Press

WWDMonica Barbaro Contrasts in Plunging Black and White Brandon Maxwell Gown for GQ’s Men of the Year Party FashionistaICYMI: Hanifa's Relaunch, Nuuly Is 'Spring Awakening''s Styling Partner & Amber Valletta and Teddy Charles on Their New Hair-Care Brand FashionUnitedMr Marvis surpasses 25-store target and eyes new European markets Field NotesMilan: 25,612 looks from 549 houses, now on the map WWDCamila Cabello Embellishes Paris Texas’ Lidia Mules with Rosary Anklet at the 27th Annual Latin Grammy Awards FashionistaESP Showroom Is Hiring A Wholesale Fashion Showroom & Sales Coordinator In New York, NY (Hybrid)FashionUnitedWho is David Epstein, Hugo Boss’s next CEO?Field NotesParis: 11,161 looks from 267 houses, now on the map WWDFlorence Pugh Wears Gothic Mourning Dress with Vivienne Westwood Pumps at an East of Eden FYC Event in Los Angeles Fashionista'Angels Among Us' Winner Solange Omon Shares Advice for Aspiring Models FashionUnitedRimowa and Maison Margiela release limited-edition travel set Field NotesNew York: 2,080 looks from 49 houses, now on the map WWDAlexander Skarsgård Glistens In Liquid Satin COS Men’s Shirt with Dusty Pink Cummerbund FashionistaMust Read: Smart Glasses Launch Reopens Debate Over Privacy, How Fashion Helped Protect Great Bear Rainforest FashionUnitedMade in France: Mélenchon wants to revive French textile industry Field NotesTokyo: 1,743 looks from 54 houses, now on the map WWDDrake’s Nocta Brand Will Debut a New Nike Technology on Its Next Sneaker Release FashionistaHow This Former Teacher Built a Business Selling and Archiving Vintage Luxury Fashion FashionUnitedBrand Radar: Kardo - the Indian brand turning artisanal textiles into modern menswear Field NotesCopenhagen: 1,455 looks from 51 houses, now on the map Field NotesLagos: 1,409 looks from 50 houses, now on the map Field NotesLondon: 1,164 looks from 33 houses, now on the map Field NotesBerlin: 985 looks from 41 houses, now on the map Field NotesSão Paulo: 287 looks from 8 houses, now on the map Field NotesMexico City: 267 looks from 9 houses, now on the map Field NotesFlorence: 137 looks from 3 houses, now on the map Field NotesMadrid: 131 looks from 3 houses, now on the map Field NotesSydney: 127 looks from 4 houses, now on the map Field NotesSeoul: 37 looks from 1 houses, now on the map

WWDMonica Barbaro Contrasts in Plunging Black and White Brandon Maxwell Gown for GQ’s Men of the Year Party FashionistaICYMI: Hanifa's Relaunch, Nuuly Is 'Spring Awakening''s Styling Partner & Amber Valletta and Teddy Charles on Their New Hair-Care Brand FashionUnitedMr Marvis surpasses 25-store target and eyes new European markets Field NotesMilan: 25,612 looks from 549 houses, now on the map WWDCamila Cabello Embellishes Paris Texas’ Lidia Mules with Rosary Anklet at the 27th Annual Latin Grammy Awards FashionistaESP Showroom Is Hiring A Wholesale Fashion Showroom & Sales Coordinator In New York, NY (Hybrid)FashionUnitedWho is David Epstein, Hugo Boss’s next CEO?Field NotesParis: 11,161 looks from 267 houses, now on the map WWDFlorence Pugh Wears Gothic Mourning Dress with Vivienne Westwood Pumps at an East of Eden FYC Event in Los Angeles Fashionista'Angels Among Us' Winner Solange Omon Shares Advice for Aspiring Models FashionUnitedRimowa and Maison Margiela release limited-edition travel set Field NotesNew York: 2,080 looks from 49 houses, now on the map WWDAlexander Skarsgård Glistens In Liquid Satin COS Men’s Shirt with Dusty Pink Cummerbund FashionistaMust Read: Smart Glasses Launch Reopens Debate Over Privacy, How Fashion Helped Protect Great Bear Rainforest FashionUnitedMade in France: Mélenchon wants to revive French textile industry Field NotesTokyo: 1,743 looks from 54 houses, now on the map WWDDrake’s Nocta Brand Will Debut a New Nike Technology on Its Next Sneaker Release FashionistaHow This Former Teacher Built a Business Selling and Archiving Vintage Luxury Fashion FashionUnitedBrand Radar: Kardo - the Indian brand turning artisanal textiles into modern menswear Field NotesCopenhagen: 1,455 looks from 51 houses, now on the map Field NotesLagos: 1,409 looks from 50 houses, now on the map Field NotesLondon: 1,164 looks from 33 houses, now on the map Field NotesBerlin: 985 looks from 41 houses, now on the map Field NotesSão Paulo: 287 looks from 8 houses, now on the map Field NotesMexico City: 267 looks from 9 houses, now on the map Field NotesFlorence: 137 looks from 3 houses, now on the map Field NotesMadrid: 131 looks from 3 houses, now on the map Field NotesSydney: 127 looks from 4 houses, now on the map Field NotesSeoul: 37 looks from 1 houses, now on the map

