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← The Designers

Chief creative officer, Fendi

Maria Grazia Chiuri

Italian, born 1964

Roman designer who studied at the Istituto Europeo di Design and began her career in Fendi's accessories team in the late 1980s and 1990s. She spent 17 years at Valentino, latterly as co-creative director with Pierpaolo Piccioli, then led Dior womenswear from 2016 to 2025, known for feminist messaging and craft collaborations.

Houses

Their runway, measured

152 looks in 2 shows

Next to every runway we track, Maria Grazia Chiuri's looks are darker, more muted, more neutral and warmer.

Colours

Share of garment area across their looks; × is against every runway.

Colour and surface

  • Lightness25/100darker · all runways 39/100
  • Colour saturation6.2more muted · all runways 12.6
  • Neutrals81%more neutral · all runways 60%
  • Warm hues93%warmer · all runways 70%
  • Tonal looks66%more tonal · all runways 33%
  • Colour-blockingΔE 18less colour-blocked · all runways ΔE 35
  • Surface texture3.21smoother · all runways 5.06
  • Sheen0.052more matte · all runways 0.065

What sets them apart

Shapes, fabrics and details they use far more often than other designers.

Faux fur / shearling 7.7×Slip dress 6.7×Bra top 6.3×Platforms 6.1×Grunge-luxe 5.1×Sensual 4.4×Lace 4.0×1990s 3.6×

Silhouettes

  • Straight / tubular 72%1.8×
  • Column 39%2.0×
  • Oversized 25%
  • Draped 17%1.4×
  • Inverted triangle / strong shoulder 16%

Materials

  • Faux fur / shearling 38%7.7×
  • Wool / tailoring cloth 36%
  • Silk / satin 30%
  • Lace 28%4.0×
  • Cotton / poplin 26%

Details

  • Hardware / studs / chains 30%2.2×
  • Belts 26%1.3×
  • Lacing / ties 21%
  • Oversized collar 20%1.7×
  • Piping / contrast stitching 16%

Patterns

  • Floral 14%1.6×
  • Colour-block 6%
  • Animal print 5%3.2×
  • Abstract print 3%31% less
  • Geometric 3%

Mood

  • Elegant 51%
  • Sensual 49%4.4×
  • Edgy 45%2.9×
  • Dark 38%2.9×
  • Relaxed 26%

Era references

  • 1970s 35%3.1×
  • 1990s 27%3.6×
  • Victorian 5%1.7×
  • 1930s 3%2.2×
  • 2000s / y2k 1%34% less

From the AI tags on 152 of their looks. A designer is credited with a house's shows while they lead it; ×: how much more often than across all 25,892 measured looks.

Opening looks

The first looks of each collection

Collections