Founder and designer, Aelis
Sofia Crociani
Italian
Crociani, who previously worked with Karl Lagerfeld, founded the Paris couture house Aelis in 2017. She describes her approach as art-to-wear couture built on upcycling, including collections made from vintage costumes of the Paris Opera Ballet. Aelis has been on the official Haute Couture Week calendar since 2019.
Houses
Their runway, measured
26 looks in 2 showsNext to every runway we track, Sofia Crociani's looks are lighter, more muted, more neutral and warmer.
Colours
- White · 5.7× the average28%
- Ivory / cream · 4.0× the average22%
- Silver · 2.0× the average11%
- Beige / camel · 1.8× the average9%
- Grey · 1.5× the average9%
- Black7%
- Charcoal5%
- Tan4%
Share of garment area across their looks; × is against every runway.
Colour and surface
- Lightness66/100lighter · all runways 39/100
- Colour saturation7.1more muted · all runways 12.6
- Neutrals75%more neutral · all runways 60%
- Warm hues91%warmer · all runways 70%
- Tonal looks42%more tonal · all runways 33%
- Colour-blockingΔE 18less colour-blocked · all runways ΔE 35
- Surface texture3.45smoother · all runways 5.06
- Sheen0.015more matte · all runways 0.065
What sets them apart
Shapes, fabrics and details they use far more often than other designers, with a glimpse of the looks: one from each collection that wore it most.
- Taffeta10.5×Material
- Gown7.0×Garment
- Ruching6.0×Detail
- Draped5.4×Silhouette
- Cape back / train5.1×Detail
- Romantic4.6×Mood
- Draping4.5×Detail
- Crumpled / creased4.0×Surface
Silhouettes
- Draped 65%5.4×
- Column 62%3.1×
- Asymmetric 38%2.4×
- Straight / tubular 23%42% less
- Sculptural / architectural 15%1.5×
Materials
- Chiffon / organza / tulle 50%3.9×
- Silk / satin 42%1.8×
- Lace 23%3.3×
- Taffeta 19%10.5×
- Metallic / lame 15%4.2×
Details
- Draping 62%4.5×
- Gathering 46%3.2×
- Cut-away / asymmetric hem 38%2.5×
- Ruching 31%6.0×
- Knots / twists 31%3.9×
Patterns
- Floral 15%1.8×
- Geometric 4%
- Abstract print 4%
- Pinstripe 4%
- Colour-block 4%31% less
Mood
- Serene 73%3.5×
- Romantic 73%4.6×
- Elegant 65%1.5×
- Dramatic 15%
- Relaxed 15%55% less
Era references
- Edwardian 8%25.7×
- 1920s 8%6.0×
- 1960s 4%1.3×
- 1990s 4%48% less
- 1930s 4%3.2×
From the AI tags on 26 of their looks. A designer is credited with a house's shows while they lead it; ×: how much more often than across all 25,892 measured looks.
