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← The Designers

Founder and designer, COMME des GARÇONS HOMME PLUS · Founder and designer, Comme des Garçons

Rei Kawakubo

Japanese, born 1942

Tokyo-born designer who studied fine arts at Keio University and worked in advertising and as a stylist before founding Comme des Garçons in 1969. Her 1981 Paris debut challenged Western ideas of form, and she has designed the experimental Homme Plus menswear line since its launch, alongside co-founding Dover Street Market.

Houses

Their runway, measured

138 looks in 6 shows at 2 houses

Next to every runway we track, Rei Kawakubo's looks are more neutral, cooler, less tonal and shinier.

Colours

Share of garment area across their looks; × is against every runway.

Colour and surface

  • Lightness35/100about average · all runways 39/100
  • Colour saturation11.5about average · all runways 12.6
  • Neutrals69%more neutral · all runways 60%
  • Warm hues45%cooler · all runways 70%
  • Tonal looks27%less tonal · all runways 33%
  • Colour-blockingΔE 36about average · all runways ΔE 35
  • Surface texture5.59about average · all runways 5.06
  • Sheen0.089shinier · all runways 0.065

What sets them apart

Shapes, fabrics and details they use far more often than other designers.

Platforms 8.3×Subversive 7.5×Quilted / padded 6.7×Derbies / oxfords 6.0×Deconstructed 5.7×Whimsical 5.3×Balloon / bubble 5.2×Exposed seams / deconstruction 5.1×

Silhouettes

  • Oversized 51%1.8×
  • Sculptural / architectural 46%4.6×
  • Asymmetric 43%2.7×
  • Balloon / bubble 30%5.2×
  • Tiered / layered volume 28%4.2×

Materials

  • Cotton / poplin 43%1.4×
  • Wool / tailoring cloth 43%1.4×
  • Silk / satin 30%
  • Chiffon / organza / tulle 14%
  • Jersey 11%

Details

  • Padding / sculpted volume 54%3.8×
  • Cut-away / asymmetric hem 36%2.4×
  • Gathering 31%2.2×
  • Raw / frayed hems 27%2.8×
  • Exposed seams / deconstruction 26%5.1×

Patterns

  • Stripes 9%1.3×
  • Colour-block 9%1.7×
  • Text / slogan 7%6.0×
  • Abstract print 7%1.4×
  • Camouflage 4%17.4×

Mood

  • Subversive 85%7.5×
  • Dramatic 61%4.6×
  • Dark 49%3.8×
  • Whimsical 49%5.3×
  • Playful 30%1.7×

Era references

  • Victorian 8%2.6×
  • 1960s 1%75% less
  • Futuristic 1%
  • 1990s 1%90% less

From the AI tags on 138 of their looks. A designer is credited with a house's shows while they lead it; ×: how much more often than across all 25,892 measured looks.

Opening looks

The first looks of each collection

Collections