← The Designers

Founder and designer, Fdmtl

Gaku Tsuyoshi

Japanese

Japanese designer who founded a denim label in Tokyo in 2005 under the name Fundamental Agreement Luxury, later unified as FDMTL in 2015. He started it because he could not find the fits and washes he wanted. The brand is known for indigo-dyed denim made in Okayama, drawing on boro patchwork and sashiko stitching, and shows in Tokyo.

Houses

Founder and designer
Fdmtl
Since 2005 · about 21 years

Their runway, measured

31 looks in 1 show

Next to every runway we track, Gaku Tsuyoshi's looks are less neutral, cooler, less tonal and more textured.

Colours

Denim blue · 13.5× the average34%
Navy · 5.1× the average21%
Charcoal13%
Sky / powder blue · 9.2× the average10%
Silver7%
Grey5%
Black4%
White2%

Share of garment area across their looks; × is against every runway.

Colour and surface

Lightness40/100about average · all runways 39/100
Colour saturation12.9about average · all runways 12.6
Neutrals43%less neutral · all runways 60%
Warm hues1%cooler · all runways 70%
Tonal looks13%less tonal · all runways 33%
Colour-blockingΔE 37about average · all runways ΔE 35
Surface texture12.01more textured · all runways 5.06
Sheen0.067about average · all runways 0.065

What sets them apart

Shapes, fabrics and details they use far more often than other designers.

Sneakers 14.1×Patchwork print 13.5×Distressing 12.3×Denim 10.3×Patchwork 8.5×Utilitarian 8.2×Workwear / utility 7.2×Streetwear 6.6×

Silhouettes

Oversized 94%3.3×
Boxy 58%4.9×
Straight / tubular 29%
Inverted triangle / strong shoulder 26%1.4×
Draped 23%1.9×

Materials

Denim 84%10.3×
Cotton / poplin 32%
Knit 13%34% less
Jacquard / brocade 13%3.6×
Technical / nylon 13%1.8×

Details

Utility pockets 71%5.1×
Patchwork 48%8.5×
Piping / contrast stitching 42%2.6×
Distressing 35%12.3×
Lacing / ties 32%1.9×

Patterns

Patchwork print 26%13.5×
Abstract print 13%2.7×
Stripes 10%1.4×
Geometric 6%1.9×
Abstract stripe / brushstroke 6%3.6×

Mood

Relaxed 84%2.5×
Utilitarian 58%8.2×
Serene 42%2.0×
Austere 29%1.5×
Edgy 16%

Era references

1990s 3%57% less

From the AI tags on 31 of their looks. A designer is credited with a house's shows while they lead it; ×: how much more often than across all 25,892 measured looks.

Opening looks

The first looks of each collection

Collections

Fdmtl Fall/Winter 2026 — FdmtlFall/Winter 2026 · Tokyo · 31 looks