Press

WWDMonica Barbaro Contrasts in Plunging Black and White Brandon Maxwell Gown for GQ’s Men of the Year Party FashionistaICYMI: Hanifa's Relaunch, Nuuly Is 'Spring Awakening''s Styling Partner & Amber Valletta and Teddy Charles on Their New Hair-Care Brand FashionUnitedMr Marvis surpasses 25-store target and eyes new European markets Field NotesMilan: 25,612 looks from 549 houses, now on the map WWDCamila Cabello Embellishes Paris Texas’ Lidia Mules with Rosary Anklet at the 27th Annual Latin Grammy Awards FashionistaESP Showroom Is Hiring A Wholesale Fashion Showroom & Sales Coordinator In New York, NY (Hybrid)FashionUnitedWho is David Epstein, Hugo Boss’s next CEO?Field NotesParis: 11,161 looks from 267 houses, now on the map WWDFlorence Pugh Wears Gothic Mourning Dress with Vivienne Westwood Pumps at an East of Eden FYC Event in Los Angeles Fashionista'Angels Among Us' Winner Solange Omon Shares Advice for Aspiring Models FashionUnitedRimowa and Maison Margiela release limited-edition travel set Field NotesNew York: 2,080 looks from 49 houses, now on the map WWDAlexander Skarsgård Glistens In Liquid Satin COS Men’s Shirt with Dusty Pink Cummerbund FashionistaMust Read: Smart Glasses Launch Reopens Debate Over Privacy, How Fashion Helped Protect Great Bear Rainforest FashionUnitedMade in France: Mélenchon wants to revive French textile industry Field NotesTokyo: 1,743 looks from 54 houses, now on the map WWDDrake’s Nocta Brand Will Debut a New Nike Technology on Its Next Sneaker Release FashionistaHow This Former Teacher Built a Business Selling and Archiving Vintage Luxury Fashion FashionUnitedBrand Radar: Kardo - the Indian brand turning artisanal textiles into modern menswear Field NotesCopenhagen: 1,455 looks from 51 houses, now on the map Field NotesLagos: 1,409 looks from 50 houses, now on the map Field NotesLondon: 1,164 looks from 33 houses, now on the map Field NotesBerlin: 985 looks from 41 houses, now on the map Field NotesSão Paulo: 287 looks from 8 houses, now on the map Field NotesMexico City: 267 looks from 9 houses, now on the map Field NotesFlorence: 137 looks from 3 houses, now on the map Field NotesMadrid: 131 looks from 3 houses, now on the map Field NotesSydney: 127 looks from 4 houses, now on the map Field NotesSeoul: 37 looks from 1 houses, now on the map

WWDMonica Barbaro Contrasts in Plunging Black and White Brandon Maxwell Gown for GQ’s Men of the Year Party FashionistaICYMI: Hanifa's Relaunch, Nuuly Is 'Spring Awakening''s Styling Partner & Amber Valletta and Teddy Charles on Their New Hair-Care Brand FashionUnitedMr Marvis surpasses 25-store target and eyes new European markets Field NotesMilan: 25,612 looks from 549 houses, now on the map WWDCamila Cabello Embellishes Paris Texas’ Lidia Mules with Rosary Anklet at the 27th Annual Latin Grammy Awards FashionistaESP Showroom Is Hiring A Wholesale Fashion Showroom & Sales Coordinator In New York, NY (Hybrid)FashionUnitedWho is David Epstein, Hugo Boss’s next CEO?Field NotesParis: 11,161 looks from 267 houses, now on the map WWDFlorence Pugh Wears Gothic Mourning Dress with Vivienne Westwood Pumps at an East of Eden FYC Event in Los Angeles Fashionista'Angels Among Us' Winner Solange Omon Shares Advice for Aspiring Models FashionUnitedRimowa and Maison Margiela release limited-edition travel set Field NotesNew York: 2,080 looks from 49 houses, now on the map WWDAlexander Skarsgård Glistens In Liquid Satin COS Men’s Shirt with Dusty Pink Cummerbund FashionistaMust Read: Smart Glasses Launch Reopens Debate Over Privacy, How Fashion Helped Protect Great Bear Rainforest FashionUnitedMade in France: Mélenchon wants to revive French textile industry Field NotesTokyo: 1,743 looks from 54 houses, now on the map WWDDrake’s Nocta Brand Will Debut a New Nike Technology on Its Next Sneaker Release FashionistaHow This Former Teacher Built a Business Selling and Archiving Vintage Luxury Fashion FashionUnitedBrand Radar: Kardo - the Indian brand turning artisanal textiles into modern menswear Field NotesCopenhagen: 1,455 looks from 51 houses, now on the map Field NotesLagos: 1,409 looks from 50 houses, now on the map Field NotesLondon: 1,164 looks from 33 houses, now on the map Field NotesBerlin: 985 looks from 41 houses, now on the map Field NotesSão Paulo: 287 looks from 8 houses, now on the map Field NotesMexico City: 267 looks from 9 houses, now on the map Field NotesFlorence: 137 looks from 3 houses, now on the map Field NotesMadrid: 131 looks from 3 houses, now on the map Field NotesSydney: 127 looks from 4 houses, now on the map Field NotesSeoul: 37 looks from 1 houses, now on the map

