Founder and creative director, Officine Générale
Pierre Mahéo
French
French designer who founded Officine Générale in Paris's Saint-Germain-des-Prés in 2012. Largely self-taught, he began as a tailor's assistant and worked for larger fashion houses before launching his own label. The brand is known for relaxed, soft-shouldered tailoring and fabric selection. In 2021 it raised investment from The Untitled Group, and it shows in Paris.
Houses
Their runway, measured
69 looks in 2 showsNext to every runway we track, Pierre Mahéo's looks are darker, more muted, more neutral and cooler.
Colours
- Charcoal · 2.2× the average28%
- Navy · 4.7× the average20%
- Black13%
- Silver · 1.8× the average10%
- Grey7%
- Denim blue · 1.9× the average5%
- White5%
- Lilac / lavender · 7.1× the average4%
Share of garment area across their looks; × is against every runway.
Colour and surface
- Lightness35/100darker · all runways 39/100
- Colour saturation7.6more muted · all runways 12.6
- Neutrals76%more neutral · all runways 60%
- Warm hues24%cooler · all runways 70%
- Tonal looks51%more tonal · all runways 33%
- Colour-blockingΔE 21less colour-blocked · all runways ΔE 35
- Surface texture2.79smoother · all runways 5.06
- Sheen0.033more matte · all runways 0.065
What sets them apart
Shapes, fabrics and details they use far more often than other designers.
Silhouettes
- Straight / tubular 65%1.6×
- Oversized 59%2.1×
- High-rise 59%3.2×
- Boxy 22%1.8×
- Inverted triangle / strong shoulder 19%
Materials
- Wool / tailoring cloth 64%2.1×
- Cotton / poplin 46%1.5×
- Jersey 29%1.9×
- Knit 20%
- Silk / satin 19%
Details
- Pleats 55%3.4×
- Utility pockets 28%2.0×
- Belts 20%
- Shoulder emphasis 20%
- Draping 17%
Patterns
- Check / plaid 14%2.6×
- Pinstripe 4%1.3×
- Stripes 4%39% less
- Houndstooth 4%4.0×
- Polka dot 3%2.2×
Mood
- Relaxed 86%2.5×
- Elegant 75%1.8×
- Serene 43%2.1×
- Austere 30%1.6×
- Nostalgic 16%
Era references
- 1970s 12%
- 1980s 7%
- 1940s 4%3.4×
- 1990s 3%61% less
- 1960s 1%50% less
From the AI tags on 69 of their looks. A designer is credited with a house's shows while they lead it; ×: how much more often than across all 25,892 measured looks.
For Publications
