Founder and creative director, Labrum London
Foday Dumbuya
Born in Sierra Leone, Dumbuya spent his early years in Cyprus and moved to London at twelve. He studied menswear at London College of Fashion and founded Labrum London in 2014, combining West African references with British tailoring. He was in the BFC NEWGEN scheme and received the Queen Elizabeth II Award for British Design in 2023.
Houses
Their runway, measured
32 looks in 2 showsNext to every runway we track, Foday Dumbuya's looks are darker, more muted, cooler and more tonal.
Colours
- Black23%
- Charcoal15%
- Navy · 3.5× the average15%
- Grey8%
- White · 1.5× the average7%
- Denim blue · 2.5× the average6%
- Tan4%
- Forest green · 7.1× the average4%
Share of garment area across their looks; × is against every runway.
Colour and surface
- Lightness33/100darker · all runways 39/100
- Colour saturation9.4more muted · all runways 12.6
- Neutrals63%about average · all runways 60%
- Warm hues35%cooler · all runways 70%
- Tonal looks41%more tonal · all runways 33%
- Colour-blockingΔE 30less colour-blocked · all runways ΔE 35
- Surface texture5.43about average · all runways 5.06
- Sheen0.075shinier · all runways 0.065
What sets them apart
Shapes, fabrics and details they use far more often than other designers, with a glimpse of the looks: one from each collection that wore it most.
- Patchwork print8.2×Pattern
- Flip-flops / thongs8.1×Footwear
- Sneakers7.1×Footwear
- Utilitarian3.5×Mood
- Craft / artisanal3.4×Style
- Workwear / utility2.6×Style
- Powerful2.5×Mood
- Derbies / oxfords2.5×Footwear
Silhouettes
- Straight / tubular 84%2.1×
- Column 28%1.4×
- Oversized 22%
- Boxy 22%1.8×
- High-rise 13%32% less
Materials
- Wool / tailoring cloth 38%
- Cotton / poplin 31%
- Silk / satin 22%
- Denim 16%1.9×
- Jacquard / brocade 13%3.5×
Details
- Utility pockets 25%1.8×
- Hardware / studs / chains 25%1.9×
- Oversized collar 19%1.6×
- Slits 16%1.9×
- Piping / contrast stitching 16%
Patterns
- Patchwork print 16%8.2×
- Graphic / logo 13%5.6×
- Geometric 6%1.8×
- Tartan 6%19.6×
- Abstract print 3%34% less
Mood
- Elegant 53%
- Powerful 38%2.5×
- Relaxed 31%
- Austere 28%1.5×
- Serene 28%1.3×
Era references
- 1990s 6%
- 1970s 6%44% less
From the AI tags on 32 of their looks. A designer is credited with a house's shows while they lead it; ×: how much more often than across all 25,892 measured looks.