← The Designers

Founder and creative director, Erdem

Erdem Moralioglu

Canadian-British

Erdem Moralioglu was born in Montreal to a Turkish father and a British mother. He founded his London label, Erdem, in 2005 and remains its creative director. The house is known for womenswear built on prints, embroidery and lace, often drawing on historical figures, and it shows at London Fashion Week.

Houses

Founder and creative director
Erdem
Since 2005 · about 21 years

Their runway, measured

48 looks in 2 shows

Next to every runway we track, Erdem Moralioglu's looks are more muted, cooler, less tonal and more colour-blocked.

Colours

Black24%
Charcoal13%
Silver · 1.7× the average9%
Grey8%
Pink · 3.4× the average7%
White7%
Navy5%
Ivory / cream5%

Share of garment area across their looks; × is against every runway.

Colour and surface

Lightness42/100about average · all runways 39/100
Colour saturation10.5more muted · all runways 12.6
Neutrals67%about average · all runways 60%
Warm hues50%cooler · all runways 70%
Tonal looks21%less tonal · all runways 33%
Colour-blockingΔE 43more colour-blocked · all runways ΔE 35
Surface texture8.39more textured · all runways 5.06
Sheen0.108shinier · all runways 0.065

What sets them apart

Shapes, fabrics and details they use far more often than other designers.

Feathers 13.6×Victorian 11.7×Platforms 11.0×Corset / bustier 8.8×Feathered 6.9×1950s 6.1×Sequinned / beaded 5.3×Embroidery 5.3×

Silhouettes

Straight / tubular 36%
Hourglass / cinched waist 30%3.0×
Tiered / layered volume 28%4.1×
Column 23%
Oversized 23%

Materials

Silk / satin 55%2.3×
Sequins / paillettes 28%4.4×
Chiffon / organza / tulle 28%2.2×
Cotton / poplin 26%
Lace 21%3.1×

Details

Beading / crystals 57%4.9×
Embroidery 43%5.3×
Feathers 34%13.6×
Ruffles 30%4.1×
Bows 28%5.2×

Patterns

Floral 45%5.2×
Abstract print 9%1.8×
Patchwork print 6%3.3×
Ombre / gradient 4%1.9×
Abstract stripe / brushstroke 4%2.4×

Mood

Romantic 74%4.6×
Dramatic 47%3.5×
Whimsical 36%3.9×
Elegant 34%
Dark 32%2.5×

Era references

Victorian 36%11.7×
1950s 15%6.1×
2000s / y2k 4%2.1×
1920s 4%3.3×
1990s 2%72% less

From the AI tags on 47 of their looks. A designer is credited with a house's shows while they lead it; ×: how much more often than across all 25,892 measured looks.

Opening looks

The first looks of each collection

Collections

Erdem Spring/Summer 2027 — ErdemSpring/Summer 2027 · London · 44 looks

Erdem Fall/Winter 2026 — ErdemFall/Winter 2026 · London · 48 looks