on the map

← The Designers

Founder and creative director, Ulla Johnson

Ulla Johnson

American

Designer born and raised in Manhattan who started her label in 1998, shortly after university, where she studied psychology. Early support from Barneys New York helped the brand grow from a few New York boutiques to international stockists. The label is known for custom prints, embroidery and handcraft in womenswear and shows at New York Fashion Week.

Houses

Founder and creative director
Ulla Johnson
Since 1998 · about 28 years

Their runway, measured

57 looks in 2 shows

Next to every runway we track, Ulla Johnson's looks are more saturated, less neutral, warmer and more textured.

Colours

Black15%
Charcoal11%
Beige / camel · 1.7× the average9%
Tan · 2.2× the average9%
Chocolate brown8%
Khaki / olive · 3.2× the average7%
Ivory / cream6%
Pink · 2.4× the average5%

Share of garment area across their looks; × is against every runway.

Colour and surface

Lightness40/100about average · all runways 39/100
Colour saturation16.6more saturated · all runways 12.6
Neutrals38%less neutral · all runways 60%
Warm hues80%warmer · all runways 70%
Tonal looks33%about average · all runways 33%
Colour-blockingΔE 35about average · all runways ΔE 35
Surface texture8.69more textured · all runways 5.06
Sheen0.066about average · all runways 0.065

What sets them apart

Shapes, fabrics and details they use far more often than other designers.

Boho-luxe 8.5×Bra top 5.6×Mini skirt 5.2×Jacquard / brocade 5.0×Metallic / lame 4.8×1970s 4.7×70s 4.7×Ballet flats 4.3×

Silhouettes

Inverted triangle / strong shoulder 30%1.6×
Straight / tubular 30%
High-rise 28%1.5×
Oversized 28%
Column 26%1.3×

Materials

Silk / satin 39%1.6×
Knit 35%1.8×
Wool / tailoring cloth 23%
Lace 19%2.8×
Jacquard / brocade 18%5.0×

Details

Lacing / ties 32%1.9×
Fringe 32%3.6×
Gathering 30%2.1×
Ruffles 25%3.3×
Pleats 23%1.4×

Patterns

Floral 18%2.1×
Stripes 11%1.5×
Colour-block 9%1.6×
Geometric 5%1.5×
Animal print 4%2.1×

Mood

Elegant 61%1.4×
Romantic 53%3.3×
Relaxed 30%
Playful 28%1.6×
Serene 19%

Era references

1970s 53%4.7×
1980s 7%
1990s 5%
1950s 5%2.1×
Victorian 4%

From the AI tags on 57 of their looks. A designer is credited with a house's shows while they lead it; ×: how much more often than across all 25,892 measured looks.

Opening looks

The first looks of each collection

Collections

Ulla Johnson Spring/Summer 2027 — Ulla JohnsonSpring/Summer 2027 · New York · 47 looks

Ulla Johnson Fall/Winter 2026 — Ulla JohnsonFall/Winter 2026 · New York · 57 looks